Batavia, a shoppers' paradise in its day

Batavia, a shoppers' paradise in its day

By Ida Indawati Khouw

The presence of various markets made Batavia a shopping haven. The 64th article on old and protected buildings in Jakarta takes a look into the past.

JAKARTA (JP): While the present Jakarta administration works hard to lure shoppers, the old Jakarta city of Batavia was a "shopping mecca" back in the 1600s as various kinds of consumer goods ranging from vegetables and meat to porcelain and fine clothes were available to satisfy the needs of the residents.

Batavia was described as a busy town, especially in the mornings where hundreds of traders and customers from various ethnic groups mingled.

European travelers describe Batavia's markets with great relish. After long sea voyages and a limited diet at home, they were delighted by the variety of cheap food and wares available, ranging from the plentiful local fish and tropical fruits as well as flowers and the Chinese wares of silks and porcelain.

Old literature describes how Javanese, Malays, Mardijkers (freed slaves), Dutch and Eurasian ladies with their slaves flocked to the market at "the Chinese settlement in the southern part of the city" where an abundance of beautifully embroidered silk, and other wares could be procured to show off one's wealth.

In the market, Chinese sellers stood behind their tables full with merchandises and hollered to attract customers, while slaves were busy carrying umbrellas to protect their masters with one hand the other hand holding betel vines and a spittoon for the ladies should they need to spit.

Makassarese and Ambonese ship crews -- some just window shopping or taking the chance to watch the beautiful women -- were also seen in the market.

A flea market also existed near Middelpuntsbrug (Middle point bridge) with a line of "money changers" providing customers with small change. Here, it was common to see slaves carrying small sacks of coins for their masters as the merchandise was usually cheap.

Nearby were porcelain and flower markets where people could find fine quality Chinese porcelain. Usually Dutch returning to their homeland would buy great amounts of the wares for themselves or as gifts.

At the flower market, rose garlands and jasmine were everywhere, creating a beautiful atmosphere. Bachelors could be spotted in the market buying jasmine for their girlfriends' chignons.

At the same market, Arabian merchants sold pearls and spices.

No trace remaining

Unfortunately, there is nothing left as a reminder of the old markets now except Pasar Ikan (fish market) located near Jakarta bay.

At that time, the fish market was located on the western side of Kali Besar river. Traveler John Nieuhoff described it in 1662 as "being supported by strong wooden piles and covered on top with pan tiles". His drawing shows the market close to the river so fishermen could unload their catch directly and sell it.

Fish merchants were generally Chinese, each of whom had their own stall for which they paid two reals per month.

"Here you may supply yourselves with sea, river or shellfish according to your own pleasure, from 10 o'clock in the morning till four in the afternoon, when the merchants leave their stalls here and sell the remnants near the river side," Nieuhoff said in the book Mr. John Nieuhoff's Voyages and Travels to the East Indies.

Another writer, Francois Valentijn, said people crowded the market before 10 a.m., patiently waiting for the arrival of boats carrying tuna, crabs, squids and shrimps.

The Dutch usually went to the market themselves, "It seems that the ladies and gentlemen are not bothered by the putrid odor and the noise. It reminds us of the elite in Amsterdam who buy fish themselves at markets," Valentijn said.

The Dutch brought along their luxurious horse carts that filled the market's parking area.

The meat stalls located at the present Jl. Lodan provided livestock and game.

According to Nieuhoff, the city had two slaughter houses located at "the very edge of the river, supported by wooden piles, by which means they may conveniently throw the excrements of the killed beasts into the river."

"Whilst I was there, beef was sold at the rate of four stuivers per pound and pork at the same rate. But mutton being most esteemed was sold dearer," Nieuhoff recorded.

At the meat market, activity lasted until midday after which Batavia's air reeked of putrid odors from salted fish, onion and meat mixed with the bad smell of the city's canals. But passersby did not seem to mind as some still spent time chatting on the streets.

Vegetable and chicken markets were located in the Roa Malaka area. Most of the sellers were Mardijkers, meaning merdeka (freed) in Malay, slaves freed by the Portuguese upon baptism into Christianity.

The markets were bustling with activity. "After fierce bargaining, one will get a chicken for three stuivers," Valentijn said.

The market named chicken market, also provided other fowl along with dried fish, eggs and earthen wares.

The Mardijkers also grew vegetables like beans, cabbage, carrots and potatoes in their own small fields to sell at the vegetable market.