Designer offers one-stop 'kebaya' haven
Sherry Samtani, Contributor/Jakarta
When Joy Tobing took top honors as Indonesian Idol on Saturday night, she stuck with tradition in a pretty turquoise kebaya.
The designer was Adjie Notonegoro who, along with Edward "Edo" Hutabarat, has taken a leading role in trying to keep the traditional blouse out front in changing fashion.
For not only is the kebaya associated with tradition and beauty, but to most Indonesian women today it's a piece of rather cumbersome attire. Retrieved from wardrobes for rare festivities and often an opportunity lost compared to the latest evening gowns, the blouse needs serious rejuvenation without losing its esthetic appeal.
One solution might be Tanti Setiadi's latest collection, Kebaya Exotica, offering a range of kebaya fit for any fashionista.
The collection was featured at the opening of her kebaya emporium Talisa House in South Jakarta. The store's concept is traditional but with a modern edge, a philosophy that translates into her designs as well.
Tanti, whose designs are worn by hosts on several popular TV variety shows, believes in "sophisticated simplicity," striving to bring the kebaya out of formal wear and into the streets. This season's playful colors -- rust tones, greens, purples -- and a greater inclination toward silk and chiffon might just be her answer.
Known for her experimentation, Tanti began flirting with one of Indonesia's oldest fashion statements in her later years. As a wife and mother of four children, it was only then she began to understand the flattery a kebaya pays to a woman's body, irrespective of size. With an entrepreneurial mind but the understanding of a fashion-conscious, she listed the needs her kebaya had to cater to -- comfort, convenience and elegance.
A few courses later, taken at Susan Budiarjo's fashion school, she knew how to bring her ideas to life.
In 1996, she launched her first collection in Semarang, Central Java, and achieved national acclaim. Eight years later, she boasts three concept stores, with plans for a fourth one at 2005's Sudirman Palace.
Tanti's Talisa houses, derived from the names of her three daughters Susmita, Elisa and Aishyah, aim to serve all the wants of a kebaya-wearing woman: accessories, jewelry and even evening wear to those who do not fancy the whole ensemble. It's a one- stop kebaya haven indeed.
This season's collection is no exception. Fusing silk, lace, tulle, chiffon and the staple batik, the creations are truly exotic. Expect to see beaded embroidery on traditional batik or embellished silk tunics, however, as Tanti believes the cutting and fitting should be personalized, so no one Talisa kebaya is alike.
Beauty has its price though, with the cheapest item being Rp 500,000 and the rest soaring through the roof. Tanti, naturally, believes her work justifies the price and claims she caters to the middle class in addition to the upper class.
In her opinion, she has got something for everyone, whether you are a minister's wife, celebrity or the general public. For an expatriate, she suggests throwing one of her tunics over a pair of jeans or wearing a camisole with her skirts to be a bit exotic.
While still not appropriate for the mall or teenagers, her creations will not just make appearances at weddings but will suit a 20-something just fine for a night on the town.
------------------------------------------ Talisa House: Jl. Cikajang 55, Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta Tel: 7260659 www.talisahouse.com ----------------------------------------------------