Zheng He festival, a reminder of a multicultural society

Zheng He festival, a reminder of a multicultural society

Harry Bhaskara, The Jakarta Post

When a one-week celebration begins on Monday in Semarang, many
school children, university students and residents might ask who
is Zheng He?

This is no surprise as youngsters are more familiar with
explorers like Vasco da Gama and Marco Polo, but not Cheng Ho as
Zheng He is locally known.

In fact, the Chinese admiral who visited the Central Java port
city 600 years ago has an enduring legacy in the city. This
weeks' celebration is held to remember this trade emissary from
the Ming Dynasty.

Topping the agenda will be exhibitions, discussions on Zheng
He's contribution to the island of Java, traditional processions,
barongsai and lion dance competitions, dancing, music and
acrobatic shows from China. There will also be seminars on the
potential of Central Java as an investor destination and tourist
destination.

The festival marks one of the latest discoveries of a lively
part of history, previously buried or hidden from students
growing up under the New Order just because it dealt with issue
of "Chinese".

Arriving at Semarang at the start of 15th century, Zheng He
made a cave of Simongan Hill as his temporary abode while
repairing his ships. Historians believe it was common for people
to live in caves in those days.

Being a Muslim, Zheng He built a mosque nearby and founded a
Chinese Muslim community. The mosque was later turned into a
temple by Semarang residents, now known as Sam Poo Kong.

A huge Zheng He statue stands in front of the temple. Semarang
residents, awed by his bravery, empathy, compassion, generosity
and wide knowledge, have elated him almost to a god-like status.

Later, another temple, Thay Kak Sie was built to show respect
to him. The two temples have since become the city's important
landmarks.

Zheng He made seven voyages to more than 30 countries over a
span of 28 years from 1405 to 1433 that took him to Southeast
Asia and Africa.

Our knowledge about his early encounters is sketchy because
there are only a few local books available.

Some books described Zheng He's contribution to the
development of Islam on Java. It would be interesting to know,
for example, the link between Zheng He and the revered nine
Muslim scholars known as Wali Songo some of whom were likely
Chinese. Further disclosure around this theme will enrich the
history of Islam's development in Indonesia.

One of Zheng He's interpreters, Ma Huan wrote in 1433 in his
book entitled Ying-yai Sheng-lan (The Overall Survey of the
Ocean's Shores) that Zheng He did not only visit Semarang, but
also many other places such as Tuban, Surabaya, Timor, Aceh,
Lampung and Palembang. Whatever impact his visits had on those
places remains largely speculation.

Fast forward 600 years, Indonesia is forging closer ties with
China. Last week Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono visited China,
reciprocating Chinese President Hu Jintao's visit to Indonesia in
April.

Relations between the two countries have improved by leaps and
bounds following the restoration of diplomatic ties in 1990. But
uneasiness in the relationship between indigenous Indonesians and
Chinese-Indonesians remains. Partly, it is the legacy of the
Dutch colonial government, which made a clear division between
indigenous people and Chinese residents here (also Arab and
Indian residents). The tension was increased during Indonesia's
independence struggle in the 1940s, and further during the three
decades under Soeharto when, save for a few of his Chinese-
Indonesian tycoon cronies, he tried rid the country all things
Chinese.

The biggest challenge today is to return to the days when
Chinese-Indonesians lived alongside indigenous Indonesians in a
genial climate the way they did hundreds of years ago.

As is the case following the end of a celebration, Zheng He's
included, memories will soon fade away in people's mind. The task
remaining is to enlighten the people about the tales of their
land and to put it in school history books. Otherwise youngsters
will be aliens in their own land. And if this comes about, it
would be an alienation that is self-inflicted.