Volcanic splendor of the busy yet quiet Tangkuban Perahu

By Simon Marcus Gower

TANGKUBAN PERAHU, West Java (JP): It is a famous and popular natural sight of wonder in Indonesia. Each day sees dozens; perhaps hundreds of visitors arrive to see it. It is, then, a busy point of destination; but though there may be crowds and though there is no sense of having glimpsed a rarely seen natural wonder, this in no way detracts from the awe of seeing the volcanic crater of Mount Tangkuban Perahu.

Many visitors to this volcanic mountain may stop off in the West Java provincial capital Bandung that lies some 50 kilometers south; but also south of the mountain is the small resort/market town of Lembang.

This town, only around 25 kilometers from the volcano, is a more convenient and less crowded stopping point. Lembang has seen some, but not much, development over the past few years. This means that in and around the town there is now a good range of hotels and hostels.

Larger upmarket hotels occupy strategic and attractive locations that may attract the likes of conferences whilst smaller homestay type accommodation is available to backpacking or camping customers.

Lembang, however, is no more than a stop-off point for the traveler. The horse-drawn carts that trot around the town may have an appealing look but there is no leisure or pleasure function being fulfilled by this antiquated and quaint mode of transport. The carts have a definite utility function and the horses pulling them are not pretty ponies but are clearly workhorses. They carry paying customers and substantial amounts of farm produce to and from the town's lively market.

The town lies on the upland plateau above the city of Bandung; but to reach the volcanic peak of Tangkuban Perahu a considerable ascent still lies ahead. Setting out on Lembang's very own Jalan Tangkuban Perahu the road is a near constant gradient upwards. As the road sweeps up and through the richly fertile countryside an almost endless ribbon of deep green rice fields is passed and the elevation of the ascent becomes apparent.

On a clear day views all the way down to the low lying city of Bandung may be seen and as the foothills of Tangkuban Perahu are ascended the accompanying change in air pressure may cause one to swallow to relieve the pressure in one's ears. Also, the change in temperature will be both felt and seen as local people will often be seen wearing jackets or even knitted hats to ward off the cold. Finally, as you pass through a gateway and into the parkland that surrounds the mountain, the tall pine trees tell you that this is not an area of tropical climes and palm trees.

Even having passed into the parkland there still remains a considerable distance and further ascent to go. Soon hill walkers and campers will be seen and some of the more weary ones may hitch a ride -- the climb is not for the weak. But the climb does not have to be made on foot.

Indeed a primary reason for the crowds that do make the ascent to the crater is that a good road runs right up to the crater's edge. Thus, though engines may strain and gears may crunch as drivers stir their vehicles ever upward and onward the hard work of climbing to the crater may be left to the combustion engine.

Upon arrival at the crater crowds of souvenir sellers and the sulfur stench of the volcano will be the first encounters. Both may be somewhat overwhelming but both can be easily dealt with.

The number of hawkers may be overwhelming but they are not pushy and once they have heard a polite "no thank you" they will leave you alone.

The smell of the sulfur will also "leave you alone" but only if you are downwind of it. A quick check of which way the wind is blowing is, thus, wise.

The sulfur stench steams up from the depths of the crater, which is far below the crater's edge. The general public is only permitted to access the crater's edge. According to one of the numerous souvenir photographers the public used to be allowed to descend some way down into the crater but this practice has been brought to an end by the dangerously high levels of fumes within the crater. There are no such dangers at the crater's edge however. Indeed many visitors happily park their cars right up at the edge.

Likewise, a small market exists at the edge. Snaking along a portion of this rock-strewn landscape is a huddle of stalls. Amongst these stalls are cafes where people happily eat regardless of the wafting sulfuric smells. Most of the stalls are souvenir sellers that offer anything from Tangkuban Perahu T- shirts to rather expensive polished semi-precious stones.

Strangely though, on the day of this particular visit the number one selling item from these stalls appeared to be cuddly Pooh Bear toys.

This "market" portion of Tangkuban Perahu is intriguing but not really attractive or the real reason for traveling all the way to this mountaintop.

Crowds gather near the market to look down into the crater but they soon thin as one begins to walk some distance around the crater. Indeed a quiet and long walk can be enjoyed around the circumference of the crater. This walk is quite challenging -- with steep climbs passing through small, thick forests that survive in parts. Many of the trees near to the crater have a dried and dead look to them -- no doubt due to their exposure to the volcanic fumes and the extremes at the mountain's summit. The temperatures are typically cool but when the sun shines it can be hot and rain showers can sweep in, from clouds that you can almost touch, at a moment's notice.

The walk around the circumference of the crater is in excess of one kilometer and due to the difficult terrain can easily take over an hour to make but it does allow for some remarkable views to be gained of this harsh landscape. Apparently the last time there was a significant eruption from the volcano was in 1969 but it is clear that extremely violent eruptions have taken place here. The rock is carved away in patterns that tell of the enormous force involved in creating this dark, angry looking scar on the mountaintop.

Sulfuric steam constantly seeps from rocky holes in the depths of this chasm landscape that suggest that the mountain lies dormant for now but may still have fire in its belly. The name given to this mountain --Tangkuban Perahu -- is derived from a legend in which, due to various circumstances, the legendary figure of Sangkuriang kicked his boat over in a rage and as it landed it fell upside down forming Mount Tangkuban Perahu (the capsized boat). From a distance, (such as down below in Bandung) the outline of the mountain has the appearance of a capsized boat.

Sangkuriang's rage has created, today, a popular and stunning natural wonder. Despite the crowds that make the trip to the mountain, some outstanding views and peacefulness can be experienced here. Even with all the tourist trappings of souvenirs, snapshot photographers and memento sellers, the quiet of the wilderness pervades over most of Tangkuban Perahu. The huge scale of the crater and the powerful nature that created this landscape are truly awe-inspiring and may quieten voices and make one pause for thought. Though there may be many visitors at the crater's edge, an almost respectful hush seems to hang in the air -- along with the less welcome stink of sulfur that only slightly detracts from the experience.