Big plans for West Sumatra's land of lakes

Syofiardi Bachyul Jb, The Jakarta Post, Padang

Magnificent Maninjau and Singkarak come to mind when mention is made of West Sumatra's famous lakes, but its so called Twin Lakes area is also being promoted for its scenic beauty.

The crisp, invigorating mountain air signals arrival in West Sumatra's "lake district" of Solok regency, home to four -- Singkarak, Diatas, Dibawah and Talang -- of the five lakes in the province (the exception is Maninjau in Agam regency).

The area where Diatas, Dibawah and Talang are found has become known as Danau Kembar (Twin Lakes), and is a popular resort area due to its location just off the Padang-Muaralabuh-Kerinci highway.

Diatas (literally "upper" lake) and Dibawah (lower) are located only 300 meters from each other, with Talang about 4.5 km away. Nestled on the slopes of Mt. Talang but farther from the highway, the latter lake -- less known and much smaller than the others -- is also included in the Solok administration's Twin Lakes Tourist Area.

The Twin Lakes draw about 45,000 domestic tourists annually but only 500 foreign visitors, and the regency administration is intensifying the development of the area to make it a prime tourist resort not only for Solok regency, but also for West Sumatra.

"We are developing Danau Kembar tourist area into an agro- tourism area. Visitors can savor the beauty of the lakes and at the same time let their eyes feast on the expanse of vegetable patches, fruit orchards and tea plantations," said Tamium TM, head of the regency's tourism agency.

The area is easily accessible from the provincial capital of Padang via an inter-city bus to Alahan Panjang or Muaralabuh (Rp 7,000). The 60-km-long route, full of sharp twists and bends, takes about 1.5 hours.

It is a scenic trip; sights along the way include PT Semen Padang cement mill, Sumatra's oldest cement factory, and the tea plantation owned by PT Perkebunan Nusantara VI Kebun Danau Kembar.

Visitors should alight from the bus at Pasar Simpan, where there is a fork in the road, and then take a right for Lake Diatas.

It's a curiosity that the road that branches to the left goes uphill toward Lake Dibawah, which, despite its name, is actually located higher up than its "twin" (a motorcycle taxi to either of the two lakes will cost about Rp 1,000).

"Although it is nestled up the hill, the water surface of Lake Dibawah is on the same level as the bottom of Lake Diatas," Ediyar, a Solok regency communications official who is in charge of the river, lake and ferry transportation office in the area, told The Jakarta Post.

Diatas is a shallow lake, only 44 meters at its deepest point. It is 17.20 square kilometers in area, at 6.25 km long and 2.75 km wide, with a water surface about 1,600 meters above sea level.

Lake Dibawah's water surface is about 1,566 meters above sea level, with an area of 16.90 square kilometers and a depth of 886 meters. Most visitors choose to visit Lake Diatas first, which has an entry fee of Rp 1,500.

There are motorboats on the lake, which are a vital source of transportation for fruit and vegetable vendors, including ferrying them to the market at Pasar Simpang. The quay is managed by the local river, lake and ferry transportation office.

Boats will ferry visitors to the villages located on the lake's banks for only Rp 1,000 roundtrip (the fare goes up to Rp 3,000 on Sundays and public holidays). The trip allows one to savor the view of the lake cradled among a crown of small hills, part of the Bukit Barisan mountain range.

Not far from the quay is a spot for swimming, and there is also a small patch of pine trees nearby where visitors can picnic and relax.

Unfortunately, Diatas has yet to be developed for tourists, and there is no swimming or boating on the lake. Still, there is its beautiful panorama, as well as small fruit stalls selling flowers and fresh produce, including cabbages and carrots. It is especially famous for its passion fruit and terong Belanda (Dutch eggplant).

Some vendors sell dried mountain grass flowers, which are usually found in the swampy areas around the lake and only flower once a year at the lake. A bunch costs from Rp 5,000 to Rp 15,000.

After enjoying the beauty of the two lakes, it's time for a short visit to Lake Talang, which is located uphill (take a motorcycle taxi for Rp 10,000 roundtrip). The lake is only 1.30 square kilometers in area, but it is cooler and quieter here than the other lakes.

Part of the local administration's efforts to develop tourist facilities in the area includes building a resort in Gumanti Valley at the edge of the Lake Dibawah.

A convention hall with a capacity for 800 people is available here at a cost of Rp 150,000 a day. There are two large two- storey villas, for tourists, each containing three bedrooms, a sitting room and a kitchen, which cost Rp 250,000 per night.

There are also two smaller one-bedroom villas (Rp 125,000 per night) and the choice of 10 cottages (Rp 100,000).

Also planned are a quay, a playground, motocross arena and a greenbelt section.

A tea plantation owned by PT Perkebunan Nusantara VI, about 10 kilometers from the Twin Lakes, provides homestay facilities, a guest house, tennis courts, a soccer field and a trekking path on the slopes of Mt Talang. Rent of a homestay, which is ideal for the whole family, is Rp 150,000 a night, including breakfast.