Youth fashion trends in Jakarta

Youth fashion trends in Jakarta

By Agni Amorita

JAKARTA (JP): Maharani Djody, 19, a sixth semester student at
the University of Indonesia's School of Law, is not only
preoccupied with books. The presenter of the youth program
Ekspresi on Indosiar television station, known as Rani among
friends and acquaintances, meets at a rendezvous with friends of
her age on weekends. They can be seen window-shopping (and maybe
boy-watching) in prominent malls and plazas in Jakarta. They look
at fashionable clothes on sale, and not rarely they buy them.

"I like to buy typical youth clothes, simple, comfortable to
wear but that can give a different look," said Rani, a former
finalist in a cover girl contest organized by Gadis magazine,
when she thronged together with her girlfriends for the opening
of the (X)SML boutique owned by fashion designer Biyan in Plaza
Senayan, Jakarta, early this month.

Rani and her gang of middle-class girlfriends in Jakarta were
promptly engaged in selecting items from Biyan's "diffusion time"
collection that was created for youths and people young at heart
at prices between Rp 150,000 (US$18.75) and Rp 350,000 a piece.

"The first set of clothes I need is basic in nature, it is a
set of black and white. Then, I will switch to other colors in
various styles to complement my collection," said Rani, who is
fond of mixing and matching various sets from her wardrobe to
create the impression of a different look.

"Youths often feel they need something different, something
that is new in appearance," said Widarti Gunawan, chief editor of
the youth magazine Gadis (Girl), which like other youth magazines
continues to appear regularly amid the crisis.

She added that "What is important to remember is that youths
buy magazines with their parents' money, not out of their own
pockets. Even with reduced pocket money, the youths will only
lower the quality of their purchases, e.g. if they cannot afford
to buy shoes they will resort to sandals. By doing so they create
'something new' that is different in their fashion."

The key word is apparently the courage to look different.

"Youths shape a generation that looks for identity. The need
to look different from their parents and siblings becomes highly
important," said John de Rantau, a film director who often makes
films on youths.

"The search for an identity is a typically romantic trait of
youth. The easiest solution they can find is through a statement
of how they dress," added the 30-year-old director of youth drama
serial Ali Topan Anak Jalanan (Ali Topan, the Street Kid). John,
in presenting the character of Ali Topan, has dressed him
typically in a loose shirt, a leather jacket, jeans and boots.

"I intentionally chose a 'uniform' that is practical but with
a mixture of elements for Ali Topan who is a typically youthful
'rebel without a cause' character to describe his dynamism and at
the same time his struggle with his identity," added John, whose
latest youth drama serial Debu Tertiup Angin (Dust in the Wind)
is currently in circulation.

Youths dare to promptly absorb various elements. The
phenomenon is seen as a translation of a different style.

"Fashion is not only dominated by the classic conservative, it
now belongs to the youth who are free, expressive, even leaving
the norms of dressing," say Era Mirnayanti and Ichwan Toha on the
Urban Crew trademark youth clothing.

They daringly developed the business precisely at the
beginning of the monetary crisis some two years ago, with the
cheapest item being a blouse at Rp 58,000.

Era and Ichwan, both in their 20s, have earmarked the main
market target of male and female youths in the 15 to 25 age
group.

"The secondary market target is males and females aged between
26 and 35 with a middle or higher income," said Ichwan.

Ichwan, who studied the art of clothes design at Lasalle
International Fashion College in Singapore, explained the
attitude of youths in this collection as "funky, androgynous,
pretty boy and handsome girl. So, Urban Crew sells alternative
clothes and lifestyle so they are not just fashion items."

The choice of unisex apparel has become more solid as a choice
of youths. From Prada's latest to Biyan's newest collection,
(X)SML is offering more and more outfits of this kind.

"Our designers must be prepared with a borderless orientation.
It is suitable for our youths and it also appeals to
international consumers," said Biyan, who for the past year has
been busy developing major boutiques in the Singaporean and
Australian markets.