Volcanic splendor of the busy yet quiet Tangkuban Perahu

Volcanic splendor of the busy yet quiet Tangkuban Perahu

By Simon Marcus Gower

TANGKUBAN PERAHU, West Java (JP): It is a famous and popular
natural sight of wonder in Indonesia. Each day sees dozens;
perhaps hundreds of visitors arrive to see it. It is, then, a
busy point of destination; but though there may be crowds and
though there is no sense of having glimpsed a rarely seen natural
wonder, this in no way detracts from the awe of seeing the
volcanic crater of Mount Tangkuban Perahu.

Many visitors to this volcanic mountain may stop off in the
West Java provincial capital Bandung that lies some 50 kilometers
south; but also south of the mountain is the small resort/market
town of Lembang.

This town, only around 25 kilometers from the volcano, is a
more convenient and less crowded stopping point. Lembang has seen
some, but not much, development over the past few years. This
means that in and around the town there is now a good range of
hotels and hostels.

Larger upmarket hotels occupy strategic and attractive
locations that may attract the likes of conferences whilst
smaller homestay type accommodation is available to backpacking
or camping customers.

Lembang, however, is no more than a stop-off point for the
traveler. The horse-drawn carts that trot around the town may
have an appealing look but there is no leisure or pleasure
function being fulfilled by this antiquated and quaint mode of
transport. The carts have a definite utility function and the
horses pulling them are not pretty ponies but are clearly
workhorses. They carry paying customers and substantial amounts
of farm produce to and from the town's lively market.

The town lies on the upland plateau above the city of Bandung;
but to reach the volcanic peak of Tangkuban Perahu a considerable
ascent still lies ahead. Setting out on Lembang's very own Jalan
Tangkuban Perahu the road is a near constant gradient upwards. As
the road sweeps up and through the richly fertile countryside an
almost endless ribbon of deep green rice fields is passed and the
elevation of the ascent becomes apparent.

On a clear day views all the way down to the low lying city of
Bandung may be seen and as the foothills of Tangkuban Perahu are
ascended the accompanying change in air pressure may cause one to
swallow to relieve the pressure in one's ears. Also, the change
in temperature will be both felt and seen as local people will
often be seen wearing jackets or even knitted hats to ward off
the cold. Finally, as you pass through a gateway and into the
parkland that surrounds the mountain, the tall pine trees tell
you that this is not an area of tropical climes and palm trees.

Even having passed into the parkland there still remains a
considerable distance and further ascent to go. Soon hill walkers
and campers will be seen and some of the more weary ones may
hitch a ride -- the climb is not for the weak. But the climb does
not have to be made on foot.

Indeed a primary reason for the crowds that do make the ascent
to the crater is that a good road runs right up to the crater's
edge. Thus, though engines may strain and gears may crunch as
drivers stir their vehicles ever upward and onward the hard work
of climbing to the crater may be left to the combustion engine.

Upon arrival at the crater crowds of souvenir sellers and the
sulfur stench of the volcano will be the first encounters. Both
may be somewhat overwhelming but both can be easily dealt with.

The number of hawkers may be overwhelming but they are not
pushy and once they have heard a polite "no thank you" they will
leave you alone.

The smell of the sulfur will also "leave you alone" but only
if you are downwind of it. A quick check of which way the wind is
blowing is, thus, wise.

The sulfur stench steams up from the depths of the crater,
which is far below the crater's edge. The general public is only
permitted to access the crater's edge. According to one of the
numerous souvenir photographers the public used to be allowed to
descend some way down into the crater but this practice has been
brought to an end by the dangerously high levels of fumes within
the crater. There are no such dangers at the crater's edge
however. Indeed many visitors happily park their cars right up at
the edge.

Likewise, a small market exists at the edge. Snaking along a
portion of this rock-strewn landscape is a huddle of stalls.
Amongst these stalls are cafes where people happily eat
regardless of the wafting sulfuric smells. Most of the stalls are
souvenir sellers that offer anything from Tangkuban Perahu T-
shirts to rather expensive polished semi-precious stones.

Strangely though, on the day of this particular visit the
number one selling item from these stalls appeared to be cuddly
Pooh Bear toys.

This "market" portion of Tangkuban Perahu is intriguing but
not really attractive or the real reason for traveling all the
way to this mountaintop.

Crowds gather near the market to look down into the crater but
they soon thin as one begins to walk some distance around the
crater. Indeed a quiet and long walk can be enjoyed around the
circumference of the crater. This walk is quite challenging --
with steep climbs passing through small, thick forests that
survive in parts. Many of the trees near to the crater have a
dried and dead look to them -- no doubt due to their exposure to
the volcanic fumes and the extremes at the mountain's summit. The
temperatures are typically cool but when the sun shines it can be
hot and rain showers can sweep in, from clouds that you
can almost touch, at a moment's notice.

The walk around the circumference of the crater is in excess
of one kilometer and due to the difficult terrain can easily take
over an hour to make but it does allow for some remarkable views
to be gained of this harsh landscape. Apparently the last time
there was a significant eruption from the volcano was in 1969 but
it is clear that extremely violent eruptions have taken place
here. The rock is carved away in patterns that tell of the
enormous force involved in creating this dark, angry looking scar
on the mountaintop.

Sulfuric steam constantly seeps from rocky holes in the depths
of this chasm landscape that suggest that the mountain lies
dormant for now but may still have fire in its belly. The name
given to this mountain --Tangkuban Perahu -- is derived from a
legend in which, due to various circumstances, the legendary
figure of Sangkuriang kicked his boat over in a rage and as it
landed it fell upside down forming Mount Tangkuban Perahu (the
capsized boat). From a distance, (such as down below in Bandung)
the outline of the mountain has the appearance of a capsized
boat.

Sangkuriang's rage has created, today, a popular and stunning
natural wonder. Despite the crowds that make the trip to the
mountain, some outstanding views and peacefulness can be
experienced here. Even with all the tourist trappings of
souvenirs, snapshot photographers and memento sellers, the quiet
of the wilderness pervades over most of Tangkuban Perahu. The
huge scale of the crater and the powerful nature that created
this landscape are truly awe-inspiring and may quieten voices and
make one pause for thought. Though there may be many visitors at
the crater's edge, an almost respectful hush seems to hang in the
air -- along with the less welcome stink of sulfur that only
slightly detracts from the experience.