Zigolini, Italian cuisine in a trendy atmosphere

JAKARTA (JP): When you walk through the heavy beamed doors of Zigolini, situated on the third floor of the Mandarin Oriental, you could be excused for thinking you were in a modern art gallery. A spectrum of colors, peculiar shaped objects and images rush to meet you. The impact of the decor is thanks to the genius of architect Tony Chi, who is well known among New Yorkers for his restaurant designs.

Contemporary black and white photographs adorn most of the walls while an oversized ceramic vase, filled with white blooms, commands center stage above the bar adjacent to the entrance. Behind the bar is a huge and vibrant wall mural of Gaudi's famous imagery of Barcelona benches. The mural, revamped by artists Andrea and Timothy Biggs, is a magnificent backdrop to your meal. If your dining partner is particularly tedious, there are plenty of other interesting things to keep you occupied.

There's always something to talk about while you are dining at Zigolini and there is no such thing as the best seat in the house. The open kitchen layout allows the diner to watch head chef Dan Ivarie, and his entourage, conjure up provincial Italian delights in a traditional wood-fired oven. There is also a cozy function room, suitable for impromptu business meetings, that allows you privacy while not quite cutting you off from the crowd. Tucked away in a corner there is an antique looking cupboard which complements the other delightful pieces of hand carved furniture in the main dining room. Brightly colored glass vases, contorted into odd shapes, are tastefully displayed on wooden shelving, reinforcing the cosmopolitan atmosphere of the place.

"When people go out and dine, they don't just want to eat the food on their plate, they want to be entertained visually. At Zigolini, every seat offers a good view," notes Duncan Palmer, General Manager of the Mandarin Oriental. "Every time you come, its a different atmosphere."

Upbeat

But don't expect to be lulled into an idyllic trance by the dulcet tones of Pavarotti, or gaze longingly into your partner's candle-lit face. Instead, prepare for a much more upbeat atmosphere. The music is fast and furious, creating a charged evening that will get you ready for a night out on the town.

The quality and variety of the decor could make it easy for the food to play second fiddle. Not at Zigolini's. The menu is equally eclectic. Over a drink of Bellini, champagne and peach sherbet, we studied the fascinating menu of exotic flavors. If you are a newcomer to Italian cuisine, restaurant manager Paolo Randone will be at hand to suggest melt in the mouth dishes to suit your individual taste. Alongside the traditional Italian favorites are innovative concoctions like "Salmone e Caviale" (Rp15,000-20,000), pizza topped with smoked salmon, thinly sliced sweet onion, cheese and caviar. As the Italian expression goes, "Bellisimo!"

Starters include "Antipasti Misti", an incredible collection of Italian meats such as salmon, parma ham, salami and pepperoni combined with gorgonzola and Parmesan cheeses and olives, elegantly presented in a gargantuan clear glass plate. For those who prefer something more exotic, both the "Calamari Fritti" (Rp 12,000), deep fried breaded squid with a spicy tomato sauce, and "Moscardini Affogati Nel Pomodoro"(Rp 15,000), warm baby Octopus braised in tomatoes served with polenta, may be appealing.

To give a genuinely Italian taste, the hotel engaged consultant Mr. Enrico Da Vittorio, whose family own the famous "Restaurant De Vittario" which has catered to dignitaries like the King of Spain, and Barbara Battalini who designed the charming black and white uniforms worn by the attentive staff.

Back to the food, however. On the salad menu is the highly recommended "Insalata Di Porcini Con Mandorle" (Rp 17,000) with wild mushrooms tossed with shredded, toasted almonds and Parmesan cheese. The Caesar's Salad (Rp 12,000) is another good choice.

The variety of pizzas toppings are definitely worth a mention. They include the "Pollo E Spinaci" pizza (Rp 10,000-15,000), one of my personal favorites, with marinated chicken, Parmesan and Romano cheese, spinach and red onion to give it a sweet and spicy taste.

Next time I will try the lobster pizza, "Calzone Del Marinao" (Rp 22,000) and the "Calzone Greco" (Rp 17,000), one of the executive chef's favorite, with black olives, spinach, roast peppers, feta, ricotta and Parmesan cheese. Quite frankly, the pizzas are the best I have tasted, light and crisp, largely owing to the traditional wood oven.

Among the nine pasta dishes are the rich tortelloni filled with ricotta and spinach bathing in a tomato sauce (Rp 17,000) and the lasagna (Rp 18,000) layered with spinach, roasted eggplant, zucchini, braised tomatoes and ricotta cheese. The "Gnocchi Gorgonzola" (Rp 15,000), potato dumplings gratinated in gorgonzola sauce, is not too heavy while the "Fettucini Al Porcini" (Rp 17,000), fettuccine with marinated chicken, roasted artichokes and olives, is a must.

The Seafood menu includes a scrumptious dish of baked lobster with spinach risotto and tomato sauce and garnished with Italian parsley leaves.

Best thing

If you are a meat lover, go for the roasted rack of lamb (Rp 31,000) which executive chef, Maurice Theoret, calls "the best thing in the world." It is neat and elegantly compact and served with Italian beans and bell peppers. Another alternative is the beef tenderloin or sirloin in a grainy mustard sauce with sauteed spinach and grilled endives (Rp29,000). An all time Italian favorite is the braised veal shank in red wine sauce and grilled polenta (Rp 25,000).

The "bomba gelata" desserts stand out on the ala carte menu (Rp 8,000-9,000). This creation is a dome shaped, triple decked ice cream coated in a chocolate shell with a strawberry and passion fruit syrup. Don't be deceived by its rich appearance, once it dissolves in your mouth the taste is surprisingly light. The melted remains of the ice cream on the cloud shaped stone ware plate, resembled the daubs of colored paint on an artist's palette.

The Zigolini's signature dessert is the tiramisu served in a transparent, cobalt blue bowl. It is creamy and chocolaty with strong amaretto and liqueur flavors. Quite unforgettable is the "baba" which is rum soaked sponge balls, vanilla ice cream and fresh fruit.

Finish it all off with a frothy cup of cappuccino served in a outlandish stone cup which looks like something out of The Flintstones.

The only thing that is not authentic about the restaurant is its name. It was simply made up, Maurice confesses, around a table one day. Lunch or dinner, business or pleasure, Zigolini is sure to become one of the trendiest places to go to in Jakarta.

-- Sheila Devadas