Designer Farah making a name for herself

Jock Paul, Contributor, Jakarta

After a long and trying journey, the first Indonesian to debut an haute couture collection in Paris has come home to what she finds to be an unexpectedly warm reaction.

"I am shocked that I am this well known here," said Farah Angsana, who returned last week for a short "research holiday" and to visit family.

She really shouldn't be: Since bursting onto the Paris scene with an Indonesian-flavored haute couture collection in Paris in January 2002, 31-year-old Farah has become known for skillfully mixing exotic ethnic motifs with cultured sensuality.

In July 2002 she presented her first men's collection in Paris. Her slinky, Indonesian-inspired collection stood out from the rest because of her unique ethnic flavor and leisurely attitude.

She used batik from around the archipelago, ikat and exotic Balinese accessories. The collection was dominated by Indonesian colors, from beige to warm browns, copper to gold, with touches of orange and green.

Only a couple of weeks ago, during the menswear collections in Paris, Farah sent male models down the catwalk in safari shirts and sarongs -- an unconventional but surprisingly casual and attractive combination.

When Farah was back in town, she was feted at the launch of a new book on being a professional model by former model and TV host Ratih Sanggarwati. After addressing the gathering, she was surrounded by journalists eager to know more about her success story.

Her professed shock at the media attention and congratulations of well-wishers ("people even came up to me in my hotel") does not hide the satisfaction that Farah feels after a difficult road to acceptance and confidence.

Born of mixed Indonesian and Chinese heritage in Medan, Farah said that from an early age she confronted difficulties, although she refuses to be more specific.

"I had a very confusing life. I went through tremendous pain, and was depressed," she said.

Her family moved to Singapore for a year when she was eight and then to Los Angeles.

To cope with the confusion of her adolescence, she drew on her Buddhist faith which, she said, stressing that, "it does not matter who you are, what you are, what color or race you are as long as you know how to place yourself in life".

At the age of 16, Farah left Los Angeles alone for London to gain the opportunity to live and learn in a more independent environment.

Above all, she said, she wanted to be happy, to be who she wanted to be and to find herself.

"When I was in London, I tried every single thing in life, good or bad, because you have to experience it," said Farah.

Still, she attributed the challenges and hardship she went through during this identification process as playing a key part in her success.

"That is how I achieved what I am today through all my hard times and my pain, and all the experiences I have been through," she said.

"The pain has created the new me."

She also credits studying design at the Central School of Fashion in London with teaching her the important technical aspects of fashion and allowing her creativity to blossom.

It was here that she learned how to choose materials, make patterns and construct garments. These skills are not required among all designers, but are crucial for couturiers, who must understand the quality of materials, luxury, design and service.

She loves traditional motifs and Indonesian clothes, because they are so feminine, and especially likes the kebaya (traditional blouse).

"My grandmother is peranakan, half Chinese, half Javanese, from Semarang, and I have always loved the way that she dresses, she has always inspired me," said Farah.

Her first men's collection also drew heavily from Indonesia, as she used ulos fabric from North Sumatra. She said she wanted to use the peci men's national cap but heard it would be disrespectful to Muslims.

While living outside of the country, she said she stayed in touch with the culture by visiting her family and friends here and by reading.

"I have returned this time to find my roots again, to learn and to explore and to tell the world that Indonesia is not as bad as people think," she said.

"I feel lucky that I am the first Indonesian and the only one to present my country. The competition is huge."

Farah now has her sights set on establishing the Farah Angsana brand as a global brand, for both women's designs and menswear. She said she was going about building this brand a little differently than normal.

"Most designers try to create a successful company, to build clients in one country. I am trying to build an internationally successful company and to build the brand as a global brand."

Although her brand is sold in Singapore, Japan and Hong Kong, and across Europe and North America, it is not yet distributed in Indonesia.

"I have never tested the water here. I am trying to get back to my roots and see how the whole reaction in Indonesia is."

She added that there were many good designers here and that it was more important to sell her Indonesian-influenced line abroad.

Her newest collection is about Indonesia, highlighting Bali in particular, and China.

"I did my show at the end of last month to mark the end of SARS. The beginning of the collection is about white, then the second part of the show I use more off tone colors to present Bali and highlight how much fun Bali can still be," she said.

The show finishes in red to represent China and its global emergence, she said.

The collection will debut in New York in September at international fashion week, and then move to Milan and Paris.

She is modest about her achievements, saying she does not consider herself a successful designer yet.

"The most important thing about being a fashion designer is to be disciplined and to be yourself and to have faith in yourself," Farah said.

"You have to be strong and believe in what you are doing, because along the way you will meet a lot of criticism."