Sun, 09 Jan 2005

... what about the food

Rick, expatriate, 37: My friend had read about Dapur Babah in a glowing review in Kompas, so we decided to try it out. He is much more of a foodie than me -- he knows all about the tradition of Peranakan cuisine, and also about real Dutch food -- so I was in good, knowledgeable hands when it comes to sussing out if this was all style and no substance.

I cannot say that we were overly impressed. The decor is really something to write about, although we both felt the mixed themes going on -- the Khmer stuff, along with the giant palm trees, plus what looked like Easter Island edifices -- all a bit overpowering.

The same could be said for the menu; it's so big, with so many pages of different food items, that it's hard to make a choice or figure out what's going on. One of us quipped that we were full before we had even started eating!

My friend had the Dutch salad, which he immediately pointed out to me was not really genuine because it lacked beetroot -- an essential ingredient.

We both settled for the combination plates from the Indonesian/Peranakan part of the menu. Huge, groaning plates they were, but most of the food items were cold, which we interpreted as the place not being quite up and running. It was OK stuff, but nothing I would schlepp my sorry self across town, dodging traffic jams, to feast on.

It may be early days yet, but the owners should remember that the decor may pique your curiosity, but it's good food that will get you coming back for more.