Woven journey of Indian silk makes a pit stop in Jakarta

By Pavan Kapoor

JAKARTA (JP): Elementary history and advanced fashion -- ethnic Indonesian kebayas and Indian silk -- seemed to have taken a spin in a high-speed mixer to be churned out in a collection of ready-to-wear apparel for "An Evening with Silk".

It was only fitting as the countries share a heritage of silk fabric and weave since time immemorial. There has been a consistent "silk dialog" between the two, with Indian silk now an integral part of the Indonesian woman's wardrobe.

The idea for last Friday's event was to reawaken the dormant dialog through versatile designer Ghea Panggabean and her individual style. She splurges in the remixes of the ethnic backgrounds of the fabrics, costumes and accessories of various Eastern countries into a cocktail of haute couture.

The evening was graced by members of President Soeharto's family, Minister of Education and Culture Wardiman Djojonegoro and State Minister of Population/Chairman of the National Family Planning Board (BKKBN) Haryono Suyono, who delivered speeches commemorating the golden jubilee celebrations of India's independence. Top designers such as Iwan Tirta were also in attendance.

"Our countries are very linked," Ghea said. "Everywhere I go, I am inspired by the mysticism, folklore or legend of the region. I find that, like in India, our textiles mirror the histories of the weavers and the wearers. They are fine examples of living tradition that mean a great deal to people. The dedication to beauty throughout India is so complete That it must be celebrated with gusto."

But Ghea has also become a source of inspiration for the many Indian designers based in Indonesia.

"Her clothes range from garments to pret-a-porter deluxe," said Sonu Kapoor, an Indian designer from Medan invited for the show. Although the number of western designer brands have made a grand entry into the market, many Indonesian women are extremely attracted to the idea of a renaissance in ethnic Indian textiles, which in most cases are works of art in themselves."

Indian ethnic silks and embroideries were modeled on stage by Indian women residing in Jakarta, followed by Ghea's fashion show in five sequences.

The first sequence consisted of a stunning collection of the age-old Tussar silk with traditional Kantha embroidery. The stitches of the Kantha are the simplest running stitch, endogenously employed. The embroidery expresses a luminous power (sakti), working its symbolism through innumerable disciplined stitches.

Pantsuits, sleek sarongs and well-defined pure silk jackets in serene beige, fawn and creams garnished with sober woven borders in ethnic gold and red brought the house down.

The second sequence consisted of the rich patollas, which are similar to Indonesian woven ikat. The sixth and seventh century frescos on the Ajanta caves depict monks wearing clothes with ikat-like designs. This is also seen on reliefs on temples in Bali where the double ikat is popular.

Then came the exotic and royal Jamavars in white, creams and golds. Sheer Dupatta shawls -- considered the icing on the cake -- were wrapped in imaginative styles or just hypnotically flowed in the wake of gliding models. Ghea concentrated on earthy colors.

To the haunting drumbeats of Arabian-Indian melodies, the fourth sequence commenced with mirror-work apparels.

Imaginatively employed, the vibrant colored mirror work from the state of Rajasthan and Gujarat was teased around collars, cuffs, the bodice of Nehru jackets and skirts. The bright colors of the Bandhni tie and dye prints, so much like the ethnic Indonesian jumputan, was laureled as king of the evening in the form of gowns, turbans or just a sash tied around the waist.

Plucking a wisp from the Middle Ages, Ghea's last sequence of the evening comprised cocktail dresses and toga-style sheer gowns. Fusing silk and chiffons, the outfits seemed to draw the attention of almost all the audience.

An artistic and informative coffee table catalog offered vibrant photographs and informative texts on the major Indian weaves, silks and embroideries. There was also a stunning exhibition of a wide array of Indian saris.

Support of charitable causes has always been popular among members of the Indian business community. Gopi Punjabi, president of the Indian Women's Association, presented a check of Rp 50 million to Minister Wardiman for a project on women and children's welfare.