Traditional 'Sesaji Labuhan' ceremony a sea of mysteries

Traditional 'Sesaji Labuhan' ceremony a sea of mysteries

Text and photos by Tarko Sudiarno

YOGYAKARTA (JP): The quiet waves of the Indian Ocean suddenly
surge ferociously. Every object on the coast of Parangkusumo,
Parangtritis, Yogyakarta, is swept away. However, the violent
waves in the afternoon do not deter several hundred people from
fighting for the Sesaji Labuhan.

Sesaji (ritual objects) floating on the huge waves have become
objects of contention among the people who ignore the dangers
threatening them.

That is the atmosphere of the Labuhan, a traditional ceremony
organized by the keraton (the palace of Yogyakarta) to celebrate
Wiyosan Dalem Jumenengan, the anniversary of the ascension to the
throne of Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono X.

A series of ceremonies organized once a year at the end of the
month of Rejeb on the Javanese calendar are preceded a few days
earlier by Ngabluk Jladren (making flour dough), Ngapem (making
of apem cakes), Wilujengan (selamatan ceremonial meal) and
Labuhan. The Labuhan procession takes place on the coast of
Parangkusumo, Mount Merapi and Mount Lawu.

The traditional ceremony, which began at the time of the
Mataram kingdom, is said to have been held by Panembahan
Senopati, who established the Mataram kingdom, to obtain the
support of spirits guarding Mount Merapi, the southern coast and
Mount Lawu.

At the start of the Mataram kingdom, the challenges and
obstacles were enormous. Therefore, Panembahan Senopati, apart
from needing the support of important people, also required
legitimization from the southern sea keraton spirits as well as
the Mount Merapi Keraton spirits.

The Labuhan Sesaji ceremony is held at these places every year
as a sign there are still relations between the Mataram Keraton
and the southern sea kingdom as well as Mount Merapi. The
tradition has been maintained until now by the descendants of the
Mataram dynasty, both by the Yogyakarta Keraton and the Surakarta
Keraton.

Although times have changed, this year's Labuhan ceremony was
attended by many people both young and old. They trust that by
following this tradition, they will obtain the Sultan's
blessings, especially those who get sesaji. Therefore, the
turbulent waves of the southern sea or the hardships of climbing
Mount Merapi are trivial for the pilgrims.

The Labuhan ceremony on the Parangkusumo coast took place on
Nov. 8, starting with the sesaji ceremony at a site called
Petilasan, which many believed to be the rendezvous point for
Panembahan Senopati and Kanjeng Ratu Kidul (the queen of the
southern sea).

The rocky site is 500 meters away from the Parangkusumo coast.
Apart from saying prayers here, people bury some of the sesaji
brought from the keraton. Only afterwards does the Labuhan
procession take place along the Parangkusumo coast. The sesaji
consist of some of Sri Sultan's used clothes, nail clippings and
hair, as well as various kinds of cloth with special designs.

The Labuhan at Mount Merapi takes place the next day at Pos
(station) 2, on the mountain climb of the southern side. Pos 2 is
located below the kendit (border) between the rocky slope and the
bush forest, and houses a specially built altar with a pendapa
(large open structure in front of Javanese mansions). The
ceremony starts at 6 a.m. with a prayer of departure from the
Mount Merapi caretaker's house where the sesaji of the keraton
spent the night. The articles which will be used are carried up
the mountain in a trip that takes one and a half hours, or three
to four for the general public. Older participants and those not
used to climbing have start at midnight.

At Pos 2 of the climb, also known as the Bangsal Sri Manganti
Keraton of Mount Merapi, the procession takes place with the
display of the sesaji on the altar. The sesaji takes the form of
various kinds of cloth and sesaji flowers. After a prayer by the
caretaker, they are entered into a storage box and are not
contested like in Parangkusumo. As a replacement to obtain
blessings, participants receive a quantity of delicious rice that
is part of the sesaji, while the box with the sesaji is brought
back to the caretaker's house.