Tradition takes pride of place in devoutly Islamic Aceh

Text and photos by Arief Suhardiman

BANDA ACEH, Aceh (JP): Perched on the westernmost tip of Sumatra, Aceh is proud of its Islamic traditions.

With a population of 3.5 million, the province is one of the country's most sparsely peopled areas. But the ancient territory, which enjoyed its cultural heyday in the 16th century under Sultan Iskandar Muda, retains the legacies of its past as its main attraction.

Grand mosque Baitul Rachman, built with the help of the Dutch colonial administration between 1879 and 1881, is in the heart of the capital and remains it most outstanding landmark.

During its heyday, the Aceh sultanate was one of Asia's major trade centers. Its territory covered the entire island of Sumatra, part of Malaysia and a section of southern Thailand.

As a major producer of spices, it attracted traders from all over Asia and Europe. Numerous foreign languages were spoken in trade centers, such as the Kuta Raja harbor, now Banda Aceh.

Aceh, which together with Yogyakarta was accorded the status of "special territory" for its distinctive religious, cultural and historical background, is rich in mining and natural resources.

Natural gas from Lhokseumawe, northern Aceh, is said to have contributed an estimated US$2.6 billion annually since production began in 1977. Most of the products are exported to Asian economic giants such as Japan and South Korea.

Although some areas are increasingly industrialized, most Acehnese continue to make their livelihood from the land.

Along the coast, fishing is the most common occupation.

With globalization an inevitability, tradition is coming under assault in urban areas. Nightspots such as discotheques are found in major hotels in Lhokseumawe and Banda Aceh, bringing with them typical societal ills of drug abuse and prostitution.