Adventure to Krakatau: A journey of pleasure

By Sona V. Blessing

ANAK KRAKATAU, On Sunda Strait (JP): It is surrounded by azure, blue waters, an open, unending sky punctuated with fluffy white clouds. It has verdant green foliage on its slopes and looks mystical with a veil of willowy, wispy mist floating around its summit.

More than a panorama, the scene is a snapshot of paradise -- graced by serenity and tranquility.

Could this really be Krakatau? An infamous, violent inferno that blew itself apart 114 years ago?

Could this be the sight of the largest volcanic eruption that ever occurred in the history of Earth, with a force equivalent to 2,000 Hiroshima bombs and killing 36,000 people?

The explosion was so great that a marine trench 300 meters deep replaced the 400-meter-high cone. And yes, it is Krakatau.

Curiosity, then, is perhaps what draws most people to visit Krakatau. It certainly drew us there. Today, however, only a small part of the original volcano remains.

But roughly where the 1883 eruption occurred, further volcanic activity caused a new island to rise above the sea -- Anak Krakatau, the "Child" of Krakatau.

This island stands 200 meters above sea level and has been growing ever since its first appearance in 1928. It is restless and temperamental, spews glowing rocks and belches smoke and ashes.

It did so this year, and was very active in August, so when we visited in mid-November, all we saw were seemingly soft, swirly, sulfur vapors rising from its summit.

We couldn't muster up the courage to climb up. But boats can land on the east side of the island and it is possible to climb right up the cinder cones to the cauldron.

Be warned, because it is dangerous. If you want to make it to the top, it would be advisable to check the condition of Krakatau's state of mind beforehand with the forest and natural conservation office in Labuan, or at one of the hotels or tour agents.

In 1993, several travelers died because they climbed too close to the active crater.

Krakatau is still active, and between 1927 and 1992 it erupted 73 times.

If you do attempt a climb, thick-soled walking shoes are a must, and it is advisable to walk from the east side of the island, up the warm, devastated landscape through deep ash, to the main crater.

We chose to be cautious, sailing past and in close proximity to Anak Krakatau, but the trip still provided stunning photo opportunities and even ensured that we saw the fresh layers of thick, dark lava.

It was utterly desolate and uninhabited. A stark contrast to a neighboring island that is equally uninhabited, but boasts dense, lush green vegetation and is packed with coconut trees.

It was a treat to see palm trees swaying to the gentle breeze.

When we anchored off Anak Krakatau, the waters around the cliffs were calm and provided good swimming, snorkeling, diving and fishing opportunities.

The undersea thermal springs cause abundant marine plant growth, and this, in turn, attracts a wealth of sea creatures.

Ensure that the skipper or someone on board carries medication in case you are bitten by certain sea creatures.

The beaches on the islands are bare and minimal, but are usually within swimmable distance.

If do you swim ashore, you will see pretty seashells strewn around.

We gathered a few as special souvenirs of our trip!

Before taking a dip, be sure to check that the current is not too strong.

The best time to visit Krakatau is between April and June, or in September and October, because the sea crossing is calmest and the weather best.

November and March have strong currents and often rough seas. As we can testify.

In our case, the waters got very rough and choppy past the Sunda Strait until we neared Krakatau.

It goes without saying that all of us got seasick, but survived! We also braved some thunderstorms, which only added to the excitement.

Krakatau lies just 50 kilometers off West Java's coast.

There are several ways to get there, but the best option would be to charter your own boat, as we did. We chose to go on the Temeraire II, an attractive red 15-meter sailboat.

It took us three days to sail there and back. The cost, a pricey Rp 850,000, included meals.

But we were happy to have a skipper who has 250,000 nautical miles under his belt, which roughly translates as circling the globe six times.

We set sail from Tanjung Priok, but boats can be chartered from Anyer, Labuan and Carita.

The Mambruk Beach Resort at Anyer has a fast launch to Krakatau (two hours) for hire, while the Carita Krakatau Beach Hotel has two boats; one costs Rp 300,000 to charter and takes four hours each way, the other costs Rp 750,000 and takes two hours each way.

They also have standby waiting available for single travelers.

Beware, because locals have gained a reputation for overcharging and then providing unseaworthy boats.

If chartering a local boat from Carita, Labuan or Anyer, make sure that there is sufficient fuel for the return journey and that it is understood at what time you wish to return to the mainland -- visitors have been known to be stranded on Krakatau.

Ask about food provisions or be sure to take your own along and ensure there is adequate fresh water on board before you sail.

Check also for life vests and first aid supplies on board. Prices will vary according to the size and condition of the vessel, but expect to pay Rp 250,000 to Rp 300,000.

For the rest, don't forget to pack along adequate sunblock, seasick medication, and if sailing by night, some light jumpers.

You might even feel land sick when you return, as we did. It is a strange feeling, but a memorable end to an adventurous trip to Krakatau.