Venturing off the beaten track in beautiful Lembang
By Gunjan Prasad
BANDUNG, West Java (JP): One of the pleasures of traveling is the thrill of discovery: stumbling onto a destination that the guidebook failed to mention, walking into an unknown restaurant and having the meal of your life. These are the experiences one is always looking for when traveling and it is this serendipity that makes Lembang so remarkable.
This little hill town, just north of Bandung, sits on the flanks of Tangkuban Perahu volcano, which is so-called because it resembles an upside-down boat. Also in the vicinity of Bandung is the beautiful Ciater hot springs complex. Besides these well- trodden tourist attractions, there exist gems that have been overlooked or which the hotel concierges might not have thought of recommending.
The pleasant climate and abundance of flora -- fresh flowers, fruits and vegetables -- have also been described to no end.
However, with due respect to all the guidebook writers, this is yet another aspect of Lembang that can only be experienced. It's a dreamscape, lush with rolling greens down to the city of Bandung.
At an elevation of 1,400 meters, temperatures here are a few degrees cooler than Bandung. Weary urbanites are refreshed and rejuvenated in a temperate climate which makes one want to establish residency here.
To explore this town, however, one should have some kind of private transportation. For those who are not driving themselves, car rentals are available at most of the hotels in Bandung. A word of caution: Bandung is not known for its efficient taxi services and visitors should be wary in making their choice of cabs.
Once you have a car, head to Cimahi Waterfall. From Bandung, head north for Lembang and, about six kilometers from the Ledeng Bus Terminal, take a left onto Jl. Kolonel Masturi. It descends steeply into Cihideung village. Follow the signs for the waterfall and the circuitous road will lead you right to your destination. Curug Cimahi (Cimahi Waterfall) consists of three waterfalls, one of them dropping from as high as 80m, situated in close proximity.
After paying the Rp 1,000 entry fee, one has to descend about 150 steep steps from the road. It is worth the trek along the tiring terrain for the breathtaking sight. Picnic hampers are a must but beware of the abundant monkeys.
Halfway to the falls, on Jl. Kol. Masturi, lies Vipassana Graha, also known as Candi Vipassana. Built in 1982, this Buddhist monastery is a must-see. Dressed in pristine white with murals of Buddha in gold all over, the architecture leaves an indelible impression. Most Buddhist monasteries are known for their serenity and this is no exception. The flutter of birds and an occasional clanging of bells are the only sounds that disturb the milieu.
The bhikshus (monks), in their traditional yellow and maroon attire, going about their daily chores effortlessly, add to the ethereal feeling. The monastery conducts a free course in meditation and can accommodate guests in its guest house at a nominal Rp 50,000 per night. With its calm and mystical air, it sure must provide a fertile ground for spiritual contemplation.
This is not the end of the journey. Back in the car, take the same road back to Jl. Setiabudi toward the Lembang crossroads and head to Maribaya Falls, almost five kilometers from the town center. Though not as scenic as the ones in Cimahi, a spa, recreation grounds and a magnificent gorge make Maribaya a popular resort with the Bandung locals, frequented especially on Sundays and school holidays.
The hot springs have been channeled into a small public pool and various private cabins which can be rented. Worth a try here is the magnificent two-hour walk through the cool woods leading to northern Bandung.
About two kilometers from the crossroads en-route to the falls lies a well-hidden albeit well-maintained cacti and orchid nursery. Hidden from the road by an enormous iron gate, this grove has almost 200 varieties of cacti and over 500 varieties of orchids. It is owned by a local who, with much pride, personally takes the visitors around, giving vital information about the genera as well as the origins of many of his well-preserved treasures.
The cacti seeds are imported from Germany and Mexico while the orchids are from all over the globe. Though the plants are priced a bit steeply, the place is definitely worth a visit for horticulture buffs.
Breeze
The crisp mountain breeze coupled with all the traveling can work up an appetite. Ask the locals, and they will tell you nothing can match the Ketan Bakar (sticky rice), Sate Kelinci (rabbit satay), Ayam Goreng Berebes (yellow chicken rice), Jagung Rebus (freshly steamed ears of sweet corn) and many such Sundanese specialties which are on offer along the entire stretch of the Lembang road.
For those looking for a sit-down meal with a view, a stylish restaurant not yet discovered by many visitors can be found about 10 kilometers from the Ledeng terminal. Turning left from the terminal onto Jl. Sersan Bajuri, one can reach The Peak easily by following the directions on a meandering road. It is located on top of a little hillock in the beautifully maintained Girindah Real Estate.
Set foot in The Peak, and visitors will be enthralled by its enchanting decor. Strategic lighting casts shadows over the glass walls, giving way to stylishly set tables for cozy meals. Truly spellbinding after dark, an advance reservation can assure a table on the restaurant's top-most floor for a clear view of sprawling Bandung city dressed in lights. When it comes to the food, steaks reign supreme.
Other choices include an assortment of Italian and local cuisine. Those who cannot make it during the night hours will be happy to know that The Peak is open for lunch.
All told, Lembang is a city which grows on you and lures you into spending more time here than just a rushed day trip. This town has a wide assortment of hotels that can provide peerless seclusion, romance and beauty.
Grand Hotel and Putri Gunung Cottages have been the traditional choice of most corporate clients. Though not very well-known outside Bandung, San Gria Resort on Jl. Horikultura, Lembang, has already established a solid following with those looking to indulge in a style of living that is refined without being ostentatious.
Whether you are seeking a romantic break or a relaxing holiday, this hideaway provides a haven for the senses and rejuvenation of the spirit. Built on split-levels, first encountered on the upper level are the reception, restaurant and all of its 30 rooms stretched out along the ridge.
Effortlessly, the sweep of natural landscape blends with the architectural style of this retreat. The emphasis is on natural elements and most handicrafts, artwork and furniture have been sourced from local artists and suppliers.
The real beauty of this retreat lies in what its general manager Adria Lake calls her "secret garden". This sensuous, beautifully landscaped garden, once again on split levels, plays a vital part in the impact of San Gria, covering over 10,000 plants and trees. A stone path curves languidly through a maze of fruit trees and series of ponds terminating at the pool that appears to spill into the valley below. A sunken Jacuzzi and a bar complete the picture.
One of the highlights of the resort is its newly built spa villa perched on a hillside. Numerous treatments are available from the 30-minute "Stress Reliever" up to a full three-hour "Ultimate Bliss Treatment".
For those seeking to venture off the beaten track, San Gria provides personalized excursions to suit every guest's individual needs: a day on the golf course, strolls through tea plantations, visits to the aforementioned cacti plantation as well as horse- riding.
Lembang has a wealth of "not so famous" spots waiting to welcome the imaginative traveler. It calls you to embark on your own adventure.