Yogyakarta's courtiers dedicate lives to serving sultans

Yogyakarta's courtiers dedicate lives to serving sultans

By Ahmad Solikhan

YOGYAKARTA (JP): Old men in traditional Javanese outfits,
complete with blangkon (headdress) and carrying a kris on their
back were observed hurriedly entering the gate of the keraton
(palace).

It was almost 8 a.m., the time when foreign and domestic
tourists would start entering the courtyard to gain admission
tickets to the court museum. In this place, historical objects
left by the Mataram kingdom are neatly arranged. Each room in the
museum is guarded by abdi dalem (court servants) who are
available to impart information to visitors. The court building
shows its age but it is well maintained. Fragrant shady trees
grow in the yard. Songs presented by pesinden (women singers),
which are accompanied by a Javanese melody, seem to hypnotize
visitors as they enter this world of the past.

The Yogyakarta Sultanate court on 14,000-square meters of land
continues to develop Javanese cultural traditions. It is
supported by some 1,500 abdi dalem, including 86 women, who work
in 16 different departments, from keraton government affairs and
ritual and funeral affairs to public communication and tourism
matters.

According to KRT Condrodipuro, 84, a court official, the
majority of the abdi dalem come from Yogyakarta and Central Java.
They are aged 30 years and over and have various professions.
They receive a kekucah (payment) of between Rp 3,500 and Rp
40,000 a month. The small salary does not deter the abdi dalem
from accepting the gratuity with thanks. The protracted economic
crisis does not lead them to protest or demonstrate in demand for
a raise. Even without a salary, they continue to be loyal and
resigned to perform their duty well.

To be an abdi dalem, one has to be between 17 and 40 years
old, except for persons with certain skills, such as experts on
Javanese literature, wayang (shadow play) and dance.

It is not easy to become an abdi dalem. Prior to entering the
service, candidates must be able to show good conduct in their
life and their etiquette. After a minimum six month period,
having fulfilled the criteria, they are entitled to become jajar
(the lowest among keraton employees). They then continue their
training and receive a monthly payment of Rp 3,500.

"The level of education is not important, but skill in the
cultural field is of the essence," said Condrodipuro who has
served for 60 years.

Four years after entering the service, employees can obtain
the title of bekel enom (the first rank). The abdi dalem can wear
the traditional clothes with belangkon and kris and they receive
Rp 5,000 a month.

Not all abdi dalem have to report for duty every day. It
depends on the type of work performed.

In fact, the court only requires 1,000 abdi dalem. In 1982 it
decided not to recruit any new candidates.

"Now there are 85 candidates abdi dalem who have not been
appointed, even they entered the service in 1981," Condrodipuro
said.

Abdi dalem who have served more than five years are allowed to
make a request for magersari (land used in connection with their
work) facilities. The application can be made under the condition
that the applicant lacks a house and agricultural land of his
own, as well as being without a permanent job. The magersari land
usually granted ranges in size from 100 to 200 square meters, or
is dependent on the available land owned by the court.

KGPH Hadiwinoto, third son of Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX,
says an abdi dalem can obtain magersari land under the condition
that if at anytime the court needs the land, the abdi dalem must
be prepared to move with an indemnity not higher than the value
of the building on the land. Hadiwinoto says he does not know
exactly how much land the keraton owns because the plots are
scattered around the Yogyakarta area.

Raden Riyo Ciptodipuro, 57, says that in his abdi dalem work
he has not had to face any economic obstacles in his household,
even though his salary is only Rp 25,000 per month. He has the
use of a gift from Sri Sultan in the form of magersari land
measuring 200 square meters in Bibis village, Guwosari, Pajangan,
Bantul.

"I have turned the vacant lot into agricultural land to feed
my family," Ciptodipuro, a father of three, explains.

Ciptodipuro says that to dedicate oneself to the work of an
abdi dalem is not only about finding worldly enjoyment and
obtaining a title. The calling involves a search for spiritual
peace and protection by the wahyu (divine revelation) of the
court.

Kuwuryantoro, 37, who is still a candidate employee, says the
benefit of the protection given to an abdi dalem cannot be
measured by material standards. He said that in order to receive
the benefit one's thoughts must be resigned. If this is not the
case, there is no use becoming an abdi dalem. He said one must
live one's life in a resigned way, accept it as it is. "The
Javanese philosophy says in life man only drops by to drink, to
die, it is an obligation," Kuwuryantoro says.

The court also has about 600 soldiers. They are not classified
as abdi dalem. They do not receives titles, salaries or magersari
land because they are only required to work three times a year.
These occasions are the Grebeg Maulud (festival commemorating the
birth of the Prophet Mohammad), Grebeg Besar (day of sacrifice)
and Idul Fitri (festival at the end of the Muslim fasting month).