BRIN Debunks Myths, Reveals Frankincense Potential as World-Class Perfume Ingredient
The National Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN) is dispelling the mystical perceptions long associated with frankincense by extracting the resin of this endemic plant into high-quality essential oils, suitable as a base note for premium, world-class perfumes.
Aswandi, a researcher at BRIN’s Centre for Applied Botany Research, explained in a recent podcast that frankincense essential oil possesses a bold, elegant, amber-type aroma, far removed from any eerie connotations. He noted that the scent produced through the extraction process differs significantly from the raw frankincense burnt for ritualistic purposes. “Even if we were to visit a frankincense forest ourselves, that ‘scary’ aroma is non-existent,” Aswandi stated.
The formulation involves blending frankincense with other Indonesian essential oils, such as patchouli, ylang-ylang, jasmine, and citrus extracts, to create a luxurious and refreshing aromatic profile. Aswandi revealed that the phytochemical content in Indonesian frankincense possesses unique characteristics not found in species from other countries. The abundance of compounds such as cinnamin, benzyl benzoate, and vanillin gives Indonesian frankincense immense potential to dominate the global market.
Currently, Indonesia remains stuck as an exporter of raw frankincense resin to 60 countries, with volumes reaching between 5,000 and 6,000 tonnes per year. Beyond fragrance creation, Aswandi mentioned that this frankincense-based perfume innovation also offers aromatherapy benefits, such as calming the mind, enhancing focus, and aiding skin regeneration.
Consequently, BRIN is opening wide doors for collaboration with MSMEs (Micro, Small, and Medium Enterprises) across Indonesia to utilise the patents and purification technology for frankincense. This step is considered crucial to reducing the dominance of synthetic perfume products from abroad. “We have patchouli, citronella, and frankincense in our own backyards; why not produce our own perfumes and aromatherapy? By doing so, we can reduce our dependence on imports while fostering a creative economy,” Aswandi concluded.