Change and all, Malang still a breath of fresh air

Maria Endah Hulupi, The Jakarta Post, Malang, East Java

"Malang is a city surrounded by volcanoes with beautiful scenery, and fresh, cool air."

That would likely be the description of Malang from those who lived there or spent time in the city during the 1960s.

However, the city they knew some 40 years ago is not the same place that exists today. Malang has developed into quite a busy and crowded town, with all the attendant problems, including piles of garbage along the Brantas River and in other parts of this East Javanese city.

Nevertheless, there are still traces of what made Malang, at one time, a peaceful retreat for residents of neighboring Surabaya.

The main streets in Malang are lined with large trees, under whose shade vendors hawk their wares, including fresh Malang apples, yet another reminder that Malang remains famous for its apple orchards.

The town's flower and bird markets are a riot of color and noise, with stall after stall of flowering plants and exotic, multi-hued birds lining the streets.

Aside from the more modern buses and public minivans, becak (pedicabs) and delman (traditional two-wheel buggies) are still used as public transportation in Malang. However, because of the cool, comfortable climate, many locals and visitors choose to walk to their destination.

It is easy to walk around Malang because it is a small town, with most of the popular landmarks, old edifices and other popular establishments located in close proximity to one another.

Public life in Malang is centered around the town square, or alun-alun. In the evenings, the area is crowded with street vendors selling various goods, including toys, inexpensive clothes, music cassettes and VCDs. There are also dozens of makeshift kiosks selling various traditional foods and snacks.

The town square provides residents and visitors a place to go and socialize, free of charge.

"This is where people from the middle and lower economic classes come for nighttime amusement -- with their families or friends. There is another place similar to this, Pasar Senggol," said former Malang resident Agus Pamulang, who now lives in Jakarta. He was back in his hometown on vacation.

Not far from the alun-alun is the city's most popular restaurant, and has been since the Dutch era, Toko Oen. "We have maintained the colonial atmosphere and the old recipes," said one of the waiters.

The restaurant offers Dutch, Chinese and Indonesian dishes. Its old-fashioned vanilla, strawberry and chocolate ice creams are deliciously light.

If you want to try some local favorites, try some Cwi Mie (similar to Chinese noodles, topped with shredded chicken or beef), Bakwan Malang, Kripik Tempe (fried soy bean cake snack) or Pisang Ledre (crispy banana snack). These dishes and snacks can be found at numerous restaurants and stores in the city.

In northern Malang one can visit the 14-hectare family recreation park Selekta, which opened in Jan. 1950. Entrance to the park costs Rp 4,250, and once inside people can visit an apple orchard, have a swim in the pool, dine at the restaurant or stay at the Selekta Hotel.

"Flower, fruits and vegetable gardens are being set up in the complex. Pedestrian access is also being arranged in the apple orchard, so after touring the orchard people can have a cool dip in the pool," said a hotel employee, Suwarto.

Other places of interest in and around Malang are the eighth- century Singosari Temple built in honor of king Kertanegara, the ancient temples and sacred tombs of Mount Kawi, the pottery center in Dinoyo and the Wendit recreation park, where visitors can watch local monkeys at play or go for a swim.

A practical way to tour Malang and the surrounding area is by getting a taxi or a rental car in Surabaya, which is about a 90- minute drive from Malang.