Yogyakarta's courtiers dedicate lives to serving sultans

By Ahmad Solikhan

YOGYAKARTA (JP): Old men in traditional Javanese outfits, complete with blangkon (headdress) and carrying a kris on their back were observed hurriedly entering the gate of the keraton (palace).

It was almost 8 a.m., the time when foreign and domestic tourists would start entering the courtyard to gain admission tickets to the court museum. In this place, historical objects left by the Mataram kingdom are neatly arranged. Each room in the museum is guarded by abdi dalem (court servants) who are available to impart information to visitors. The court building shows its age but it is well maintained. Fragrant shady trees grow in the yard. Songs presented by pesinden (women singers), which are accompanied by a Javanese melody, seem to hypnotize visitors as they enter this world of the past.

The Yogyakarta Sultanate court on 14,000-square meters of land continues to develop Javanese cultural traditions. It is supported by some 1,500 abdi dalem, including 86 women, who work in 16 different departments, from keraton government affairs and ritual and funeral affairs to public communication and tourism matters.

According to KRT Condrodipuro, 84, a court official, the majority of the abdi dalem come from Yogyakarta and Central Java. They are aged 30 years and over and have various professions. They receive a kekucah (payment) of between Rp 3,500 and Rp 40,000 a month. The small salary does not deter the abdi dalem from accepting the gratuity with thanks. The protracted economic crisis does not lead them to protest or demonstrate in demand for a raise. Even without a salary, they continue to be loyal and resigned to perform their duty well.

To be an abdi dalem, one has to be between 17 and 40 years old, except for persons with certain skills, such as experts on Javanese literature, wayang (shadow play) and dance.

It is not easy to become an abdi dalem. Prior to entering the service, candidates must be able to show good conduct in their life and their etiquette. After a minimum six month period, having fulfilled the criteria, they are entitled to become jajar (the lowest among keraton employees). They then continue their training and receive a monthly payment of Rp 3,500.

"The level of education is not important, but skill in the cultural field is of the essence," said Condrodipuro who has served for 60 years.

Four years after entering the service, employees can obtain the title of bekel enom (the first rank). The abdi dalem can wear the traditional clothes with belangkon and kris and they receive Rp 5,000 a month.

Not all abdi dalem have to report for duty every day. It depends on the type of work performed.

In fact, the court only requires 1,000 abdi dalem. In 1982 it decided not to recruit any new candidates.

"Now there are 85 candidates abdi dalem who have not been appointed, even they entered the service in 1981," Condrodipuro said.

Abdi dalem who have served more than five years are allowed to make a request for magersari (land used in connection with their work) facilities. The application can be made under the condition that the applicant lacks a house and agricultural land of his own, as well as being without a permanent job. The magersari land usually granted ranges in size from 100 to 200 square meters, or is dependent on the available land owned by the court.

KGPH Hadiwinoto, third son of Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX, says an abdi dalem can obtain magersari land under the condition that if at anytime the court needs the land, the abdi dalem must be prepared to move with an indemnity not higher than the value of the building on the land. Hadiwinoto says he does not know exactly how much land the keraton owns because the plots are scattered around the Yogyakarta area.

Raden Riyo Ciptodipuro, 57, says that in his abdi dalem work he has not had to face any economic obstacles in his household, even though his salary is only Rp 25,000 per month. He has the use of a gift from Sri Sultan in the form of magersari land measuring 200 square meters in Bibis village, Guwosari, Pajangan, Bantul.

"I have turned the vacant lot into agricultural land to feed my family," Ciptodipuro, a father of three, explains.

Ciptodipuro says that to dedicate oneself to the work of an abdi dalem is not only about finding worldly enjoyment and obtaining a title. The calling involves a search for spiritual peace and protection by the wahyu (divine revelation) of the court.

Kuwuryantoro, 37, who is still a candidate employee, says the benefit of the protection given to an abdi dalem cannot be measured by material standards. He said that in order to receive the benefit one's thoughts must be resigned. If this is not the case, there is no use becoming an abdi dalem. He said one must live one's life in a resigned way, accept it as it is. "The Javanese philosophy says in life man only drops by to drink, to die, it is an obligation," Kuwuryantoro says.

The court also has about 600 soldiers. They are not classified as abdi dalem. They do not receives titles, salaries or magersari land because they are only required to work three times a year. These occasions are the Grebeg Maulud (festival commemorating the birth of the Prophet Mohammad), Grebeg Besar (day of sacrifice) and Idul Fitri (festival at the end of the Muslim fasting month).