Bordeaux fellowship welcomes Jakarta wine lovers

Chisato Hara, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Bordeaux, the benchmark of fine wines around the world, has recognized local wine enthusiasts among its "ambassadors" with the establishment on Dec. 1 of the Jakarta chapter of the Commanderie de Bordeaux.

Falling under the non-profit French federation, the Grand Conseil du Vin de Bordeaux (GCVB), the equally non-profit Commanderies de Bordeaux, which represents consumers, are part of a broad fellowship of wine-makers, traders and other industry players that are committed to spreading knowledge and sharing appreciation of all Bordeaux appellations in France and abroad.

Membership is by invitation only, and to date, 5,000 active members of these "embassies of Bordeaux wine" exist around the world.

The Jakarta chapter is the 67th in the world, and one of only two commanderies to be established in Asia within the past 20 years, following the opening of the Shanghai chapter in late November. The total number of Commanderies in Asia now numbers seven, including those in Fukuoka -- Bordeaux's sister city -- Hong Kong and Singapore.

The celebratory occasion began with a grade wine tasting at the Wine Cellar of the Four Seasons Hotel, Central Jakarta, which was open to the public. The tasting featured vintages from three grand cru vineyards -- Chateau Figeac of Saint-Emilion, Chateau Palmer of Margaux village in Medoc and the Domaine de Chevalier of Graves -- known for producing wines that are ranked among the top 20 vineyards of Bordeaux.

The region boasts about 10,000 chateaus, and produces a greater volume of wine than all of Australia's wine-producing regions combined. Of these 10,000 vineyards, only 250 are classified as grand cru -- the top vineyards -- and these 250 vineyards are spread across only five areas of Bordeaux: Medoc, Graves, Sauterne, Saint-Emilion and Pomerol.

At least 30 visitors showed up to taste first grade and second grade labels of the featured vineyards and to speak with their representatives -- including Figeac's Count Eric d'Aramon, the Vice-Grand Maitre of GCVB -- who had traveled to Jakarta specifically to inaugurate the new commanderie.

"It is a fantastic event of sharing, and an important one for wine lovers and for business," said Four Seasons Master Sommelier Suyanto. "It is the first grade wine tasting we've had at the hotel."

While several visitors appeared familiar with the routine of smelling, swirling, swishing the wine in the mouth and spitting it out into a wine bucket provided for this purpose, many seemed to prefer drinking the high-quality vintage to enjoy it to the fullest.

"Making wine is serious business," said Bernard de Laage de Meux of Chateau Palmer, "but when it comes to enjoying, tasting, then it's not so serious."

Palmer's wines are known for their characteristic spiciness, which appeared to be a draw for many Indonesian visitors.

Meanwhile, small groups had formed separately around Domaine de Chevalier's Olivier Bernard and Figeac's d'Aramon, who spoke in depth about the wine-making process, their estates and wines.

In the evening, a private, black-tie dinner was held at the Garden Terrace of the hotel to inaugurate the Jakarta Commanderie and to induct its founding members.

Opening the inaugural ceremony, GCVB Vice-Grand Maitre d'Aramon, and guests of honor Bernard and de Laage de Meux entered in a single-line procession to the Commanderie song, Bordeaux, Toujours Bordeaux, donning velvet burgundy capes with red mantles, yellow trim and matching caps.

Accompanying them were Singapore Commanderie Maitre Keith Kuo and his treasurer, Wong Kok Long, who each wore the society's medallion on red and yellow ribbons against their chests. Kuo and Long had also come to Jakarta to commemorate the new chapter.

D'Aramon formally established the Jakarta chapter by reading out the mandate provided by GCVB Grand Maitre Michel-Pierre Massonie, then proceeded to induct Philippine-national Agustin Que, formerly Maitre of the Hong Kong chapter, as the Jakarta Maitre.

For the past eight years that he has resided here, Que had applied yearly to the GCVB in France for permission to open a local chapter. Furthermore, in light of the population of wine- drinkers in Jakarta, Que requested an increase in the quota for founding members from the original 12 to 25.

"There has been a tremendous increase, almost geometric expansion of wine lovers at all levels -- for every kind of budget and every kind of palate -- in Jakarta," said Que. "In addition, we have seen a growth in the sophistication and specialization within certain groups of wine-drinking societies here. This indicates an improvement in lifestyle, in the appreciation of fine living."

While the ritualistic declaration of vows to the Commanderie may have been formal -- "Do you promise fidelity to the wines of Bordeaux?" -- the spirit was one of sharing and camaraderie. As Que prepared to drink a glass of wine to seal his commitment, Bernard interjected with, "It's a blind tasting," to which, after the customary swirling of the glass and a requisite sip, Que replied, "(It's a) Bordeaux."

Each of the founding members were then inducted similarly after offering their vows, a cape wrapped around their shoulders as the Maitre decorated them with a slim cane, tapping left, right, left on their shoulders and intoning, "Par le Bordeaux. Pour le Bordeaux. Bordeaux, toujours Bordeaux."

The majority of founding members are Indonesian nationals, but several expatriate members are also included, because "they are the ones who will spread the word when they leave (the country)", said d'Aramon.

The main duty of a Commanderie de Bordeaux is to promote and to develop knowledge of Bordeaux wines in Indonesia through a variety of events, such as tastings and dinners, while its members continue to hone their own knowledge and appreciation of Bordeaux wines.

"For me, it is more than a business, it is a life," said Bernard. "You never can say, 'I know wine'. Wine is more a philosophy, a style of life. And Bordeaux is to enjoy, to understand, to share -- it is not for 'drinking'."

D'Aramon concurs, adding, "It is also about the image we bring with our wines. Bordeaux wines are very elegant and very rewarding with two main points. There is the taste and flavor, and there is also the social aspect."

While wine has biblical roots in its representation of Christ's blood and its first producers were priests, it has since evolved into a culture of its own.

"As it says on the Commanderie's (membership) certificate, 'Wine culture is the highest expression of Western culture'," said de Laage de Meux.

Bernard highlights the difference between commercial or industrial wines -- that is, those produced in great volume for immediate consumption -- and the fine wines of Bordeaux, which involves a more organic, almost spiritual approach to wine- making. "This makes the difference between something to drink and something to dream. And this is why thousands visit our chateaus every year -- they want to see where the wine is made."

"And this is the main difference between Bordeaux and New World wines, like from Australia, New Zealand, South America, South Africa -- these are produced for the consumer. While we put our soul, brains, our guts in producing wine -- and there is no marketing survey for this," added d'Aramon.

De Laage de Meux continued, "Today, wine has become a drink. But high-quality wines are more than just a drink ... they are a little niche of a big mass market. They are often compared to luxury products, but it has a limited production. So no matter the market (demand), the product stays the same."

"For example," picked up Bernard, "if one in 10 people in Bordeaux drank one bottle per year, they can drink the entire Domaine de Chevalier (produced in a year)."

The Commanderies are thus necessary, concluded d'Aramon, to explain the complexities that set Bordeaux wines apart from all others.

As for enjoying wine, D'Aramon said, "The best way to appreciate wine is to marry it with your own culture, your cuisine. It does not necessarily have to be with French or Western food."

In the case of the inaugural dinner, the three chateaus had drawn up a list of the wines they would contribute, and the menu was designed in consultation with the Four Seasons chef to match the wines.

While it is generally accepted that whites go with fish and seafood, and reds with meats, de Laage de Meux stressed that this pairing was not written in stone -- and that it was not about matching flavors, but about ensuring that "the texture of the food matches the wine".

De Laage de Meux underlined, "There is a wine for every occasion, and the best way to learn is to taste -- you have to experience and build your own references. Tasting is a personal experience, and the more you experience, the more complex it becomes."

According to the three, like any culture, wine appreciation is ever evolving both personally and socially. As d'Aramon said, "You can have an evolution all life long."

But perhaps the establishment of a Commanderie here may also signify a different kind of evolution, as it is written in the GCVB's handbook: "Wine culture exists where people want to share, to understand, to enjoy ... so as to avoid conflict."

We could all drink to that.