A trip down river into Gunung Leuser National Park

Text and photos by Nicky Walsh

ACEH (JP): Scattered across the archipelago, Indonesia's national parks provide a safe haven for the rapidly diminishing flora and rarely seen fauna. Their very inaccessibility ensures that these regions remain relatively undisturbed and protected. One way into the heart of these areas, is by nature's own highway, the river.

I was here to travel down such a river, the Alas, having taken up a friend's suggestion to get away from it all, by going on a four-day river cruise. It is the longest river on Sumatra's west coast and runs through much of the Gunung Leuser National Park, one of Indonesia's oldest parks.

My journey began in Medan, North Sumatra, from where I made my way overland four hours later to Berastagi, home of the Karo Bataks. The next morning we drove on, past the steaming Mt. Sibayak and all 2,451 metres of the sulfurous Mt. Sinabung, to finally meet the Alas just outside Kutacane.

The Alas is wide at this point and it is one of the mildest stretches to start on. The equipment was unloaded and the crew began to pump air into one red and one yellow inflatable raft. After five and a half hours on a bus it took a while for the truth to dawn on me. This was to be an active adventure holiday, not as I had foolishly believed, a leisurely river cruise.

Taking a deep breath I joined my fellow adventurers, three Americans, one Luxemburger, two Germans and a crew of three Sumatrans at the river's edge. We listened closely as we were given an intensive lesson in paddling techniques and safety procedures on the river by Anwar, our team leader. Before sundown we had to reach Camp 1, three or four hours down-river. This all sounded rather daunting. We looked at each other encouragingly, as if to say "of course we can do it". And not to be defeated, we enthusiastically put on life vests, picked oars and took up positions in the raft. A quick push and we were off, into the heart of Gunung Leuser National Park.

Established in 1980, the 1.1-billion-hectare park crosses the border between the Aceh and North Sumatra provinces, encompassing some of the most spectacular rain-forests and mountainous landscapes in the country. The dense jungle lining the river banks and beyond is home to some of Indonesia's most fascinating wildlife, including 520 species of birds, numerous primates, as well as 194 reptiles and 62 kinds of amphibians.

The first stop was at the park ranger's office, where our visit was registered. Anyone going in or out of the restricted areas in the park has to have a permit. Slowly we left the populated and cultivated plains which are quickly replaced by secondary forest. The gentle lapping of water eased the road journey out of our bodies and we gradually built up a comfortable rowing rhythm.

Vegetation

The river begins to narrow and a thick bank of vegetation and trees line the sandy banks. The birds, mainly horn-bills and startlingly colorful kingfishers, glided and swooped gracefully before us. The sounds of the white-handed gibbons and the leaf monkeys peppered the afternoon's gentle passage down the river.

Dusk closed in as Asem, our second guide, spotted a sand bank. The inflatable boats were hauled onto the bank, secured and Camp 1 set up. Anwar and Asem quickly taught everyone how to pitch their own tent. Either that or you sleep under the stars with the creepy-crawlies. Added to which the chance of rain is fairly high, even in the dry season.

Risman, the cook, was definitely the star of the team. He set up the kitchen with four long oars at each corner, serving as poles for a tarpaulin roof, and a fire was built at one end. By the time we finished struggling with our tent poles, pegs and all, the smell of sizzling barbecued chicken and stir-fried vegetables filled the air. Later, a chorus of cicadas tuning up blended with the rippling water and a distant rushing sound, lulling us to sleep.

The day broke over the water, as it sparkled deep khaki green beneath the flickering sunlight. Last night's distant rush of water seemed much louder over breakfast and as the coffee kicked in the news that there are rapids up ahead caused a stir of minor trepidation among the team. The camp was packed up, all non bio- degradable rubbish included, and loaded on to the equipment boat. We took up our positions and set off for the first set of rapids.

This was 20 metres away from the camp and proved to be very short and sweet. Hardly did so much as a shriek escape my mouth before it was all over. On we rowed, exhilarated by this early morning experience and began the best part of the trip. We floated past steep rocky outcrops, where creepers and vines mimic waterfalls, as they hang down just a few metres above the flowing Alas.

The hardwood trees stick out above the canopy, creating natural skyscrapers. The rhythmic flapping of wings and bird-song softly punctuated the flowing river. Calm was all around. Suddenly, a series of orang-utan nests were spotted high up in the canopy. We all started to scan the dense forest, hoping to see a wild orang-utan. Rare indeed, even in a fully protected national park.

We were lucky, the giant red primate showed itself at the top of a tree, where it sat serenely watching us. We stared back in mutual surprise and fascination. Then having had enough of us, it slowly and gracefully loped down the tree and out of sight.

Nature continued to keep us on our toes, as three hours from camp we stopped before the second set of rapids. These were much more of a challenge. Louder, longer and with a lot of white water crashing around boulders we would have to avoid. Risman and the equipment went first, while we watched knowing we were next.

Crashing water

Off we set, feet firmly in the foot loops and straightening up for the approach. Then the crashing water took us in its path and we were away. Anwar's shouts of " back paddle, back paddle, left, left, forwards, right, right, right, forwards," were accompanied by loud whoops and screams. Having had a taste, we all thought we fancied more of the same but the rapids were over and we floated on.

The panorama changed once again as we rowed through the cool quiet of stunning limestone gorges. They resembled a modern art gallery, as the rock's strange striations, nooks and crannies, formed eerie faces and huge birds of prey. The green Alas then converges with the muddy brown Renun, creating nature's own two- tone color scheme, as the waters struggled to merge. It was just past the cascading tributary that we set up Camp 2.

Here it is possible to trek into the jungle and chance a face to face encounter with a herd of elephants, sneak up on an orang- utan or other primates swinging through the trees, and generally become immersed in the environment. We didn't see the elephants but their footprints and broken branches were all around. That night the skies opened and we were thankful for the little shelter that the tents provided. The next morning the damage was evident in our rather bedraggled appearance and feeble attempts to dry off damp packs and clothes. The kitchen quickly came to the rescue as Risman whipped up a magnificent cooked breakfast over last night's embers.

We left the camp as it was found, clean and seemingly untouched. Day 3 on the river was waterfall day. We were quickly given the chance to recover in more ways than one. We stopped at Rainbow waterfall which is reputed to make you look and feel five years younger. That is of course, if you are brave enough to bathe beneath 10 metres of icy cold fresh water. I have to admit it was the best shower of the trip and we did all feel five years younger, even if we didn't look it.

Signs of human activity increased as we rowed for about five hours and passed numerous waterfalls downstream. The trees thinned out, the wildlife and birds became less frequent as the river in turn broadened once again. The hum of outboard motors filled the air, replacing the birdsong.

The final camp was located just outside the restricted park area, on a very comfortable grassy bank, overlooking the river. We watched the small outriggers and local boats ply the area and ferry people between villages. Finally, we cruised down to Gelombang on a river boat, lazily watching as life went by. Villagers waved from their houses, a farmer washed his oxen in the river, boats filled with people and vegetables whizzed noisily by. We left Gunung Leuser National Park behind and rejoined the hustle and bustle of civilization again.

We talked on late into the night, reflecting on all we had seen and felt. In four days we had traveled to, through and beyond nature in the heart of the park. Marveling as we went at an environment where, although illegal poaching and logging are not unheard of, constant monitoring by dedicated park wardens preserves the unique flora and fauna of Aceh and North Sumatra.