A hotel room for Bung Karno's spirit

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Sanur, Bali

Sukarno, the first president of Indonesia, left behind many memories during his early struggle against colonialism. Those memories were left behind in Bung Karno's houses where he was exiled to in Ende, East Nusa Tenggara, Bengkulu, Bangka or in Sukamiskin Prison in Bandung, West Java.

These places still depict the gloomy years in his fight for the country's independence. However, there is one place which still holds memories of him that may not be directly related to his fight against colonialism.

In 1963, then president Sukarno pioneered the construction of the first upper class hotel in Indonesia, which was funded by war reparations from Japan. It is said that Sukarno chose the location for the hotel. He selected a site at Sanur Beach as the beach has a wonderful view. Construction was completed in 1966. Indonesia's first 10-floor hotel, the Bali Beach Hotel, was opened to the public. The hotel was a milestone for Indonesia amid the chaotic political and economic climate of the time. Although it was Sukarno's idea, he never stayed at the hotel nor did he return to Bali. Due to the political turmoil, Sukarno remained in Jakarta until he died on June 21, 1970.

The hotel was first renovated in 1985. On Jan. 20, 1993 a terrible catastrophe horrified the 400 hotel guests. A fire started on the ground floor and engulfed the entire hotel. Fortunately, all the guests and hotel staff were able to escape unharmed. No one was injured in the fire that turned Sanur's skies dark. The fire gutted the highest building in Bali. Two days later the smoke cleared and the building was cool enough to allow workers to inspect the ruined building.

Nobody would have thought that a corner of the building would be left untouched by the fire. But surprisingly, the workers found one room in the same condition that it was before the fire broke out. It was room 327 overlooking the sea.

Its door and walls were blackened by smoke, but the entire room and balcony remained intact. No technical theory could explain how the room escaped the flames. An offering was made to the room and the room was closed.

It is believed that the mythical Queen of the South Seas likes to have a room allocated for her, usually one that faces the beachfront. Most hotels on beaches facing the South Seas comply to her wishes by reserving a beachfront room for her. Such a room existed in the Bali Beach Hotel, but it had not been clear which one it was. On the advice of a psychic, a room was devoted to her in a cottage by the beach after the renovation.

It took about 2,800 workers and craftsmen to restore the hotel from March 1993 to October 1993. All the rooms were renovated except for room 327. Following the completion of the renovation, a ceremony was held on Oct. 4, 1993.

The undamaged carpeted room was left exactly as it was.

The twin beds, the radio, the rattan sofa, the lamp, the cupboard, the table, the bottle of Aqua, the telephone and the bathrobe in the bathroom are all the original contents of the room 36 years ago.

Everyone who enters the room should first knock on the door as if it were occupied.

"We have to ask for permission first," explained Wahmurni, the hotel's manager who has worked there since 1965.

"Believe it or not, the psychics say that the queen wanted Bung Karno to have a room in the hotel," she said.

Three times a day, an offering is made to the room. Snacks, fruit, packs of cigarettes and cups of coffee are left for the invisible special guest. The room is also cleaned every day.

Vases containing fresh or fake flowers are placed on the table. A pair of white trousers, a jacket and a black rimless cap lay on the bed, while a pair of black men's slippers are placed on the carpet.

Wahmurni said these were duplicates of Bung Karno's belongings, and his spirit is said to reside in the room. Two cloths, one yellow and one white, are placed on a table that receives various offerings from visitors.

A sarong and the clothes on the bed are gifts from past visitors. On a special occasion, such as Indonesia's Independence, some visitors will make offerings to the spirit of Bung Karno like red and white tarts. There was also one offering of a piece of paper with a message from Bung Karno. It was written by someone who said he heard the whispers of the spirit of Bung Karno.

Many believe it was more than magic that spared the room in the biggest fire in Bali in 1993. Should the special guest really be the spirit of Bung Karno, then his wish to stay in the hotel room has come true.