Dapur Babah: A restaurant-cum-living museum

Susanna Tjokro, Contributor, Jakarta

As soon as I stepped through the door, I was seized by fascination. The restaurant Dapur Babah attracts the eyes with its distinctive Peranakan charm and real antiques. The old wooden floor, antique furniture, old photographs and other items from a bygone era give the place a nostalgic feel.

Personally, I feel Dapur Babah is designed more as a home than a restaurant (despite some unusual coconut tree stems in the Tao room). The beautiful tearoom may make you feel as if you were sipping a cup of tea in an old house. In addition to selling food, the restaurant also sells its ambience.

Dapur Babah showcases a world-class collection of antiques. The old Babah gamelan instrument, vintage Tanka or Tibetan religious paintings, as well as room separators from the Ming dynasty are among its priceless collection.

A lot of effort has been put into bringing the Peranakan charm back to life. The owner replaced the modern ceramic tiles with an antique wooden floor. The antique door and furniture also add historical interest to Dapur Baba's interior.

Opened on Dec. 5, Dapur Babah has been pulling in the dinner crowd. This restaurant is another creation of Anhar Setjadibrata, the owner-cum-designer of the exquisite Tugu Hotels. Dapur Babah presents the history of the Oei family, an ethnic Chinese family who lived in Java. The restaurant is located on Jl. Veteran, formerly known as Citadel Weg, a prestigious area in Dutch colonial times.

Dapur Babah offers traditional Peranakan cuisine. Thumbing through the menu, you will also see Chinese, Javanese and Dutch dishes.

"After all, the Babah culture in Java is simply a culture that developed from the gradual fusion of three cultures living side by side -- Chinese, local Javanese and Dutch," said the owner, Wedya Julianti.

The Dutch-style salad Huzaren Sla is priced at Rp 35,000. Main courses like Nasi Tjampoer Babah (rice served with marinated beef, chicken, fried shrimp) are Rp 50,000, while Nasi Rawon Special Tugu (Malang-style beef soup served with rice, prawn crackers and salted duck eggs) costs Rp 45,000. Es Dawet (Rp 20,000), Wedang Ronde (Rp 25,000) and various homemade ice creams (red bean, green tea, chocolate, vanilla, coffee, all priced at Rp 45,000) are among the dessert choices.

Dapur Babah has several dining rooms: the VOC (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie), Tao, Kwan Yin (Goddess of Mercy), Megawati's room, Angela Oei's room and The Garden. Drop by the back of the restaurant, where you will find a semi-open terrace that resembles the kitchen of the Oei family, complete with old Chinese glass lanterns and kitchen utensils.

The VOC room is decorated with items from the Dutch colonial era, like swords, pictures of Dutch officials and a bulky VOC emblem from the 17th century.

Tao presents the bright active male principle of the universe, hence bold colors dominate in the Tao room. Antiques from Tibet, India, Cambodia and Indonesia decorate the room. There is a Tibetan protector god, Khmer Buddha, statues from India, several ancient Tanka (Tibetan religious paintings) of Buddha Shakyamuni as well as some old coconut tree stems.

The Tao room is the right place to broaden your circle of friends, as you can say hello to strangers sitting next to you at the long, sleek red communal table. If privacy is what you're after, you can choose one of the individual tables in the room.

In striking contrast, the room of Kwan Yin (Goddess of Mercy) is designed to be sort of a "sanctuary" for the senses. The Kwan Yin room presents the dark, not active, female principle of the universe. Red and black dominate this room. An ancient statue of Kwan Yin will watch over you as you dine at the long, sleek communal table.

Megawati's room (yes, it's named after the former president) is a perfect place for small gatherings and you may feel as if you're at a friend's house instead of a restaurant.

Angela's room is a small, pretty room with casual ambience. It has feminine touches with splashes of pink. A giant black-and- white photo of Angela Oei adorns one dark blue wall. Angela was the favorite concubine of Oei Tiong Ham, a well-known sugar baron.

If you need some fresh air, The Garden is a perfect choice. While waiting for your food, feast your eyes on the old photos and get a fascinating glimpse of life in a bygone era.

All in all, even if you think the cuisine is not extraordinary, chances are you will still be amazed by the old- world charm of the restaurant. Indeed, Dapur Babah is a beautiful property with an abundance of artwork scattered throughout. So, grab a seat, drink in the sights and, of course, taste the food.

Tao & Dapur Babah
Jl. Veteran I / 18 - 19
Jakarta Pusat
Tel: 385 5653
Opening hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily