Widhi's accent on elegance

Muara Bagdja, Contributor, Jakarta

The sumptuousness of bustiers and dresses with trains, bathed in glittering sequins and beads, has figured prominently in various fashion shows by Indonesian designers over the last few months -- a style apparently more suited to a red carpet than the demands of daily activity.

But the collection of designer Widhi Budimulia, presented at Hotel Sari Pan Pacific in Jakarta last week, tried to dispel the air of formality by demonstrating the same elegance in a light and realistic way.

In his hands, a gray suit or a sleeveless blouse with a wide skirt to match, derived from the summer dress style, appeared appropriate for office use or a cosmopolitan women's cocktail party.

Organized with modesty and intimacy in a room limited to no more than 250 onlookers, the show allowed the audience to grasp the designer's message through its neat, brief choreography.

"I prefer smaller shows to entertainment-like events. The concept of this program is to get closer to consumers by introducing a widely acceptable collection," said Widhi Budimulia.

He's right. His selection was rational and highly practical, particularly the first set of creations presenting designs of two to three pieces for noon until cocktail time.

For instance, there was the short or long bronze jacket combined with a practical, narrow knee-length or wide skirt. The designs were enhanced by bits of unfinished material currently in vogue for elegant attire, shifting from the increasingly monotonous sequins and beads.

Widhi's evening gowns, too, were designed in shapes with extreme patterns or fantastic extensions.

"I want to change consumers' perception that designers' products are expensive and only for the upper class. I don't like to hear them wondering: 'What occasions would suit these clothes?'" he said.

Although making his solo fashion show debut, Widhi has been part of the country's fashion circles since 1986, when he won third place and the title of most favorite participant in a fashion designers contest. His capability led him to Susan Budihardjo's design teaching institute as an instructor until 1994.

In 1989 Widhi started receiving clients at home, and gave up his study of urban landscape design.

After joining the Indonesian Fashion Designers Association, he has frequently participated in joint fashion shows. He is also known as a bridal gown designer, and he displayed his wedding gowns at Bali Fashion Week in 2000.

He decided to make his solo debut this year in response to client demand for more complete exposure of his latest works, and he said he was also better prepared mentally than in previous years.

Widhi realizes that, under today's economic conditions, most consumers have no way of spending a lot of money on special attire only to be used occasionally. Therefore, he has applied what he calls the mix-and-match principle to produce ready-to- wear garments.

This concept was clearly reflected at the beginning of the show, when he presented, for example, a ruffled brown blouse combined with a straight skirt. But this same skirt later showed up with another matching blouse.

Likewise, the gray suit was coupled with two-color-toned shoes, while its design also went well in various combinations, including laced skirt variations. All these alternatives gave consumers ideas on how to dress economically.

Some of his designs, such as the sleeveless blouse and wide skirt, were reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn's "Roman Holiday" style in the 1950s, a mood accentuated by the playing of Frank Sinatra's song Fly me to the moon as the models went down the catwalk.

Widhi said that his innovations were inspired by the styles of legendary stars like Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe and Hepburn, characterized by their classical and stylish appearance.

"I like the elegance of these legends. Though they lived a fairly long time ago, people still love them due to their charisma," Widhi said.

In addition to the light and realistic designs, Widhi's neatly sewn attire makes even modest dresses look classy.

"Finishing touches and quality are important to me. A gown using less costly material will look attractive and expensive if sewn neatly and with precision," he added.

One important thing was missing, however, and that was a brand image from the designer, to distinguish him from the sea of his peers with their distinctive creations. It's simply because the mix-and-match concept and neat finishing are not only his domain, but are shared by many other designers.

The collection he presented should have been his chance to display his own charisma, just as his legendary idols, the inspiration for his works, showed theirs during their lifetimes.