Cirebon court servants: Old and toothless but still agile

CIREBON, West Java (JP): The Abdi dalem (court retainers) of Kasepuhan are surely underpaid and true devotion to their calling is all that keeps them going. Most of them are in their 70s and fragile-looking but they retain their amazing vitality.

Their secret for maintaining health has always elicited the curiosity of many. Abdi dalem have special diets and do lots of exercises to keep in shape. So don't be surprised to see elderly men -- some of them toothless and hunchbacked -- working energetically.

Their routine consists of taking a bath at midnight and staying awake until dawn -- something that may sound odd to ordinary people.

They also regularly take jamu (herbal medicine), honey, pepper and calamondin which they believe are good for warding off disease. Besides, they also believe in the power of prayer for their physical and spiritual health.

"I wake up at 2 a.m. to say midnight prayers and go to sleep again until morning prayer at 3:30 a.m. I then work out, walking around my house as advised by the Sultan (the Kasepuhan Sultan Sepuh XIII PRA Maulana Pakuningrat)," said Saryan, an abdi dalem.

Following the tradition handed down generation after generation, Saryan fasts eight days ahead of Maulud, the birthday of Prophet Muhammad. During those days, he will sleep only an hour a day.

The palace retainers' working hours are between 8 a.m. and 4 p.m.

In general their jobs include cleaning the palace area twice a day, preparing offerings every day, washing the heirlooms every 1 Suro (Islamic-Javanese New Year), and escorting guests who wish to tour the palace complex.

Palace heirlooms are considered sacred and they treat them accordingly.

Every Friday Kliwon (which occurs once in every 35 days by the Javanese calendar), the palace holds a ritual for its heirlooms, which include ancient chariots and weapons. Offerings include bekakak ayam (whole-baked chicken), roasted chili sauce and seven kinds of flowers.

During the ceremony, the abdi dalem wear their traditional uniforms.

Also on Friday Kliwon, the retainers should prepare offerings for the supernatural creatures that are believed to reside in every corner of the palace complex.

The offerings, which should include small rice cones, salted fish, onions, chili, cigarettes and betel vines, are then placed in the corners.

"The purpose is to ensure that the creatures do not disturb human beings," said Saryan.

When somebody in the palace complex suddenly falls into a trance for no apparent reason, this could well be an indication that the spirits are not happy with the offerings -- or so the abdi dalem believe. (ind)