Top designer tells about Indonesian fashion

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Singer Anggun C. Sasmi, who is now big in Europe, once said that going international does not necessary mean you have to accentuate your ethnicity or traditional music.

"I prefer a smoother way. Being Indonesian doesn't mean that I have to sing with the gamelan or wear batik and kebaya all the time. It wasn't my style when I was still living in Indonesia either," she said.

Designer Biyan Wanaatmadja, 46, apparently follows similar principles.

There are some kebaya or kain among his collections, but the ethnic touch has never been too heavy. More "universal" clothing or even streetwear for teenagers can be found in his products.

"Let's not always be trapped or provoked by a perception that to be an Indonesian designer, we have to show our ethnicity. We have to be more open. Besides, everybody has different strengths and sensitivity. Some want it original, others just take one element of ethnicity. There should be space for everyone," he said.

Biyan does not want to be limited by something ethnical although he always tries to put an element of it into his creations.

"It all depends on my mood. For me, that shouldn't be a problem. I mean, why can Western people can create something Asian but not vice versa? What Is West and East? We wear the same kind of clothes daily."

He referred to Japanese designers, such as Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake, who he said were the perfect example of how to blend East and West.

"They're very original and interesting."

However, unlike Anggun who moved to France to start her international career, Biyan chose to stick it out here despite the encouragement and compliments from other people.

A French fashion designer who teaches at a fashion school here praised Biyan's ultrafeminine designs as distinguished and original, adding that even if Biyan wanted to join the haute couture in Paris, he would make it.

It is not that Biyan is not interested in the idea, but he found the phrase saying that to be successful, you have to be in the West, too cliche.

"Such a concept is not wrong. But what's wrong with being a native Indonesian, an Indonesian designer based in your own country? Paris and all, why not? But I have a hope that fashion in Indonesia should have been improved," said the soft-spoken designer.

"Improve in a sense that we can sell our products in places where they also sell top imported brands. And it turned out I can do it. It's not just a hope for me, but for others also to be able to do the same thing as me."

Within 19 years of his career as a designer, Biyan has established himself as one of the barometers of the Indonesian fashion industry.

Graduating from fashion school in Dusseldorf, Germany and then London, he now has three lines of clothing: the signature style of Biyan; Studio 133 which is more into career woman and sporty casual style, and (X)SML for young people.

He is also one among few Indonesian who has earned a reputation on foreign shores. In Singapore, his products can be obtained in the boutique network The Link which, among others, holds the license for Gianni Versace and Vera Wang.

In Hong Kong, it was Joice Ma, owner of exclusive boutiques in the country and several fashion cities, who tapped Biyan. His creations can also be found in exclusive boutiques in Taipei, Kuala Lumpur, Tokyo and Osaka.

As a designer, he does not only pay attention to the creative aspect of design, but the business as well.

That was part of the reason he was absent from holding a fashion show. The recent show at Hotel Mulia in Central Jakarta was his first in two years.

"It's talking about priority. I had an offer to sell my products in Japan. There was also an offer to move my outlet at Plaza Senayan to a more strategic spot. It was such a good opportunity because people always think that as a local designer, you are not going to be next to the international brand. I feel challenged and decided to concentrate on that first," said Biyan, who is also a fashion consultant for local edition of Harper's Bazaar magazine.

Show, he said, is not everything as he never stops creating.

"It is just a way to communicate with people. But through this outlet, we can also communicate with them. For me, it's important that clients can obtain my products. And obtaining isn't just about buying. But coming to see the products, touching it, make a comment ..."

It is clear that Biyan really wants to improve the local fashion industry, as he puts it, "it should have been developed much better than it is now."

"There are so many obstacles, though. The main problem is there's no synergy between parties involved in the industry itself. The designers, businessman, retailers ... they are all walking all by itself. The trading system has also yet to be conducive ..."

As for young designers, Biyan said that they have to think beyond creativity.

"To be creative is a must but don't just focus on that. But we have to pay really good attention to other aspects.

"We have to always step on earth, no matter how creative it is. People have to be able to wear it, because they are alive, they exist. It's life. We don't only dream. How we can combine dream and reality?"