Traditional 'Sesaji Labuhan' ceremony a sea of mysteries

Text and photos by Tarko Sudiarno

YOGYAKARTA (JP): The quiet waves of the Indian Ocean suddenly surge ferociously. Every object on the coast of Parangkusumo, Parangtritis, Yogyakarta, is swept away. However, the violent waves in the afternoon do not deter several hundred people from fighting for the Sesaji Labuhan.

Sesaji (ritual objects) floating on the huge waves have become objects of contention among the people who ignore the dangers threatening them.

That is the atmosphere of the Labuhan, a traditional ceremony organized by the keraton (the palace of Yogyakarta) to celebrate Wiyosan Dalem Jumenengan, the anniversary of the ascension to the throne of Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono X.

A series of ceremonies organized once a year at the end of the month of Rejeb on the Javanese calendar are preceded a few days earlier by Ngabluk Jladren (making flour dough), Ngapem (making of apem cakes), Wilujengan (selamatan ceremonial meal) and Labuhan. The Labuhan procession takes place on the coast of Parangkusumo, Mount Merapi and Mount Lawu.

The traditional ceremony, which began at the time of the Mataram kingdom, is said to have been held by Panembahan Senopati, who established the Mataram kingdom, to obtain the support of spirits guarding Mount Merapi, the southern coast and Mount Lawu.

At the start of the Mataram kingdom, the challenges and obstacles were enormous. Therefore, Panembahan Senopati, apart from needing the support of important people, also required legitimization from the southern sea keraton spirits as well as the Mount Merapi Keraton spirits.

The Labuhan Sesaji ceremony is held at these places every year as a sign there are still relations between the Mataram Keraton and the southern sea kingdom as well as Mount Merapi. The tradition has been maintained until now by the descendants of the Mataram dynasty, both by the Yogyakarta Keraton and the Surakarta Keraton.

Although times have changed, this year's Labuhan ceremony was attended by many people both young and old. They trust that by following this tradition, they will obtain the Sultan's blessings, especially those who get sesaji. Therefore, the turbulent waves of the southern sea or the hardships of climbing Mount Merapi are trivial for the pilgrims.

The Labuhan ceremony on the Parangkusumo coast took place on Nov. 8, starting with the sesaji ceremony at a site called Petilasan, which many believed to be the rendezvous point for Panembahan Senopati and Kanjeng Ratu Kidul (the queen of the southern sea).

The rocky site is 500 meters away from the Parangkusumo coast. Apart from saying prayers here, people bury some of the sesaji brought from the keraton. Only afterwards does the Labuhan procession take place along the Parangkusumo coast. The sesaji consist of some of Sri Sultan's used clothes, nail clippings and hair, as well as various kinds of cloth with special designs.

The Labuhan at Mount Merapi takes place the next day at Pos (station) 2, on the mountain climb of the southern side. Pos 2 is located below the kendit (border) between the rocky slope and the bush forest, and houses a specially built altar with a pendapa (large open structure in front of Javanese mansions). The ceremony starts at 6 a.m. with a prayer of departure from the Mount Merapi caretaker's house where the sesaji of the keraton spent the night. The articles which will be used are carried up the mountain in a trip that takes one and a half hours, or three to four for the general public. Older participants and those not used to climbing have start at midnight.

At Pos 2 of the climb, also known as the Bangsal Sri Manganti Keraton of Mount Merapi, the procession takes place with the display of the sesaji on the altar. The sesaji takes the form of various kinds of cloth and sesaji flowers. After a prayer by the caretaker, they are entered into a storage box and are not contested like in Parangkusumo. As a replacement to obtain blessings, participants receive a quantity of delicious rice that is part of the sesaji, while the box with the sesaji is brought back to the caretaker's house.