Buyat under spotlight, temporarily

Jongker Rumteh and Muninggar Sri Saraswati, Buyat Bay, North Sulawesi

It has been unusually hectic for people living around Buyat Bay in North Sulawesi over the past few weeks.

Ministers and legislators have descended upon the remote village of Buyat Pantai, to visit their shabby houses, most of which have no running water or electricity.

A number of villagers say they are pleased that such distinguished guests from Jakarta and Manado are visiting, as it has prompted local authorities to rebuild village infrastructure.

"They repaired the roads and put waste bins in our village. They also planted some coconut trees along the coast," a fisherman said.

During the press visit to the bay -- which was organized by PT Newmont Minahasa Raya (NMR) recently -- several workers were seen installing a waste bin and upgrading the main access to the village, also known as Lakban, some 120 kilometers east of the provincial capital of Manado.

The coast looks clean and beautiful, and the coconut trees sway gently in the breeze. A number of children, some of whom display skin ailments, are playing.

"We do appreciate the visit of all these important people. But, will it change our lives?" another fisherman, Chris, said.

Some 60 families here have come under the media spotlight since four villagers reported PT Newmont Minahasa Raya mining firm to the police for alleged metal pollution, which they claim caused them to suffer numerous diseases.

Despite the media hype, Chris, 46, says life is not as comfortable as it was 10 years ago.

"More people are suffering strange diseases, while we cannot see the doctor for treatment as we don't have any money. It's not easy to catch a lot of fish now," he said.

He recalled that 10 years ago he had been able to catch hundreds of kilograms of healthy fish within hours.

"Now, I can only bring home dozens of kilos after hours of fishing. Worse, some of the fish can't be sold as they are obviously diseased. People reject them," he said.

Many of the fish, particularly kerapu (grouper), swell up. If a swollen fish is cut, it secretes bad-smelling black liquid.

A researcher with the Indonesian Institute of Sciences (LIPI) said the lumps were most likely tumors, which are usually found in fish living in polluted waters.

Environment minister Nabiel Makarim, who has repeatedly said there is no metal pollution in the bay, refused to eat the swollen fish offered by locals during his visit to the village last week.

Although he can no longer send his two children to school, Chris says he thanks God for his family's survival.

"My wife has a skin condition that effects her legs, while I often suffer terrible headaches. But it's not a strange disease," he said.

By "strange disease" Chris meant the lumps that some of his neighbors have on their bodies.

Arif, another villager, suspects the decline in fish and the spread of the "disease" has something to do with PT NMR, which disposes of tailings in Buyat Bay.

"Because, all the incidents occurred after the company came here," he argued.

Currently, most of the residents living around the bay are relying on food aid from the North Sulawesi administration.

But Chris said the people could not depend on aid forever.

"They visit us and donate some aid packages, or provide free medication. But as soon as they leave, we must pay for everything.

"We need to return to fishing and catch as many fish as possible. Could the visitors do something to make that happen?" he said.