Bali Fashion Week V: Show goes on despite behind the scenes issues

Agatha Belinda, Contributor, Nusa Dua, Bali

The mood at the Westin Resort's convention center felt a tad too calm during Bali Fashion Week V (BFW) at the end of May.

After Minister of Industry and Trade Rini Soewandi inaugurated the event, designers, manufacturers, suppliers, buyers, journalists and a few others flocked together, swarming quietly through the trade exhibition, the seminars and the stands with amazing traditional weavers, quietly wishing for the ballroom to open, where the more glitzy matter of a fashion show would take place each night of the three-day event.

Hours later, the square-shaped catwalk, with its high-tech lighting, four huge projection screens and a giant screen backdrop, looked glorious and excitement grew among the now dressy onlookers.

Of course, the "glam" game is nothing new to anyone. So, what was there to talk about?

There were a few designers, designs, techniques and what-not, but understanding the big picture -- the struggle behind putting on an event like BFW and its place in Indonesia's fashion industry -- clearly screams for more urgency, a point the industry cannot afford to miss.

BFW was her brainchild and Mardiana Ika is naturally protective of her baby. The chairman of Moda Bali, BFW's event organizer, Ika had received a lot of flack from the start. She is herself a successful designer of Ika and Butoni, Hong Kong-based, China mass produced labels, among others, and she did not hesitate to give her colleagues access to her international connections, such as those from FTV, Book Moda Italia, Japan's Business Fashion News, Greece's Harper's Bazaar, etc, who showed up to cover the event.

From the beginning, she had lured buyers -- including her own -- from Hong Kong, Italy, the U.S, Japan, Paris, etc, to take the long trip down to Bali -- a gesture that, ironically, has backfired on her.

Past participants are still complaining that the buyers who attended the event last year were mostly Ika's friends.

"Yes, it's true!" admitted Ika straight away, "and it wasn't easy to ask them to come again after so many disappointments over late, low quality, unreliable or, even worse, no deliveries on their previous orders. All the other buyers were long gone after the third year and now many of my friends have had enough."

Despite some negativity and controversy surrounding BFW, its intended purpose has mainly been a positive one: to do a fashion event that involves a trade show with the hope of generating exports, mass production and business expansion. It's a concept that is decidedly different than the norm.

Long accustomed to fashion shows for the purpose of publicity, made-to-order and private sales, most designers haven't truly grasped what this "new" concept really means and how to assess it. It's like throwing a boomerang without realizing that it's going to come right back, and no one is ready to catch it.

Kavita Thulasidas was enthused to do some buying for her upscale boutique Stylemart, but decided to hold off.

"It just seems that the designers are not set up to take orders. Some don't know how to quote me. They haven't even priced their items yet," said the Singaporean.

First-time BFW participant Chaliet Bamban, who came out with a sensual, sophisticated, fresh take on batik, agreed that buyers seemed wary about orders not being met. Although she has exported to Switzerland and the U.S on her own, with the time-consuming hand-printed silk fabrics she makes, a substantial, added order would be almost impossible to fulfill. Her taking part in the event was mostly for publicity.

On a last minute decision, Sabbath Eberhard secured the Rp 4.5 million fee for a booth to display his spanking new accessory line, 7 Pers. It's a decision he is glad he made.

"We got so many orders for samples, we are so busy this week buying materials and making products," said the cheery designer. "Our buyers are from Europe, New Zealand, Singapore, etc. We'll definitely come back next year."

It's the opposite case for Jakarta-based accessory designer Elizabeth Wahyu. She decided not to participate this year after feeling dissatisfied last year.

"I just don't think it's worth it. I spent about Rp 20 million in cost for (fees and trip expenses) but there were only a few buyers around," she said. "I ended up breaking even by selling my stuff to friends and fellow participants."

There were even fewer buyers in attendance this year, but Ika insists that they were the more serious kind.

"I'm happy with the way things turned out. The quality of the participants was better this time around," said the designer who belongs to Chambre Syndicale, the most prestigious fashion organization in France. "US$45,000 of total samples was sold in the first week."