Divine beauty lives on at Tirta Empul
Divine beauty lives on at Tirta Empul
By Alpha Savitri
TAMPAKSIRING, Bali (JP): Set amid beautiful leafy scenery, the Tirta Empul is a breath-taking sight for the first-time visitor. It boasts a cool climate and terraced rice fields, which are a welcome respite for visitors arriving from hot, dusty lowlands.
Tirta Empul's main attraction, however, is its compound of moss-covered ancient temples, bathing pools and fountains, which have drawn devotees for centuries.
It is located at the eastern point of Tampaksiring Palace, the vacation home of the late Sukarno, the country's first president. The glorious palace compound, with hundreds of tall pine trees, is visible from the site. It is said that Bung (older brother) Karno liked to stand at the top of the palace, watching the bathing pools, considered sacred by local Hindus. He built his own pool, which is now a public swimming pool.
There are four shower compounds at the southern part and one in the west. Cold, clear water continually flows into the stone reservoirs filled with fish.
The most peculiar feature of these fountains are the pallawa letters inscribed on the inner surfaces. In the past, Indian priests engraved the letters and sanctified them. In the eyes of the Hindus, these features differentiate the fountains from other wells.
Tirta Empul itself means "water with steam rising from it". According to mythology, the water was created by a god called Bhatara Indra to annul the influence of Mayadenawa, an arrogant king who declared himself to be a god. It is said that, during a battle against the Mayadenawa troops, many of Bhatara Indra's troops were killed because of poison created by Mayadenawa. Bhatara Indra then created a holy water to wash the deceased troops. The dead came back to life after being bathed in the water called Tirta Empul.
According to Dewa Beratha, an archaeology graduate from Tampaksiring, the temples have existed for a long time and its water is considered holy. According to an ancient inscription found at Manukaya village, Tampaksiring, in 884 on the Hindu Balinese calendar, or 962 A.D., the compound was renovated by King Sri Candrabaya Singha Warmadewa. At that time, imported fountains from India with the letter inscriptions on them were installed to sanctify the water.
The northern temple was constructed later, over a period of three years during the reign of King Masula Masuli, also known as Maheswara Maheswari, and was completed in 1250 A.D.. The physical form of the temple and fountains has remained unchanged over the centuries.
Hindu Balinese visit Tirta Empul not only on religious holidays but also on days considered special on the Hindu Balinese calendar. Those coming to carry out rituals are usually asking forgiveness for malicious things they have said, or those seeking freedom from nightmares. The fountain water is also believed to be capable of ridding curses or black magic and is used for special religious ceremonies for babies aged three months old.
Do not be surprised if a visit to the site includes the sight of a woman wearing only long fabric who plunges into the pool under the fountains. Or perhaps there will be someone going to the well compound after completing his prayers in the Temple of Tirta Empul. He will likely be carrying bottles which will be filled with water from the fountains. This water will be brought home for ceremonial means.
If a visit coincides with a Hindu Balinese holy day, there will be the strong smell of incense and flowers. But words are not enough to describe this place's mystery and beauty -- only a visit to Tirta Empul will allow you to understand its full magic.