Age-old tradition continues in Bugis village

Age-old tradition continues in Bugis village

By Alpha Savitri

DENPASAR, Bali (JP): The Muslim community of Bugis village in
Serangan, Denpasar, celebrates the unique ritual of Megalicik
Quran every year in a tradition dating back to when the village
was visited by death.

Megalicik is from the Bugis dialect of South Sulawesi, which
means to parade or carry, while Quran refers to the holy Koran.
The tradition is believed to have started in the 17th century
when the Buginese seafaring people first arrived on the Hindu-
dominated island.

One of the oldest Islamic villages in Bali, Serangan continues
to be mainly occupied by descendants of the Buginese sailors who
fled South Sulawesi when the Dutch attempted to crush the many
Islamic kingdoms in the area.

Many Buginese, a people known for their bravery, chose to flee
and look for new areas to settle, including Serangan, instead of
succumbing to the Dutch.

According to villager Haj Mansyur, the pioneering Buginese
seamen were soon caught by the King of Badung's troops.

But the king knew that Buginese people were renowned as being
courageous sailors and soldiers, and ordered them to fight
against rival Mengwi troops. With the help of the Buginese
sailors, the Badung kingdom won their battle and annexed Mengwi
as part of its territory.

The king awarded the Buginese a plot of land in Serangan
village where they have lived for generations. Their descendants
faithfully follow their ancestors' traditions, including parading
the Koran, usually held once a year on the ninth day of the
Islamic Muharram month.

Village elder Hj. Mansyur, 60, said the tradition began when
the village was devastated by a terrible plague. Victims fell
sick in the morning and were dead by nightfall. The plague spread
to surrounding villages, taking a terrible toll.

One of the village's founders, Hj. Hasbullah, was visited by
God in a dream. He was told that the plague was sent down as a
warning from God about the sins of man and the only way to end it
was to have the men of the village conduct Megalicik Quran as a
spiritual cleansing.

The men were required to perform the ceremony for three
consecutive days while reciting an Arabic chant.

"The verse in Arabic is very long, but he was able to memorize
it from his dream. When he woke up, all of the villagers were
instructed to learn the verse," Mansyur said.

The plague passed, but continued to strike surrounding Hindu
villages. They eventually tried the parade around their villages,
but, of course, without carrying the Islamic holy book. The
disease and dying also stopped in those places.

Purification

The ritual continues today in a process of spiritual
purification. This year, after Ashar (afternoon) prayers in
April, the 255 male villagers gathered at the 17th century
Assyuhada mosque.

A group of men commenced the ritual. One of them took the
Koran and carried it on his head. On his right, a child carried a
red and white colored national flag, while on the left another
boy carried the Zulfakar flag, the community's trademark.

It is believed the Zulfakar flag was used by the villagers'
ancestors as a symbol of victory when they helped the King of
Badung in a battle against the Mengwi kingdom.

The village men hummed adzan (the call to prayer) and later
walked around the village while singing the famous verse in
Arabic. They stopped in every corner of the village and stood
facing the direction of Mecca. They repeated the parade three
times in a ritual taking about one hour.

The day after the ritual, a closing ceremony was held. Village
women prepared special porridge garnished with egg, which they
ate together with their menfolk at the mosque.

The tradition has changed little over the years, but it has
been simplified by the villagers, most of whom earn a living in
the ornamental fish trade. From 1970, the men have not conducted
the ritual over three days in a row, but instead three times on
the one day. It may have been changed for the times, but it is
important for them nevertheless, in giving thanks for God's grace
and acknowledging His power.