Buying back history: Cartier exhibit in Jakarta
Buying back history: Cartier exhibit in Jakarta
By Dini S. Djalal
JAKARTA (JP): The treasures inspired by the travels of
infamous jewelers the Cartier brothers have returned to the
continent of their inspiration.
"Cartier and the Magic Spell of the Orient", an exhibition of
antique jewels and objects, opened Tuesday in Jakarta after
showing in Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Hong Kong. The exhibit
will be at the Grand Hyatt Ballroom until this afternoon.
Throughout the early twentieth century, brothers Louis,
Jacques, and Pierre Cartier journeyed through the fabled "Orient"
mining for inspiration. They found fine pearls in the Persian
Gulf, jade in China, and carved beads in India. More importantly,
they incorporated Asian designs, such as dragon motifs and
sweeping landscapes, and popularized them in Europe.
The Cartier brothers were legends in their time, but Cartier
Inc. has since become an institution, producing, among other
things, perfume, watches, and pens. In 1993, Cartier joined the
Vendome Luxury Group, a consortium of luxury-goods manufacturers
including Montblanc, Alfred Dunhill, and Karl Lagerfeld.
Cartier is now about big business, but its current management
wants the legend to prevail.
"There are many reasons why we are holding this exhibit, but
most importantly we want to tell the rich history of Cartier,"
said Irwan Mussry, managing director of Centralindo Perkasa
International, Cartier's distributor in Indonesia. "We're not a
fashion house. We're more interested in history," said Irwan.
History has provided an ambitious task. The exhibit is the
result of two decades of scouring through antique fairs and
auctions for these rare pieces, dating from 1908 to 1948. The
costs of repurchasing Cartier collectibles also prove their
worth: a 19th century Chinese-inspired mystery clock in agate and
diamonds was bought back for US$4 million. The entire exhibit of
95 pieces is valued at Rp 30 billion ($14 million).
Considering the exquisite artwork involved it's a modest sum.
Many pieces are discreetly accentuated with diamonds and other
jewels, featuring intricate lacquerwork or engravings. A few
cigarette and vanity cases showcase flawless miniature Persian
style paintings. A lighter smaller than a finger (circa 1939) is
painstakingly painted in an Indian bird motif.
The attention to detail is the norm. Cartier was described by
England's King Edward VII as the "King of Jewelers and the
jewelers to Kings". However, Cartier designs retain a quiet
elegance unbefitting of their grandiose clientele. Both large and
small, opulent and simple pieces, are showcased in the exhibit.
For example, the smooth surface of a massive cabochon jade is
a ring's predominant feature, while a tiny but ornate lion-shaped
paperweight is set in ivory, sapphires and other jewels.
This handcrafted tradition remains today, says Irwan Mussry.
"Seiko watches makes more in one day than we do in a year", said
Irwan. Yet while Cartier's prestige is uncontested, its products
are not as exclusive as they once were. Cartier's first boutique
opened on Wednesday in Plaza Indonesia, following other openings
in Asia, proving Cartier's expanding reach.