Buying back history: Cartier exhibit in Jakarta
Buying back history: Cartier exhibit in Jakarta
By Dini S. Djalal
JAKARTA (JP): The treasures inspired by the travels of infamous jewelers the Cartier brothers have returned to the continent of their inspiration.
"Cartier and the Magic Spell of the Orient", an exhibition of antique jewels and objects, opened Tuesday in Jakarta after showing in Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Hong Kong. The exhibit will be at the Grand Hyatt Ballroom until this afternoon.
Throughout the early twentieth century, brothers Louis, Jacques, and Pierre Cartier journeyed through the fabled "Orient" mining for inspiration. They found fine pearls in the Persian Gulf, jade in China, and carved beads in India. More importantly, they incorporated Asian designs, such as dragon motifs and sweeping landscapes, and popularized them in Europe.
The Cartier brothers were legends in their time, but Cartier Inc. has since become an institution, producing, among other things, perfume, watches, and pens. In 1993, Cartier joined the Vendome Luxury Group, a consortium of luxury-goods manufacturers including Montblanc, Alfred Dunhill, and Karl Lagerfeld.
Cartier is now about big business, but its current management wants the legend to prevail.
"There are many reasons why we are holding this exhibit, but most importantly we want to tell the rich history of Cartier," said Irwan Mussry, managing director of Centralindo Perkasa International, Cartier's distributor in Indonesia. "We're not a fashion house. We're more interested in history," said Irwan.
History has provided an ambitious task. The exhibit is the result of two decades of scouring through antique fairs and auctions for these rare pieces, dating from 1908 to 1948. The costs of repurchasing Cartier collectibles also prove their worth: a 19th century Chinese-inspired mystery clock in agate and diamonds was bought back for US$4 million. The entire exhibit of 95 pieces is valued at Rp 30 billion ($14 million).
Considering the exquisite artwork involved it's a modest sum. Many pieces are discreetly accentuated with diamonds and other jewels, featuring intricate lacquerwork or engravings. A few cigarette and vanity cases showcase flawless miniature Persian style paintings. A lighter smaller than a finger (circa 1939) is painstakingly painted in an Indian bird motif.
The attention to detail is the norm. Cartier was described by England's King Edward VII as the "King of Jewelers and the jewelers to Kings". However, Cartier designs retain a quiet elegance unbefitting of their grandiose clientele. Both large and small, opulent and simple pieces, are showcased in the exhibit.
For example, the smooth surface of a massive cabochon jade is a ring's predominant feature, while a tiny but ornate lion-shaped paperweight is set in ivory, sapphires and other jewels.
This handcrafted tradition remains today, says Irwan Mussry. "Seiko watches makes more in one day than we do in a year", said Irwan. Yet while Cartier's prestige is uncontested, its products are not as exclusive as they once were. Cartier's first boutique opened on Wednesday in Plaza Indonesia, following other openings in Asia, proving Cartier's expanding reach.