Watch display revisits era of timeless elegance
By Yogita Tahil Ramani
JAKARTA (JP): Time seems cradled in showcases, with straps of hand-sewn crocodile skin and soft leather on gleaming gold, jewel and diamond-encrusted watches in no way compromise timing.
Although a watch exhibition at the Financial Club at Niaga Tower does not boast the industry's most celebrated names like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget and Audemars Piguet, each timepiece is still a true solitaire for the wrist.
In keeping with the colloquial definition of timing precision: "A watch is one that performs like a Swiss watch", the exhibition, from Oct. 31 to Nov. 5, introduces an imaginative generation of Swiss watchmakers -- Tavernier, Antoine Prezuiso, Sarcar, Forget, Jean Kazes and Delance -- with timepieces that are exquisitely handmade.
The watches mantle their sophisticated inner workings, giving glimpses of eras gone by and living true to time pieces found in liberalized times.
There are exceptional stand-out pieces. Prezuiso demonstrates a quiet sobriety with the technical designs of his hand-painted watch and Tavernier creates an exclusive style with sparkling rubies and diamonds intricately set on an 18 carat gold watch.
There is Sarcar's eccentricity with his diamond-studded golf designs, and Forget's -- it's accented -- sporty elegance and pragmatism with chronographic features and "railway" straps in steel. And last but not least, there is Kazes's scientific extravagance with an abstract mechanical table clock and Delance's femininity with threads of gold to hug a wrist.
"If you want art and science, you take a look at Jean Kazes," said watch exhibition promoter Natalia Signoroni.
A mechanical engineer of Swiss origin, Jean Kazes has been known for his pendulums and sculptural clocks since 1972.
"His compositions give you readings of calendars, astronomic scenes and universal time," Natalia says.
The works of art straddle the line nicely between the technical nature of the craft and contemporary esthetics.
Antoine Prezuiso is a master craftsman who plays with animated decors -- his collections offer flavorful chronographs and skeletoned watches. The Sienna mechanical watch on sale has 21 rubies on an 18 carat solid gold casing. As if a dial in marble and a crocodile skin strap were not enough, the glass is composed of antireflective sapphire.
Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne, was an exceptional watchmaker obsessed with the idea of harmonizing the solidity of diamonds, with perfected timing.
Born in the 17th century in Anvers, the Netherlands, Tavernier was the first to describe the Koh-i-Noor diamond for the court of Louis XIV, and presented him with the then notoriously-believed life-threatening Hope diamond. His collection of butterfly watches with settings of diamonds, rubies, corals and emeralds reflects the luxury and distinction that corresponds with an exclusive clientele, seeking highly individualized products.
Carlo Sarzano was born in Sao Paulo, Brazil and founded Sarcar in 1948, with wife Paulette Sarzano. The genius in his works lies in the setting of gemstones on "exceptional ideas" that does not have any influence on the movement of the watch.
From planes, horses, signs of the zodiac to golf-sticks, the hands of Sarcar watches move indelibly with various turning elements. These rotating elements have a small weight hidden on the back of each to unbalance it, allowing it to swivel around as the watch follows the rotations of the wrist.
Delance embodies femininity, proposing watches of bold and symbolic designs. The diamond-shape, cabochon, spiral and the "endless" clasp is said to lend the watch its great emotional appeal and value.
Watches are designed with spiraling threads of the bracelet "springing out of the case like a waterfall, delicately hugging the wrist," Natalia says.
To make each watch unique, gems can be mounted in "36 different ways on the case," she adds.
The Forget automatic chronometers, distinguished by their styling, feature a wide choice of functions -- there is the lunar cycle, days and dates, as well as various custom and handmade dials.
The difference: a patented clasp that makes changing the bracelet a snap. Every Forget timepiece comes with two bracelets -- one in crocodile, the other in the chosen metal which is usually iron or gold.
The collections are priced between US$5,000 and $29,200 and all proceeds will go to the Indonesian Aids Foundation as well as the victims of the natural disaster in Irian Jaya.
The charity event -- which includes a fashion show and a painting exhibition -- was opened by Minister of Tourism, Post and Telecommunication Joop Ave on Oct. 21 at the Regent Hotel where it was held until Oct. 30.
The exhibition, which moved to Niaga Tower since Friday, is a collaboration between the multimedia and publishing company International Quality Publications and the Indonesian Aids Foundation.