Banyuwangi batik enters Netherlands market

By Singgir Kartana

BANYUWANGI, East Java (JP): The big names on the map of batik in the country are Surakarta, Yogyakarta and Pekalongan. But Banyuwangi?

It may not mean much at home but some of its producers are trying to establish its reputation in overseas markets, particularly in the Netherlands.

They are staking their claims to compete with the major producers through making high quality fabrics bearing the distinctive, Balinese-influenced Gajah Uling motif.

Home-based batik production has developed in Ragajampi, Glagah and Banyuwangi subdistricts in recent years, with exports beginning five years ago.

Ana Balqis, who owns a workshop on Jl. Dedali Putih in Banyuwangi, opened her business in 1982. After exhibiting her batik in forums both local and national, and doing a brisk business into the bargain, she is now coordinating batikmakers in Banyuwangi subdistrict.

She is optimistic that one day the batikmakers will be able to compete with their more celebrated colleagues from Central Java.

"In every exhibition, the first product that we introduce is Gajah Uling batik. I want this unique batik product to gain popularity outside Banyuwangi," she said.

"In my opinion, Banyuwangi batik is as good as the batik products from other regions."

Ana began exporting her products to Singapore last year; she also has a representative in the Netherlands, with orders projected to increase five-fold.

"I opted (for the Dutch market) solely because the Dutch people have quite a high level of respect for Javanese cultural products, particularly batik," she noted.

There is no official record of when Banyuwangi batik first came on the market, but the development of the industry in the area began about 1970.

Batikmakers acknowledged that their batik was strongly influenced by the traditions of Bali, which lies only a few kilometers across the Bali Strait from Banyuwangi.

The Gajah Uling motif is similar to the motifs found on Balinese woven cloth for women, with dark red, dark green and dark brown being the predominant colors. Drawings on the batik vary although those of plants and leaves, including seaweed, ferns and cassava, predominate. It may be related to the agrarian nature of the Banyuwangi community. Natural coloring agents, such as indigo and those derived from other plant sources, have long been used in the area.

Most batik products now undergoing development in Banyuwangi are handmade in materials ranging from cotton to silk. Prices range between Rp 17.500 and Rp 1 million per piece. She added that there were special products which would be sold for Rp 3 million.

"If the material is silk, the price of the batik will be millions of rupiah. One of the reasons for this high price is that the batik must be steeped in water for a longer period of time, sometimes up to five days, when it is being dyed. This longer period is needed to ensure that the color will be good and not easily fade," said Suhaimi, 41, a batikmaker from Glagah.

Much more needs to be done before Banyuwangi batik will be able to compete with the big centers of Central Java. The distinctive Gajah Uling motif, although pleasing on the eye, is monotone and there does not seem to be an effort to experiment with new, more modern variations which would appeal to younger consumers.

Part of the problem is that many of those operating cottage industries still lack knowledge about design and business management, instead relying on traditional practices.

Some believe it is the responsibility of the regency to support the batikmakers in their efforts. With their support, the quality and production quantity may increase and batik may some day become the regency's main export.