Tradition and leisure mix at Pelabuhan Ratu

By Simon Marcus Gower

PELABUHAN RATU, West Java (JP): Head due south from central Jakarta and you are on a perfect course for the peaceful hill- town of Bogor, which has for centuries been a more temperate escape for dwellers of the nation's capital. Continue south beyond this appealing town and head for Java's coast on the Indian Ocean and you will eventually arrive at the equally welcoming Pelabuhan Ratu Bay.

Eventual arrival is an accurate description as the roads to this coastal region wind and undulate through countryside and hills that have been only somewhat changed by human habitation. Rice fields and sparse housing settlements only seem to add to the idyllic look of these parts.

The same may be said of much of the human habitation around Pelabuhan Ratu Bay. The encroachment of tourism is evident in the lineal growth of cafes, restaurants and modest hotels along the coastal roads. But the considerable length of this coastal area means that what development there is has so far been sporadic and relatively restrained in nature.

Perhaps most important of all, upon arriving in Pelabuhan Ratu, is the feeling that local people and traditional ways seem to remain predominant. The water buffalo being worked to plow the soil, the rice fields rolling down hillsides to the sea and the fish markets selling the day's catch tell of this part of Java's retention of age-old ways.

Passing through the small town of Cisolok, which is relatively busy, the road to Pelabuhan Ratu runs parallel to the coastline and one can quickly see the strength of the surf as the Indian Ocean crashes onto this part of Java's southern coast.

The strong surf has given the area something of a reputation as a surfers' destination, though there is little evidence of this.

Much more conspicuous are the fishermen. Probably the best time to see their remarkable efforts is at sunrise as they labor to bring in their catch from a night of fishing. The swirling, unpredictable surf as it hits the beaches of Pelabuhan Ratu means that the fishermen must battle to bring their baskets ashore as their boats are tossed into the air.

Though extremely hazardous, it is not long before these skilled workers of the sea have unloaded their catches. Then they head out again beyond the crashing waves to the calm water that allows them to safely anchor their boats until they board them again the next night.

Once the catch has been landed it seems whole villages join in the task of setting the fish out on bamboo racks across the sands of the beach. Quite frantic negotiations quickly begin in which the fish are auctioned off to be consumed either locally or carried off to one of the numerous local markets.

For those wishing to experience fishing firsthand, boats can be hired for expeditions that will give an immediate insight into the abundance of the brilliant blue waters of Pelabuhan Ratu. Speedboats, jet skis and surfboards are all available for rent, but caution is required as rocky outcrops often sit just offshore waiting to snare the unwary water-sport enthusiast.

Local legend

Locals also tell of something else that could prove dangerous for those entering the water here. They relate the legend of Nyi Loro Kidul, the Queen of the South Seas, who has been known to take people from the sea to their deaths.

According to the legend, Nyi Loro Kidul was born a princess in an ancient West Java kingdom known as Pajajaran, but she constantly displeased her father. He sensed that she lusted after his power; she did not remain respectful and true to her position as a princess. Exhausted by her misconduct the king banished her to the South Seas, saying that since she lusted after power she could rule over the seas.

Upon her banishment she was reincarnated as a mysterious sea spirit. Soon she became known as the Goddess of the Sea and was revered and feared. To this day nearby hotels keep one room permanently empty to appease Nyi Loro Kidul.

Local people warn that care should be taken to show Nyi Loro Kidul respect when entering the sea. They say the color green should never be worn by those venturing into the sea. If green is worn, the goddess will come and take the wearer to a watery death.

Whether or not one believes this legend, the water of Pelabuhan Ratu Bay is impressive and beautiful. Its deep blue, the strength of the waves sweeping the beaches and the abundance of food that is daily taken from its depths all tell of its magnificence and importance to the lives of people here, whether local inhabitants or tourists.

Alongside the rooms set aside for this princess, there is a modest range of hotels. Perhaps the best accommodation in the area are the traditional beach houses that can be rented. Though basic in construction and amenities, they are most appealing and appropriate for this tropical setting. They sit idyllically near enough to the sea to hear the crashing of the waves, but far enough from the water not to be threatened by it.

For those weary of the big city life of Jakarta, Pelabuhan Ratu is a highly attractive proposition. Mixing centuries old ways of life with modern needs, along with the legendary twist of Nyi Loro Kidul, this is a relaxing destination along coastal Java.