Tracing the history of Indonesian thread culture
By Danielle Bray
JAKARTA (JP): Have you ever wondered how the textile industry in Indonesia began? More importantly, the history of thread? Seldom a topic discussed, and only known to a handful of people, this artistic backbone of Indonesia was recently explained in length by Wahyono Martowikrido of The Indonesian Art and Culture Development Foundation.
The history of this cultural phenomenon was discussed recently at a lecture titled, Threads of Indonesian Culture at the residence of the minister of health, Achmad Sujudi, in Kuningan, South Jakarta.
Explaining the history of early Indonesian techniques in fabric weaving and decorating, Wahyono primarily focused on the time period before looms were introduced. He was specifically interested in the development of "thread culture", and its significance before modernization.
Wahyono said that archeological finds established that "thread culture" was in existence during the bronze age and iron age in Indonesia. Imprints on terracotta objects of this era show that cotton weaving cloth, palm leaf yarn and the plaiting of bamboo and rattan were used by the tribal inhabitants.
During the Neolithic Era (10,000 B.C. to 1000 B.C.) "thread culture" was detected by the yarn and thread used to fasten the quadrangular axes to their wooden handle. It was tied in such a way that when the axe was used, the tie would grasp the metal and wood firmly together.
"Thread culture is still very strong in the minds of the people, not only the ancient ones, but people now," Wahyono said. The principle of sewing began in ancient times when an object was in need of repair; regardless of its texture, it was sewn.
He referred to an ancient Vietnamese porcelain square vase that was broken and repaired by needle and thread. Along the two edges, small holes were made, and a thread was weaved through. This vase is now on display at a museum in Los Angeles, as an example of primitive mending.
Sewing needles were formed out of thorns from local plants or flowers, and various animal bones. They were carved into a sharp point, and used to direct the thread.
He explained how tree bark and leaves were placed in mud or water for three days to one week. This would rot the material, creating thread-like strings that were pulled off and dried. Upon completion, they were used as a primitive form of thread.
Once the "thread culture" was fully adapted by these cultures, they copied the idea of cotton thread, by creating a replica out of metal. This proved to be more durable, and lasted longer.
"Thread culture can be considered as the womb that gave birth to many great inventions, such as the sailing ship and the building of houses," he said.
Following the lecture, the guests were treated to a fashion show of classic batik patterns of the north coast of Java (pesisir), by Parang Kencana Collections and designer Thomas Sigar.
The models were elegantly clad in modern adaptations of the Indonesian kebaya (traditional dress). They were featured in batiks made of silk and bright colors. The kebayas were enhanced with embroidery and tiny rhinestones, which gave them a hint of modern influences.
Asked about the creation of his collection, Thomas Sigar explained, "It is a case of Indonesian heritage ... with the modification of traditional Indonesian garments, local people and designers will gain a better appreciation of their culture."