Western fare knocks traditional RI dishes off the menu

By Rita A. Widiadana

JAKARTA (JP): They may be swimming in fat and laden with calories, but pizza, hamburgers, hot dogs and other Western dishes are threatening to supplant traditional Indonesian cuisine.

Proof in the pudding? Just visit one of the sprawling malls in Jakarta and other major cities in the country. Local food outlets are finding it hard going against the onslaught of inviting international chain restaurants, seemingly always crowded with young and old alike.

"Clean, tasty, quick and trendy are the reasons why we like this food," said Nadya, a university student visiting Plaza Senayan's food court.

State Minister of Food Ibrahim Hassan, a tireless promoter of traditional food, is disturbed by the growing love affair with foreign fast food.

"I am very concerned that young people have begun to lose their appetite for local cuisine," the minister said in a recent seminar on traditional food at the University of Indonesia in Depok, West Java.

Ibrahim said the government launched the Aku Cinta Makanan Indonesia (I Love Indonesian Food) campaign to save traditional food from becoming a curiosity for the younger generation.

It is also intended to offer more alternatives to the deluge of restaurants serving only Western and other foreign food.

Emma S. Wirakusumah, executive director of the Nutritional Trend Agency, said popularity of foreign food was unavoidable.

She said globalization had allowed KFC, Pizza Hut, McDonald's and other fast food franchises to set up business and establish a market niche. The same was true of international theme restaurants such as the Hard Rock Cafe and Fashion Cafe.

"Foreign food, fast food in particular, is enjoyed by many people and it is impossible to prevent them from eating these types of meals," Emma said. "Neither can we restrict the operation of restaurants serving foreign food here."

Changes in eating habits of Indonesians are linked to increased purchasing power and economic development, she said.

"People flock to restaurants and foodstalls in Jakarta and other big cities to dine out and taste a vast array of food," said Emma, also a lecturer at the Bogor University of Agriculture.

Franchises took off in Indonesia in 1991 with the entry of McDonald's and a host of new fast food outlets.

Ministry of Industry and Trade data shows foreign franchises in Indonesia increased by 18.5 percent in 1996, while local franchises rose 13 percent. There were 141 foreign franchises at the end of last year from 119 in 1995, but just 26 local franchises.

Is there cause for panic? Emma thinks not, believing "it is just a temporary trend among people, particularly those living in big cities."

But she said there should be efforts to make local cuisine more appealing to today's consumers. Foreign foods bear pluses of attractive packaging and fast, hygienic preparation.

There is also the status element borrowed from the old saying "you are what you eat". "For many people, eating Western fast food or haute cuisine can boost their social status since the price is quite expensive," Emma said.

Local recipes should be recorded for posterity. "Culinary traditions are part of our culture and we have thousands of indigenous dishes. If we don't preserve them, we will lose these valuable assets."

How do the cuisines rank nutritionally against balanced nutritional guidelines recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO) to ward off various degenerative diseases?

WHO advised that daily nutritional intake should be composed of 50-70 percent protein, 10-15 percent fat, less than 10 percent sugar and 6 percent sodium. Also recommended was consumption of 16-24 grams of fiber.

Traditional diets of farmers and people living in rural communities are in line with the WHO guidelines, according to nutritionist Drupadi Dillon.

"Indonesian people had balanced diets long before modernization hit our lives, and we should maintain this healthy lifestyle," Drupadi said.

Many traditional dishes are highly nutritious and full of vitamins, minerals and fiber, she said, adding that their nutritional benefits outshone Western "junk" meals.

A traditional breakfast of 100 grams of steamed cassava is rich in complex carbohydrates for sustained energy, high in fiber and a good source of vitamins A and C, Drupadi said.

In contrast, an English muffin with butter has 295 calories, 7.9 grams protein, 7.9 grams fat and 47.6 grams carbohydrate, with little fiber. (see table)

An Indonesian lunch of rice, gado-gado (vegetables with peanut sauce) and a piece of broiled chicken is high in protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and fiber, but low in fat and calories.

But fast food does not have to a dietary disaster. Germany's Maenner Vogue magazine reported in a recent edition that wise choices can make for a nutritionally balanced meal.

Beneficial

There were nutritionally beneficial dishes found in fast food meals analyzed by nutrition expert Helmut Erbersdobler of Munich's Kiel University.

Potatoes retain their high vitamin C content and valuable fiber even in the form of french fries. Anyone who substitutes vegetable oil for cheap fat and goes easy on ketchup (high in sodium) and mayonnaise (almost pure fat and high in calories) need have few pangs of conscience while eating a moderate portion of fries, the study found.

Hamburgers made of lean meat are rich in iron and protein, and do not contain much fat or sodium if they are eaten without cheese, mayonnaise and salty condiments. They almost qualify as healthy fare if broiled and eaten with salad and a condiment such as mustard, which has no calories and is fat free.

Hot dogs are high in vitamin B1 but full of sodium. A doner kebab provides almost the entire daily recommended iron intake, as well as folic acid and vitamins B1 and C. But it should be eaten sparingly because of its high caloric content.

Erbersdobler said a slice of pizza was healthy if heaped with vegetables and little cheese used. Better still was pizza made with a wholewheat crust.

Ranking among the best fast food choices of all are baked potatoes, high in fiber and complex carbohydrates, as long as toppings such as cheese and chili are used in moderation. A salad bar is also good news for the nutritionally aware, although salad dressings should be avoided.

Drupadi said people did not have to make an "either-or" choice of foreign or Indonesian food.

"We have to promote our local food, but there is nothing wrong in eating other kinds of meals as long as they give you the necessary energy, protein, vitamins and other nutrition."