Tradition and leisure mix at Pelabuhan Ratu

Tradition and leisure mix at Pelabuhan Ratu

By Simon Marcus Gower

PELABUHAN RATU, West Java (JP): Head due south from central
Jakarta and you are on a perfect course for the peaceful hill-
town of Bogor, which has for centuries been a more temperate
escape for dwellers of the nation's capital. Continue south
beyond this appealing town and head for Java's coast on the
Indian Ocean and you will eventually arrive at the equally
welcoming Pelabuhan Ratu Bay.

Eventual arrival is an accurate description as the roads to
this coastal region wind and undulate through countryside and
hills that have been only somewhat changed by human habitation.
Rice fields and sparse housing settlements only seem to add to
the idyllic look of these parts.

The same may be said of much of the human habitation around
Pelabuhan Ratu Bay. The encroachment of tourism is evident in the
lineal growth of cafes, restaurants and modest hotels along the
coastal roads. But the considerable length of this coastal area
means that what development there is has so far been sporadic and
relatively restrained in nature.

Perhaps most important of all, upon arriving in Pelabuhan
Ratu, is the feeling that local people and traditional ways seem
to remain predominant. The water buffalo being worked to plow the
soil, the rice fields rolling down hillsides to the sea and the
fish markets selling the day's catch tell of this part of Java's
retention of age-old ways.

Passing through the small town of Cisolok, which is relatively
busy, the road to Pelabuhan Ratu runs parallel to the coastline
and one can quickly see the strength of the surf as the Indian
Ocean crashes onto this part of Java's southern coast.

The strong surf has given the area something of a reputation
as a surfers' destination, though there is little evidence of
this.

Much more conspicuous are the fishermen. Probably the best
time to see their remarkable efforts is at sunrise as they labor
to bring in their catch from a night of fishing. The swirling,
unpredictable surf as it hits the beaches of Pelabuhan Ratu means
that the fishermen must battle to bring their baskets ashore as
their boats are tossed into the air.

Though extremely hazardous, it is not long before these
skilled workers of the sea have unloaded their catches. Then they
head out again beyond the crashing waves to the calm water that
allows them to safely anchor their boats until they board them
again the next night.

Once the catch has been landed it seems whole villages join in
the task of setting the fish out on bamboo racks across the sands
of the beach. Quite frantic negotiations quickly begin in which
the fish are auctioned off to be consumed either locally or
carried off to one of the numerous local markets.

For those wishing to experience fishing firsthand, boats can
be hired for expeditions that will give an immediate insight into
the abundance of the brilliant blue waters of Pelabuhan Ratu.
Speedboats, jet skis and surfboards are all available for rent,
but caution is required as rocky outcrops often sit just offshore
waiting to snare the unwary water-sport enthusiast.

Local legend

Locals also tell of something else that could prove dangerous
for those entering the water here. They relate the legend of Nyi
Loro Kidul, the Queen of the South Seas, who has been known to
take people from the sea to their deaths.

According to the legend, Nyi Loro Kidul was born a princess in
an ancient West Java kingdom known as Pajajaran, but she
constantly displeased her father. He sensed that she lusted after
his power; she did not remain respectful and true to her position
as a princess. Exhausted by her misconduct the king banished her
to the South Seas, saying that since she lusted after power she
could rule over the seas.

Upon her banishment she was reincarnated as a mysterious sea
spirit. Soon she became known as the Goddess of the Sea and was
revered and feared. To this day nearby hotels keep one room
permanently empty to appease Nyi Loro Kidul.

Local people warn that care should be taken to show Nyi Loro
Kidul respect when entering the sea. They say the color green
should never be worn by those venturing into the sea. If green is
worn, the goddess will come and take the wearer to a watery
death.

Whether or not one believes this legend, the water of
Pelabuhan Ratu Bay is impressive and beautiful. Its deep blue,
the strength of the waves sweeping the beaches and the abundance
of food that is daily taken from its depths all tell of its
magnificence and importance to the lives of people here, whether
local inhabitants or tourists.

Alongside the rooms set aside for this princess, there is a
modest range of hotels. Perhaps the best accommodation in the
area are the traditional beach houses that can be rented. Though
basic in construction and amenities, they are most appealing and
appropriate for this tropical setting. They sit idyllically near
enough to the sea to hear the crashing of the waves, but far
enough from the water not to be threatened by it.

For those weary of the big city life of Jakarta, Pelabuhan
Ratu is a highly attractive proposition. Mixing centuries old
ways of life with modern needs, along with the legendary twist of
Nyi Loro Kidul, this is a relaxing destination along coastal
Java.