Yogyakarta Labuhan ritual honors an ancient queen

By Tarko Sudiarno

YOGYAKARTA (JP): The waves, four times the height of an adult man, came crashing down on the hundreds of people gathered on Parangkusumo beach, Bantul, Yogyakarta.

Their screams rang out as they took part in the Labuhan Sura ceremony on the beach south of Central Java.

"Watch out, don't go too far from the shore," a member of the Coast SAR team shouted repeatedly through a megaphone.

But the people, caught up in the excitement, ignored his warnings.

Some of them hit each other in the frenzy as they struggled to seize the offerings of food, batik clothes and flowers which had been flung into the sea by ceremony officials.

"I've had a tough day, I cut my hand when I was hit by an ancak (slab of bamboo bearing the offerings), but I didn't get anything," Suyanto from Sukoharjo, Central Java, said.

Mrs. Atmo from Bantul, Yogyakarta, had better luck.

The elderly woman knew there was no point in her trying to struggle with younger people, so she waited on the shore. But the waves washed down to her patch on the sand, drenching her batik dress.

Then, in what she called a "flash of luck", three flower offerings appeared from the foam and came to rest in her lap.

"It came to me without a single effort from me," Mrs. Atmo said with a smile of happiness.

This ceremony was initiated by Hondodento Institute, a cultural and heritage organization, and participated in by tens of thousands of people from various cities in Java, Sumatra, Kalimantan and Irian Jaya.

The ceremony involves the presentation of labuhan (offerings) in a tradition believed to date back to Panembahan Senopati, the founder of the Mataram kingdom. They say the king of Mataram, who loved to practice this spiritual rite, established a special relationship with the ruler of the Indian Ocean.

Many Central Javanese continue to believe that a second royal kingdom, in addition to Yogyakarta's monarchy, dwells in the ocean, which is known in the country as the Indonesian Ocean, with Kanjeng Gusti Ratu Kidul, the Queen of the South Sea.

The belief is that the queen regards all the descendants of the founder as her husband. As a token of gratitude to her and God, the kings of Mataram conducted the Labuhan ceremony.

"But besides that, we also have the intention, with this ceremony, of begging Almighty God to protect the state and people of Indonesia so that they are safe and prosperous," said the chairman of the organizing committee, Sunarko.

Many people also believe that participating in the ceremony will bring good fortune if they can snatch some of the offerings. But others try to take advantage of the occasion by grabbing the gifts, and then selling them to other people.

Warm reception

Hondodento Institute has conducted 27 of the ceremonies, but the one in early April was given an especially warm reception.

Thousands of people crowded Parangkusumo beach from the night before, and a long line of four-wheeled vehicles queued to enter the area. Many people were drawn to the ceremony because of a rumor that a special figure would attend.

The organizing committee also acknowledged they had received information from shamans that from the thousands of visitors, there would emerge a leader capable of leading this country to prosperity. The rumor was that he would associate with the visitors in an extremely low profile way.

"But it all depends on their respective beliefs," said Sunarko, who is also the head of the institute.

A day before the ceremony, the various offerings -- including rice dishes and snacks -- were prepared. The following day, the people gathered on the beach, at the supposed "reception hall" of the kingdom, and a procession two kilometers long began. At the helm were two people on horses, with girls in traditional kebaya blouses walking directly behind them.

When they arrived at Parang Kusumo beach for the actual ceremony, all participants sat cross-legged facing the ocean. Led by the Parang Kusumo caretaker in this area, the ceremony began with a announcement to Kanjeng Gusti Ratu Kidul, that the labuhan was ready to be offered.

One by one the carriers of the offerings walked slowly away from the shore into the coming waves. Hundreds of people, ignoring any concerns for their personal safety, followed the carriers into the sea, farther and deeper.

After the offerings, a prayer was said to God and to the queen, who once again had received her offerings from the faithful who come year after year to pay homage.