Tracking Komodo dragons, the last dinosaurs

Tracking Komodo dragons, the last dinosaurs

Text and photos by Mulkan Salmona

KOMODO ISLAND (JP): The path in the Loh Buaya area of the
Komodo National Park winds away into the distance. Thick foliage
and dry twigs on both sides form a tunnel to pass through. It is
quite a long, but even walk before the more difficult section,
which leads us to the valley. Our guide, one of the park's
wardens, walks in front, a stick with a split end never leaving
his hand. His eyes forever watchful for any suspicious movements
around him.

"Look, up there, on the hill. That's quite a biggy", Pak Agus,
the guide, exclaims.

We raise our eyes toward the hill, and there is a Komodo
dragon, or varanus komodoensis, its huge reptilian neck jutting
out.

According to Pak Agus, who has worked as a park warden for
several years, the Komodo is a very cunning animal, and a master
in trickery, especially in hunting down prey. It never chases
food, and avoids physical contact. Instead, the komodo uses
tricks -- like playing dead, or faking the look of a fallen tree
or log along animal trails -- to stalk its preys of buffalo, deer
or boar.

The Komodo will ambush its prey, making sure to attack the
vital parts of the target, such as the legs. Once it wounds a
victim, it will not kill it, but let it run. The Komodo's highly
sensitive sense of smell will enable it to go after the wounded
creature, no matter where it runs or hides. It will only feast
after the wounded animal stops running or moving. A Komodo
usually shares a kill with other Komodos who join in the stalk.

Pak Agus has barely finished his story when he suddenly
shouts, "Watch out !" Most leap backwards. Looking up, there is a
Komodo sauntering past us. It is about one-and-a-half meters
long. The camera shoots, but there's no time to lose.

The cool morning air suddenly turns hot, although the time
shows it's only 8:30 a.m. The journey continues and along the
trail there are often buffalo or deer carcasses. The sight is
quite unnerving and caution is called for.

After about 500 meters there is a giant Komodo slumbering
under a huge tree. Cameras move into action again. Though on
hearing the noise from the cameras, and people excitedly talking,
the beast opens its eyes and slowly backs away, until it
eventually disappears behind thick bushes.

Drenched in sweat, everyone follows the path that leads down
the hill, whistling to the tune of singing birds in the trees.

"Hey, look at that tiny Komodo. How cute !" yells Susanti, one
of the reporters in our group, in her classical Javanese accent.

In the direction she points all eyes immediately fall on a
young Komodo, strutting, its tongue sticking out. The camera
shoots, unaware of how fast the animal can move. The dragon is
very close now, and distance between us and it is hastily made
while it vanishes behind the bushes.

The heat steadily increases on the ceaseless journey toward
its zenith, and it's time to return to base camp at Loh Buaya.
Enough Komodo watching for today.

Arriving at camp about 10:30 a.m., while walking past a
warden's house, there's a couple of giant Komodos taking refuge
under the structure, trying to avoid the punishing heat from the
blazing sun. Perhaps due to familiarity with tourists and locals
alike, the animals do not seem bothered by our presence.

According to Pak Agus, the two Komodos are among the oldest in
Loh Buaya and have become quite friendly with humans.

But that doesn't mean they are tame. "Komodos are difficult to
tame," he warns with a smile.

A large group of trees affords rest under the shady green.
Soon, a motorboat will take us to the Sea Safari, a traditional
phinisi boat which has been our base camp during the trip to the
Komodo National Park. The trip was organized by The Nature
Conservancy, an international non-governmental organization which
provides assistance with efforts to preserve Komodo National
Park.

The following day, after several hours in the motorboat, we
arrive at the Loh Liang area of the Komodo National Park in the
southern part of Komodo Island. Not far from Loh Liang is a
fishing village, also called Komodo, and some people from the
group visit the village. It only takes 10 minutes in the boat to
get there, and the village head and some tribal leaders are met.
They discuss various issues, including village development,
health problems and human resources development, until an hour
later we return to Loh Liang, and a warden takes us on a tour
around the park.

More relaxed this time. The path is more even, with few
obstacles. At Banu Nggunung, a site considered dangerous because
of the high number of Komodos roaming the area, it's noticed
we're not the first visitors. The Komodo watch area, surrounded
by wooden fences, is already crowded with earlier visitors, busy
taking pictures with their cameras or handycams from behind the
fences. They are not allowed to go outside the fences, because
once they do, they risk being prey to the beasts.

A hectic day is over and more than complete. Sleep is now the
most important thing on the agenda, and after storing equipment
and lying down on the sofa, the strange, sometimes terrifying
world of the Komodo slowly fades away into delightful slumber.