Walk on the wild side and explore the other face of Bali

As far as tourism is concerned, West Bali has remained less explored. Aware of its tremendous potential, Bali is looking west for future tourism. Upon the invitation of Conservation International Indonesia, The Jakarta Post's Pandaya recently visited West Bali National Park which is being developed into an ecotourist destination.

WEST BALI NATIONAL PARK (JP): There could be a thousand reasons why people do not like going to the forest for their vacation.

Holiday adventures like jungle trekking, whitewater rafting and mountain climbing are popular among backpackers, especially those who have plenty of time on their side.

For the typical rich holidaymaker, holidays in the forest might mean that he would miss hospitality services, the limousine, the hotel, the golf course and the fine wining and dining.

But the fear of losing these luxuries will be disappearing very soon if you go to West Bali National Park, a tropical jungle on the holiday heaven internationally extolled for its sun, sea, sand and cultural charms.

Some upscale resorts have been in operation and more will open to the public within or close to the park.

Currently, Bali's population of three million is concentrated in the eastern half of the 5,632 km2 island so it is no wonder most activities take place there.

So if you have had enough of sunbathing on the beaches of Kuta or Sanur, if your skin has tanned and if you still have time, go west and explore the other side of Bali.

That buzzword, "the other side of Bali", has been coined to promote the natural beauty of west Bali, the sparsely-populated wing of the island. The topography consists largely of forested highland in the middle and farmland in the lower peripheries.

The western part, which is divided horizontally between the regencies of Buleleng in the north and Jembrana in the south, has long suffered less developed tourist facilities. There are few star-rated hotels, and no discotheques or other places of night entertainment.

Luxury in the jungle

The Bali provincial government is serious about developing the almost 20,000 hectare park into a tourist attraction. It is offering concessions to other stakeholders to build tourist facilities there.

In progress is the US$70 million Menjangan Jungle and Beach Resort, which is designed as a luxury lodge within the park. It is built by the Jakarta-based PT Trimbawan Swastama Sejati and owned by a Balinese.

The project is located in Pejarakan village, about 16 kilometers east of the western port of Gilimanuk, or 60 kilometers west of Buleleng.

The resort targets the upper end of the market, the leisured classes that can afford to stay at the bay view cottage at an all-in $500 per night.

The cottage is built mainly from wood with a thatched roof. There, no sound of machinery is allowed; a horse-drawn cart will take guests from the main road to the hotel room, almost three kilometers away in the forest.

And the rest is the law of the jungle: plants and beasts shall be respected as they are, while guests pay a fee for their welfare and conservation.

So far, there also exist Waka Sorea Resort and the upscale Mimpi Resort, which is built on a reclaimed plot of land in Pejarakan village, Buleleng.

According to Tri Siswo Raharjo, chief of the West Bali Conservation office who is involved in the Menjangan resort development, the new facility will have its soft opening in July.

Under the concessionaire agreement, the resort will set aside 10 percent of its annual net profit for conservation, in addition to the regular fees and taxes.

Under construction are bay view cottages and a tower that will become the center of recreational activity in the resort. The main attractions will be horseback riding, cattle ranch, jungle tracking, surfing, snorkeling.

In fact West Bali National Park has been quite popular among nature lovers around the world. Many come for either recreation or nature study.

The area in general has long been well-known as a world-class place for diving, surfing and snorkeling around the unpopulated Menjangan island, adjacent to the park.

The small island is reached from Labuhan Lalang, a small quay at Pejarakan village where visitors can hire diving equipment. Facilities like boats are operated and managed by locals in cooperation with the park management.

Statistics at the conservation office show that 40,000 people visit the park every year. Despite the large number of visitors, the revenue is small due to the lack of facilities.

An entry ticket costs a mere Rp 2,000 for locals and Rp 20,000 for foreigners.

The ecotourist development received support from Russel Mittermeier, chairman of Conservation International who visited the area last month to get first-hand information on the endangered Bali starling.

"If successful, this project can serve as a model for other areas in Indonesia," he said.

Unimpressed by the cheap tickets, he added, "Don't undervalue the park. Tell rich tourists to go elsewhere if they haggle."

In the long run, the park will introduce a guided tour to parts of the jungle to see critically endangered animals such as the Bali starling (Leucopsar rothschildi), of which there are only 13 left in the wild. Deer (Cervus timorensis), Black monkey (Tra-cyticathus auratus) and grey monkey (Macaca fascicularis) can also be found there.

The Park is only two kilometers east of Gilimanuk port in the western tip of Bali. The journey takes about three hours from the provincial capital of Denpasar by bus.