'Cultural couture' spins magic of Silk Road

'Cultural couture' spins magic of Silk Road

Drawing upon the grandeur of the Silk Road, Oscar Lawalata presented his 2005 collection for men and women, "The Darkroom of the Maharadja", in a first-ever double show on Friday evening at Lan Na Thai-Hazara at Face and at Fashion Bar in EX-Plaza, Central Jakarta.

The new collection, as is characteristic of Oscar's designs, has its roots here at home, in his passion for traditional Indonesian textiles, natural dyes and ethnic culture.

"Initially, I wanted to pull out the uniqueness of Indonesian fabrics within the context of other traditional fabrics," he said, and in so doing, ended up traveling back to the heyday of trade in Asia, from the kingdoms of Arabia through the Orient and down to Southeast Asia -- and the concept "became exotic".

From embroidered Middle Eastern brocade to Indian cotton, from cheong-sam satin to antique batik,Darkroom of the Maharadja" is a fashion journey along the fabled trade route of yore, featuring tunics, pantaloons and flowing skirts offset by tailored jackets and bustiers in deep blues, greens, bronzes, reds and black -- but also silk chiffon in matte shades of sage, peach, rose and lavender.

"I would call the color scheme `natural stone hues,'" said Oscar. And in keeping with this, the main accessories are necklaces, chokers, earrings and belts from Tibet and Afghanistan, with turquoise, coral, onyx, quartz, agate and colored glass set in antique silver -- all selected from a survey trip through India and China, as were the various fabrics.

According to Oscar, "darkroom" refers to a private boudoir in the palace of a maharaja, where they would hold intimate gatherings and lavish parties. It is a "mysterious" realm, he said, as it was typically curtained and only select guests had the privilege of entry.

The solo show at Lan Na Thai was similarly an intimate affair -- in contrast to Oscar's show last year at Balai Sarbini, which hosted 1,000 guests -- a kind of "private" viewing for the designer's friends, family and special customers.Na Thai has an environment, an interior that suggests intimacy, and with Hazara now in the same venue, the Indian and Thai influences made a perfect backdrop for the collection."

The original interior of the restaurant was accentuated with lengths of crimson chiffon along the ceiling and entryways, and low tables were placed upon Persian and Middle Eastern carpets that covered the floor from wall to wall. The scent of fresh jasmine buds and incense rose to greet guests, along with the seductive tunes of Indian fusion music.

"The interior concept was based on the theme of Oscar's collection and enhances the original ambiance at Lan Na Thai," said freelance production designer and choreographer Inet Leimena, who sported an olive-green Oscar shirt in Indian cotton with gold embroidered hems.

Three cocktail dresses in red, black and white opened the evening in a nod to key sponsor Nokia and its 7260/7270/7280 Fashion series, the fabric patterned in techno motifs designed by Oscar.

As waiters wove through the packed audience -- 100 invitations were sent out, but Lan Na Thai manager Steve Bianchin estimates 350 guests showed -- bearing brass trays of Thai chicken pandan, samosas, spring rolls and prawn cakes, models appeared and struck a pose on circular stages in every room of the two-story restaurant.

The menswear collection comprised tailored jackets in printed velvet and faux snakeskin with scabbard and spearhead applique, as well as long dress-shirts in Indian cotton and silk with embroidered hems. Coupled with hotpants and crocodile-leather loafers -- also by Oscar, as was a tie-dye scarf in navy, burgundy, brown and white -- the effect was one of contrasts between the concealed and the revealed.

Asymmetrical, draped full skirts flowed in the women's collection below cropped jackets fringed with fox fur and intricate beadwork in natural stones and crystal rhinestones. One of the pieces was a Xena-like dress with a miniskirt made of tassels.

Silk chiffon was the fabric of choice for tunic dresses that draped off the shoulders from a halter collar, sometimes paired with an inner camisole. While the applique are bold and exotic, the dresses are cut to flatter any figure -- while leaving room for the imagination.

Oscar's delicate touch is most evident in the details -- from unfinished hems to draped pockets, from piped embroidery of phoenix and paisley motifs to matching shoes and beaded purses.

"Oscar's designs are very sophisticated," said theater actress Jajang C. Noer, and that half of the collection was perhaps too exotic for her tastes. "They're too surreal (for me)."

"The Darkroom of the Maharadja" is Oscar's expression of Shehrazade and The Arabian Nights, an alternative style that evokes the rich fabrics and allure of the Silk Road.

"I have more confidence with this collection," he said. Then added, "Oh, I don't know."

His 2005 collection again defies categorization -- the very characteristic that established Oscar with his debut show. "I would call this 'cultural couture'. Maybe."

As Oscar follows his vision to elevate traditional and ethnic textiles to the sphere of contemporary fashion, he underlines that, in the end, it's all about "being yourself".

And culture is clearly an inherent part of style and identity: "(Handmade fabrics are) our heritage. We cannot forget our culture."

By appointment: PT Oscaroscar (studio/workshop), Jl. Laksana I, No. 5A, Blok S, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta 12180, T (021) 7244171, 7266791, F (021) 7244439. oscaroscar_lt@yahoo.com