Batavia, a shoppers' paradise in its day

Batavia, a shoppers' paradise in its day

By Ida Indawati Khouw

The presence of various markets made Batavia a shopping haven.
The 64th article on old and protected buildings in Jakarta takes
a look into the past.

JAKARTA (JP): While the present Jakarta administration works
hard to lure shoppers, the old Jakarta city of Batavia was a
"shopping mecca" back in the 1600s as various kinds of consumer
goods ranging from vegetables and meat to porcelain and fine
clothes were available to satisfy the needs of the residents.

Batavia was described as a busy town, especially in the
mornings where hundreds of traders and customers from various
ethnic groups mingled.

European travelers describe Batavia's markets with great
relish. After long sea voyages and a limited diet at home, they
were delighted by the variety of cheap food and wares available,
ranging from the plentiful local fish and tropical fruits as well
as flowers and the Chinese wares of silks and porcelain.

Old literature describes how Javanese, Malays, Mardijkers
(freed slaves), Dutch and Eurasian ladies with their slaves
flocked to the market at "the Chinese settlement in the southern
part of the city" where an abundance of beautifully embroidered
silk, and other wares could be procured to show off one's wealth.

In the market, Chinese sellers stood behind their tables full
with merchandises and hollered to attract customers, while slaves
were busy carrying umbrellas to protect their masters with one
hand the other hand holding betel vines and a spittoon for the
ladies should they need to spit.

Makassarese and Ambonese ship crews -- some just window
shopping or taking the chance to watch the beautiful women --
were also seen in the market.

A flea market also existed near Middelpuntsbrug (Middle point
bridge) with a line of "money changers" providing customers with
small change. Here, it was common to see slaves carrying small
sacks of coins for their masters as the merchandise was usually
cheap.

Nearby were porcelain and flower markets where people could
find fine quality Chinese porcelain. Usually Dutch returning to
their homeland would buy great amounts of the wares for
themselves or as gifts.

At the flower market, rose garlands and jasmine were
everywhere, creating a beautiful atmosphere. Bachelors could be
spotted in the market buying jasmine for their girlfriends'
chignons.

At the same market, Arabian merchants sold pearls and spices.

No trace remaining

Unfortunately, there is nothing left as a reminder of the old
markets now except Pasar Ikan (fish market) located near Jakarta
bay.

At that time, the fish market was located on the western side
of Kali Besar river. Traveler John Nieuhoff described it in 1662
as "being supported by strong wooden piles and covered on top
with pan tiles". His drawing shows the market close to the river
so fishermen could unload their catch directly and sell it.

Fish merchants were generally Chinese, each of whom had their
own stall for which they paid two reals per month.

"Here you may supply yourselves with sea, river or shellfish
according to your own pleasure, from 10 o'clock in the morning
till four in the afternoon, when the merchants leave their stalls
here and sell the remnants near the river side," Nieuhoff said in
the book Mr. John Nieuhoff's Voyages and Travels to the East
Indies.

Another writer, Francois Valentijn, said people crowded the
market before 10 a.m., patiently waiting for the arrival of boats
carrying tuna, crabs, squids and shrimps.

The Dutch usually went to the market themselves, "It seems
that the ladies and gentlemen are not bothered by the putrid odor
and the noise. It reminds us of the elite in Amsterdam who buy
fish themselves at markets," Valentijn said.

The Dutch brought along their luxurious horse carts that
filled the market's parking area.

The meat stalls located at the present Jl. Lodan provided
livestock and game.

According to Nieuhoff, the city had two slaughter houses
located at "the very edge of the river, supported by wooden
piles, by which means they may conveniently throw the excrements
of the killed beasts into the river."

"Whilst I was there, beef was sold at the rate of four
stuivers per pound and pork at the same rate. But mutton being
most esteemed was sold dearer," Nieuhoff recorded.

At the meat market, activity lasted until midday after which
Batavia's air reeked of putrid odors from salted fish, onion and
meat mixed with the bad smell of the city's canals. But passersby
did not seem to mind as some still spent time chatting on the
streets.

Vegetable and chicken markets were located in the Roa Malaka
area. Most of the sellers were Mardijkers, meaning merdeka
(freed) in Malay, slaves freed by the Portuguese upon baptism
into Christianity.

The markets were bustling with activity. "After fierce
bargaining, one will get a chicken for three stuivers," Valentijn
said.

The market named chicken market, also provided other fowl
along with dried fish, eggs and earthen wares.

The Mardijkers also grew vegetables like beans, cabbage,
carrots and potatoes in their own small fields to sell at the
vegetable market.