Designer Carmanita draws on Irianese inspiration
Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
According to designer Carmanita, the trend for 2002 is all about deconstruction, something unfinished or incomplete.
And so she called her collection for next year, Carmanita 2002/Infinita.
"Infinita means never-ending. It's like art, which is unlimited -- and nature," she told a media conference before her show last week.
It is nature indeed that gave Carmanita inspiration for her upcoming collection. To be precise, themes from nature in eastern Indonesia, particularly Irian Jaya.
It was not by chance, though, as the theme is in line with the setting in the new gallery where Carmanita held her show, Gedung Dua8 in Kemang area, South Jakarta.
Recently opened, the five-story gallery, allocates a larger part of its space to present the culture of the Kamoro and Asmat tribes of Irian Jaya.
"Dea Sudarman, who came up with the idea of the gallery, asked me to do the show there. And, I said yes. It was very hectic and chaotic because I only had four months to prepare. But usually, if it's not chaotic it won't materialize," Carmanita said.
The show last week started around 9 p.m. The catwalk was set in the front yard and continued through to the gallery's entrance.
Several figures from the fashion world came to see the show, including fellow designers Edward Hutabarat and Susi Hedijanto. Actress Christine Hakim and several models (not to mention fashion psychic Wak Ujang) were also evident.
The show, directed by video director/photographer Jay Subiyakto, was divided into three sequences: in the glass-fronted front room, on the catwalk and at the amphitheater.
With a smoke "bomb" clouding the air, the show started as the white cloth was pulled from the glass window and we could see the models posing between several mannequins.
The models then walked out of the gallery and onto the catwalk. Surprise, surprise. The first model to appear was rising designer Oscar Lawalatta.
Wearing a long straight wig with a bang, he looked gorgeous in blue cloth and pants. And I really mean gorgeous.
The collection presented that night was all about natural earthy colors and pastels, nothing bright here.
The motif focuses on naive print and cartoon-like images, such as faces of people, skulls, hand and animal prints.
"I got the inspiration from cave paintings. I've never seen the caves in Irian, though. I've been to Irian but not to the caves. But I saw some 50 photo albums of pictures inside the caves," Carmanita said.
Besides the characters, she also used flower, leaf and fern motifs.
Carmanita also played with colors, with dying and air brush techniques. "I found such a deep wisdom in my devotion to processing color, motifs and weaving. A wisdom which makes me respect diversity," she wrote in the catalog.
The materials used mostly were Lycra, denim and also woven material. Blue denim material was dyed or glittered.
The style is mostly casual, with tight blouses, mini skirts, tube tops, sarongs, denim pants and jackets, legging pants, and also sneakers.
The line is asymmetrical, with one-sleeved blouses and gowns, and asymmetrical skirts.
For accent, Carmanita also put some ruffles on the neckline and pleats. Lace, brocade and ribbons were also used to embellish.
Lace was put around the neckline of the Lycra top, while ribbons were put on the sneakers.
The show ended with fireworks and Carmanita, along with the models, accompanied the guests on a tour of the gallery. It was an interesting show, the designs were inspired and trendy, and we also got to focus on the art of an often forgotten region.
But will they make it on to the backs of consumers? Perhaps as ultra-casual or beach wear, but I still prefer my good ol' batik.