Ancient Chinese ceremony revived at a Yogya beach
By Tarko Sudiarno
YOGYAKARTA (JP): After a long absence due to the former New Order regime's ban on Chinese cultural activities, the Peh Cun celebration has returned to Parangtritis beach, Bantul regency, Yogyakarta.
Peh Cun, better known by the Chinese as Twan Yang , is a traditional ceremony which had its roots in the Han dynasty. The ceremony later became associated with the commemoration of a hero named Khut Gwan who lived in 340-238 BC.
Khut Gwan, known as an honest, kind, intelligent and wise man, was named minister. But he became the envy of others who told lies about him to the emperor.
He was banished from the palace, but his removal from power led to chaos in the kingdom. Khut Gwan, unable to witness the misery befalling his fellow citizens, committed suicide by plunging into the sea. Since then, his loyal followers have kept his memory alive through this ceremony.
In some parts of the world, the ceremony includes dragon boat racing (peh means oar, cun is boat), but this is not possible in the rough seas off Parangritis. The ceremony in Central Java instead shows strong influence of the syncretic local culture such as in the use of offerings.
When all Chinese festivals were banned after the abortive 1965 coup, which was blamed on the Indonesian Communist Party (PKI), Peh Cun became a memory for most people in the area. It's revival came with Soeharto's resignation in 1998; the ceremony held in late June was the second in the last three years.
Peh Cun's return has been enthusiastically welcomed by the ethnic Chinese in Yogyakarta and Central Java, and the general public alike. Bantul Regent Hj. Muhamad Idham Samawi attended the ceremony and said he hoped it would become a tourist attraction.
The thousands of people who came for the celebration were particularly interested in seeing objects such as eggs being balanced upright when the sun is directly overhead and also the seemingly miraculous parting of the sea when the Labuhan (offerings) are made.
Most of the visitors, especially young children, brought eggs with them to see if the phenomenon would occur. They balanced them on even surfaces such as plates or planks, and at precisely noon, after the opening prayers were said, their wish came true.
"Mom, mom, look the egg can stand by itself" cried Citta, eight, when her egg stood upright on a plastic beaker. The large goose egg remained upright despite the blustery winds.
This spectacle continued for an hour, and then all efforts to make the eggs stand failed.
A local figure from the Chinese community, Kanjeng Mas Tumenggung Tirtodopuro, said the phenomenon could be explained scientifically.
"At a certain time of the year, the Earth's gravity will reach its culminating point and the gravitational force will be perpendicular to the equator, so wherever we are on the equator, we can do the same thing, whether at home or anywhere else, not only on this beach."
But he added that the phenomenon could only happen once a year, on the fifth day of the fifth month when Peh Cun was held.
Second phenomenon
No less astonishing was the second phenomenon, which would be hard to believe if one did not witness it.
Offerings of Chang cakes, made of ground glutinous rice and nuts, were carried to the sea. Suddenly, the water began to part, as if the fairies of the Kingdom of the Queen of the South Sea was creating a pathway for the followers. Only a few minutes before the same area was being beaten by waves.
When the offerings were cast in the water, people swarmed like bees to grab them, believing they would bring good luck.
"Wonderful and miraculous, this is the first time I have seen such a bizarre phenomenon," said a first-time visitor from Salatiga, Central Java.
Peh Cun is a ceremony to thank God for his grace and blessings. The chairman of the Kong Hu Cu Association in Indonesia (Pakin), Hak Su Tjie Tjai Ing, led the prayers to ask God to bring peace and prosperity to Indonesia.