Authentic Indonesian food at Jakarta 5-star hotel
Megan Dout, Contributor, Jakarta
At Hotel Sahid Jaya, you will find a charming Indonesian restaurant called Bengawan Solo. It is probably the only dedicated Indonesian restaurant in a five-star hotel in Jakarta as local fare normally appears as part of an international menu. Owned and managed by the Sukamdani family, we know of no better place to enjoy authentic traditional Indonesian fare.
Location. It is conveniently located in Hotel Sahid Jaya, on the main thoroughfare of Jl. Jend. Sudirman.
Go through the main lobby, past the front desk and shops. Bengawan Solo is located to the right of the side entrance.
If you approach Bengawan Solo from the side entrance of the hotel, you will see the restaurant in full view through the huge glass windows elegantly decorated with wooden arches.
Looks. Named after the longest river in Java, Bengawan Solo has a charming old-fashioned air about it. The frosted door reminds you of batik and gentle Javanese music streams from it. You are greeted by waiters dressed in traditional Javanese costume.
The restaurant seats 70 persons comfortably in a selected number of table arrangements of 2's to 10's.
The square tables are lined with white linen tablecloths overlaid with pleasant pastel-colored batik.
The walls are decorated with wooden panels that resemble opened windows. There is a low stage to one side of the restaurant that the gamelan team occupies in the evening to entertain guests.
What's it got. It has a very extensive menu of traditional dishes from all over the archipelago from rendang from Padang, Sumatra, to Konro from Makassar, South Sulawesi.
The main course is categorized according to types of meat. There is also a good selection of appetizers, soups, side dishes and desserts.
In addition, there is a variety of Nasi Komplit and Rijstafel to choose from.
Nasi Komplit are set meals and they include regional cuisines such as Nasi Liwet Keprabon, Gudeg Malioboro, Rawon Jombang, Timbel Bandung etc. averaging around Rp 35,000 each.
We liked the fact that the waiters and kitchen staff were accommodating. For example, to complete our meal we requested for the ubiquitous pisang goreng (fried banana) which was not on the menu. They complied quite happily with our orders and made a good job of it.
It was interesting to watch the manner in which the waiters serve water using a traditional kendi (clay pot), as is the tradition in middle eastern countries.
Taste factor. Generally, we found the food authentic and tasty.
We started with tahu guling. It is a light warm salad of fried tofu on a bed of yellow noodles and vegetables drizzled with refreshing soy sauce dressing.
The lumpia udang consisted of two portions of spring rolls made from omelette with shrimps and minced chicken inside. It was tasty and good enough to eat it on its own.
Gurame Goreng fried fish was excellent and not greasy at all. It came crispy and hot off the stove.
The rendang Padang was spicy and rich; as it would be done in Padang.
The waiter recommended Ayam Taliwang, a spicy grilled chicken, which originated from Lombok. It was good and mildly spicy.
We couldn't go Indonesian without ordering satay. The skewers came on a little red clay container which was converted into a grill with burning coals inside. The portions were generous. The lamb was tender. The chicken was very well marinated and can be enjoyed without the peanut sauce.
Nasi Rawon Jombang had a rich and good broth with beef cubes. However, for the uninitiated, the black broth might be off- putting.
Price points
We felt that the food was very reasonably priced for a 5-star hotel.
The super value meal is the Ritjstafel which starts at Rp 57,500 with 6 to 8 dishes, 1 vegetable and coffee and dessert.
Minus points. Lime squash is one of the Indonesian concoctions we shall bring back with us when we leave here. It is normally made from freshly-squeezed lime and topped up with soda water. We were disappointed that a lemon concentrate was used instead and the drink was flat rather than gassy. However when we told the head waiter what we had in mind, he was able to replicate it.
The sop buntut (oxtail soup) was a bit of a disappointment as the broth could have been a little richer. There were lots of gristle and very little meat.
Verdict. If you have a tourist friend passing through Jakarta, this is the place to bring him or her for an authentic traditional Indonesian experience.
Because of its ambience, it would also be a great place to break the fast during Ramadhan.
If you ladies are looking for a place to meet for lunch, Bengawan Solo is a refreshing change from the other venues. In addition, it is centrally located and easily accessible.
The Bengawan Solo Restaurant, 86 Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Jakarta. 10220; Tel. 570 4444 Ext. 1438. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; for lunch and 6:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. for dinner.; Major credit cards accepted.