Watch display revisits era of timeless elegance

Watch display revisits era of timeless elegance

By Yogita Tahil Ramani

JAKARTA (JP): Time seems cradled in showcases, with straps of
hand-sewn crocodile skin and soft leather on gleaming gold, jewel
and diamond-encrusted watches in no way compromise timing.

Although a watch exhibition at the Financial Club at Niaga
Tower does not boast the industry's most celebrated names like
Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget and Audemars Piguet,
each timepiece is still a true solitaire for the wrist.

In keeping with the colloquial definition of timing precision:
"A watch is one that performs like a Swiss watch", the
exhibition, from Oct. 31 to Nov. 5, introduces an imaginative
generation of Swiss watchmakers -- Tavernier, Antoine Prezuiso,
Sarcar, Forget, Jean Kazes and Delance -- with timepieces that
are exquisitely handmade.

The watches mantle their sophisticated inner workings, giving
glimpses of eras gone by and living true to time pieces found in
liberalized times.

There are exceptional stand-out pieces. Prezuiso demonstrates
a quiet sobriety with the technical designs of his hand-painted
watch and Tavernier creates an exclusive style with sparkling
rubies and diamonds intricately set on an 18 carat gold watch.

There is Sarcar's eccentricity with his diamond-studded golf
designs, and Forget's -- it's accented -- sporty elegance and
pragmatism with chronographic features and "railway" straps in
steel. And last but not least, there is Kazes's scientific
extravagance with an abstract mechanical table clock and
Delance's femininity with threads of gold to hug a wrist.

"If you want art and science, you take a look at Jean Kazes,"
said watch exhibition promoter Natalia Signoroni.

A mechanical engineer of Swiss origin, Jean Kazes has been
known for his pendulums and sculptural clocks since 1972.

"His compositions give you readings of calendars, astronomic
scenes and universal time," Natalia says.

The works of art straddle the line nicely between the
technical nature of the craft and contemporary esthetics.

Antoine Prezuiso is a master craftsman who plays with animated
decors -- his collections offer flavorful chronographs and
skeletoned watches. The Sienna mechanical watch on sale has 21
rubies on an 18 carat solid gold casing. As if a dial in marble
and a crocodile skin strap were not enough, the glass is composed
of antireflective sapphire.

Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne, was an exceptional
watchmaker obsessed with the idea of harmonizing the solidity of
diamonds, with perfected timing.

Born in the 17th century in Anvers, the Netherlands, Tavernier
was the first to describe the Koh-i-Noor diamond for the court of
Louis XIV, and presented him with the then notoriously-believed
life-threatening Hope diamond. His collection of butterfly
watches with settings of diamonds, rubies, corals and emeralds
reflects the luxury and distinction that corresponds with an
exclusive clientele, seeking highly individualized products.

Carlo Sarzano was born in Sao Paulo, Brazil and founded Sarcar
in 1948, with wife Paulette Sarzano. The genius in his works lies
in the setting of gemstones on "exceptional ideas" that does not
have any influence on the movement of the watch.

From planes, horses, signs of the zodiac to golf-sticks, the
hands of Sarcar watches move indelibly with various turning
elements. These rotating elements have a small weight hidden on
the back of each to unbalance it, allowing it to swivel around as
the watch follows the rotations of the wrist.

Delance embodies femininity, proposing watches of bold and
symbolic designs. The diamond-shape, cabochon, spiral and the
"endless" clasp is said to lend the watch its great emotional
appeal and value.

Watches are designed with spiraling threads of the bracelet
"springing out of the case like a waterfall, delicately hugging
the wrist," Natalia says.

To make each watch unique, gems can be mounted in "36
different ways on the case," she adds.

The Forget automatic chronometers, distinguished by their
styling, feature a wide choice of functions -- there is the lunar
cycle, days and dates, as well as various custom and handmade
dials.

The difference: a patented clasp that makes changing the
bracelet a snap. Every Forget timepiece comes with two bracelets
-- one in crocodile, the other in the chosen metal which is
usually iron or gold.

The collections are priced between US$5,000 and $29,200 and
all proceeds will go to the Indonesian Aids Foundation as well as
the victims of the natural disaster in Irian Jaya.

The charity event -- which includes a fashion show and a
painting exhibition -- was opened by Minister of Tourism, Post
and Telecommunication Joop Ave on Oct. 21 at the Regent Hotel
where it was held until Oct. 30.

The exhibition, which moved to Niaga Tower since Friday, is a
collaboration between the multimedia and publishing company
International Quality Publications and the Indonesian Aids
Foundation.