Age-old tradition continues in Bugis village
By Alpha Savitri
DENPASAR, Bali (JP): The Muslim community of Bugis village in Serangan, Denpasar, celebrates the unique ritual of Megalicik Quran every year in a tradition dating back to when the village was visited by death.
Megalicik is from the Bugis dialect of South Sulawesi, which means to parade or carry, while Quran refers to the holy Koran. The tradition is believed to have started in the 17th century when the Buginese seafaring people first arrived on the Hindu- dominated island.
One of the oldest Islamic villages in Bali, Serangan continues to be mainly occupied by descendants of the Buginese sailors who fled South Sulawesi when the Dutch attempted to crush the many Islamic kingdoms in the area.
Many Buginese, a people known for their bravery, chose to flee and look for new areas to settle, including Serangan, instead of succumbing to the Dutch.
According to villager Haj Mansyur, the pioneering Buginese seamen were soon caught by the King of Badung's troops.
But the king knew that Buginese people were renowned as being courageous sailors and soldiers, and ordered them to fight against rival Mengwi troops. With the help of the Buginese sailors, the Badung kingdom won their battle and annexed Mengwi as part of its territory.
The king awarded the Buginese a plot of land in Serangan village where they have lived for generations. Their descendants faithfully follow their ancestors' traditions, including parading the Koran, usually held once a year on the ninth day of the Islamic Muharram month.
Village elder Hj. Mansyur, 60, said the tradition began when the village was devastated by a terrible plague. Victims fell sick in the morning and were dead by nightfall. The plague spread to surrounding villages, taking a terrible toll.
One of the village's founders, Hj. Hasbullah, was visited by God in a dream. He was told that the plague was sent down as a warning from God about the sins of man and the only way to end it was to have the men of the village conduct Megalicik Quran as a spiritual cleansing.
The men were required to perform the ceremony for three consecutive days while reciting an Arabic chant.
"The verse in Arabic is very long, but he was able to memorize it from his dream. When he woke up, all of the villagers were instructed to learn the verse," Mansyur said.
The plague passed, but continued to strike surrounding Hindu villages. They eventually tried the parade around their villages, but, of course, without carrying the Islamic holy book. The disease and dying also stopped in those places.
Purification
The ritual continues today in a process of spiritual purification. This year, after Ashar (afternoon) prayers in April, the 255 male villagers gathered at the 17th century Assyuhada mosque.
A group of men commenced the ritual. One of them took the Koran and carried it on his head. On his right, a child carried a red and white colored national flag, while on the left another boy carried the Zulfakar flag, the community's trademark.
It is believed the Zulfakar flag was used by the villagers' ancestors as a symbol of victory when they helped the King of Badung in a battle against the Mengwi kingdom.
The village men hummed adzan (the call to prayer) and later walked around the village while singing the famous verse in Arabic. They stopped in every corner of the village and stood facing the direction of Mecca. They repeated the parade three times in a ritual taking about one hour.
The day after the ritual, a closing ceremony was held. Village women prepared special porridge garnished with egg, which they ate together with their menfolk at the mosque.
The tradition has changed little over the years, but it has been simplified by the villagers, most of whom earn a living in the ornamental fish trade. From 1970, the men have not conducted the ritual over three days in a row, but instead three times on the one day. It may have been changed for the times, but it is important for them nevertheless, in giving thanks for God's grace and acknowledging His power.