Classic jewelry designs showcase Indonesian talent
Classic jewelry designs showcase Indonesian talent
By Parvathi Nayar Narayan
JAKARTA (JP): "Love Indonesian products" was the theme of a
recent show of jewelry designed by Een Hendratmo and promoted by
Martha Tilaar. The show illustrated a combination of stones and
designs emanating from Indonesian culture.
The motto, which is an idea that has become popular in
Indonesia, encouraged Indonesians to appreciate and buy products
made in their own country. The exhibition and sale of gold and
silver jewelry set with both precious and semiprecious stones was
held at Puri Ayu Martha Tilaar on Feb.9.
The highlight of the afternoon was a fashion show with models
in chic gowns elegantly draped with gauze scarves or fringed
stoles -- the perfect foil for the glittering jewelry. The black
gowns designed by Ramli had the right touch of detail with a
panel embroidered in sequins, a subdued flash of gold, and a
worked border. They were interesting without detracting from the
real stuff on show -- the jewelry.
Mainly in sets of a necklace with matching earrings and a
ring, the jewelry was some times accompanied by a bracelet. Some
of the pieces were exceptionally delicate, the gold worked so
fine that the skin of the wearer was visible underneath.
In others the gold was worked more solidly, and heavily
encrusted with gems. Others were pendants strung on beads,
chokers and brooches. There were a few pieces with a modern
flavor, some really unusual ones with large uneven pearls. There
were also interesting pieces using blue topaz, carved coral and
deep puce amethyst. The finale was an exceptionally corpulent
piece, a heavily worked necklace with more than 1200 diamonds. It
was perhaps too ornate for modern taste, but the craftsmanship
was excellent.
About 60 pieces were displayed, some new, some borrowed from
old customers for the show. This is Een Hendratmo's first major
public exhibition since she established her company, Mizula
Jewellery, in 1980. Before discovering her vocation, Hendratmo
tried her hand at many things, as varied as computers, mechanical
engineering and sales. Her earliest inspiration was from her
father.
Her father was an artist and jewelry collector. He would
explain to his young daughter what the shiny green stone she
admired was, and the formula for gold. Hendratmo was always sure
of her ability to draw. Thus the knowledge she sought was more
about the technical aspects of jewelry. She acquired an
understanding of the value and nature of precious stones. Most
importantly, she learned the knack of explaining to the craftsmen
how exactly she wanted her designs to be translated into metal
and gemstones.
Every piece of jewelry is exclusively designed for one
specific client. Hendratmo aims to harmoniously bring together
the design, the stones and the wearer. That each design is unique
is one of her selling points. Her "one design for one piece"
ratio is for gold jewelry. In silver the ratio is one to five,
for accessories one to ten. Over the years themes have come up in
her designs, motifs such as the spire of a mosque or a flower.
Her favorite gem is the yellow diamond. "Rare stones the color
of champagne," she says. Hendratmo also advises her clients on
what stones would suit them best. For instance, she feels a honey
or wheaten complexion sets off white diamonds the best. For very
fair skin, she would recommend colored stones, say a blood red
ruby set in tiny diamonds.
Her biggest problem with customers is when they insist on
something she knows will not translate well. She has customers
both from Indonesia and beyond. Hendratmo prefers classical
designs and works on the premise that one can get tired of mere
prettiness, but rarely tires of classic beauty. She draws
inspiration from classical Indonesian styles like traditional
Javanese jewelry.
The limited guests included Nina Akbar Tanjung, the wife of
the minister of housing, Emil Salim, the wife of a former
minister of population and environment, and Nelli Adam Malik, the
wife of a former vice president.
A member of the audience said "She (Hendratmo) is very brave
to start with a show of this size, but she has talent. I saw her
earlier work at the Arya Duta. Her designs were rather heavy
then, but she has improved a lot."
The venue, the Puri Ayu Martha Tilaar shop, was the brainchild
of Martha Tilaar and sells traditional skin and hair care
treatments, makeup, and traditional clothes and accessories.
Tilaar wants to educate women about beauty care and beautiful
products from Indonesia.
Tilaar plans to continue her program of promoting Indonesian
talent, and sees her shop as the best venue.
"Indonesians appreciate products from Japan and Paris, but now
we have to concentrate on our culture, our products," she
insists.
Although the main objective of the show was to show and sell
the jewelry, another stated objective was to showcase the
importance of focusing on the talent available in Indonesia.
The synergy between Hendratmo and Tilaar proves that to see a
glittering collection of jewelry on show, one does not have to
visit Tiffany or Cartier showrooms overseas.