Tiarma balances art and fashion

Fitri Wulandari, The Jakarta Post, Bandung, West Java

Fashion and art is like two sides of one coin for fashion designer cum artist Tiarma Dame Ruth Sirait.

Both are complimentary to each other like day and night, yin and yang.

Her work has been displayed prominently on catwalks and in art galleries.

The mix of fashion design and fine art makes Tiarma's creations quite unique, many times wild and out of the mainstream due to her boldness to explore all possibilities.

Even with this balanced philosophy, Tiarma named her fashion studio in North Bandung, Poleng. Poleng is a black-and-white checkered cloth used by the traditional Balinese dancers.

"Being in the fashion industry is tough. You face tough competition, problems with budget and human resources and many, many other things," Tiarma told The Jakarta Post recently.

"Art keeps me balanced. It maintains my spirit to work and explore as well as to train my analytical side and my imagination," she added.

One striking feature about Tiarma's designs is that they reflect her perspectives and surroundings. They might be too cynical for many people, but they also bear truths.

This gives her designs an inner strength so to speak.

"Fashion is a presentation of one's self. It is a personal statement," the words printed on her website at: www.geocities.com/FashionAvenue/Catwalk/1798.html.

Her recent work entitled Synthetic Love was currently displayed at Pameran Seni Rupa Perempuan (Women's Fine Arts Exhibition) from April 5 to April 11 at Taman Ismail Marzuki along with 48 other female artists.

Synthetic Love features a bright, thick pink synthetic fur coat and long pants, with a silvery corset made of glow-in-the dark fitted plastic, and topped off with an outrageous, hot pink feather-laden helmet, or is it a wig?

It comes with a heart-shaped fur bag and clear plastic water- hose gloves, creating a bizarre, imaginative design.

The sleeves, supported by a stainless steel structure, form wing-like shoulders, making the model appear like an angelic carnival dancer who stumbled into a giant vat of shocking pink paint.

"The design shows that nowadays there is hardly anyone who truly loves or gives something for nothing. Everything is fake," the 33-year-old designer explains.

The design also shows how people tend to go overboard on everything, she said.

When worn by a 180-centimeter tall model, Synthetic Love can reach 2.45 meter tall, thanks to the 20 centimeter fur-laden high heel shoes and the 45-centimeter high headgear.

Previously, Tiarma's Synthetic Love was one of the designs entered during the annual Concours International des Jeunes Createurs de Mode fashion designer competition in December 2002 in Paris.

Her 1999 Anti-Rape installation and fashion performance for Wearable Touring featured a line of sexy lingerie. Using light fabric such as chiffon to accentuates female curves and lines, sprinkled with beads and paillettes and finished with a lining of synthetic furs.

The combination creates a sexy, warm, yet sly look.

Her Anti-Rape line was very self-explanatory.

"Rape is a crime ... What women wear, does not justify rape," says Tiarma who graduated from the Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB) after majoring in textile design in 1994 and the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT) for fashion design in 1997.

Exploration is another strong feature of Tiarma's designs. While it is easy to pinpoint a fashion designer's signature, Tiarma's designs are so varied from contemporary to eccentric to ethnic, that it is often hard to spot her.

"I think it is too early for a young designer to settle on one certain style or design. Such a waste. They should explore as much as they can," the energetic designer remarked.

Fabric used in her designs also reflects her adventurous spirit. From lycra to fiber to fur and plastic. Tiarma's designs try out many new things.

Before starting her work as a independent designer, the daughter of German and Batak parents had been working as an intern in several garment companies in Germany, Austria and Australia.

As one of top 10 during a Fashion Designer Competition in 1997 (LPM) organized by women's magazine Femina, she marked her debut in the fashion industry.

While many of Tiarma's creations often tend toward her artsy, eccentric side, as a fashion designer, she also provides ready-to-wear designs to meet market demands.

Most of her ready-to-wear lines are have a 70's and 80's retro look. But, it still goes with the philosophy that fashion is a personal statement.

One style, one individual is the motto of her Poleng Studio. Poleng provides fashion design according to one personal character.

Her educational background in textile design expanded her exploration to design traditional cloth into modern designs.

Tiarma's design on Batik Indramayu received many kudos during the Klondike Days 2000 fashion show in Edmonton, Canada.

At present, Tiarma is preparing her future fashion performance. Taking local versus global theme, the performance expresses her growing concern over the strong domination of global culture over local.

"When we looked at traditional clothing, we questioned whether they would become a part of history, as many teenagers are reluctant to wear them," Tiarma explained.

For the event, Tiarma is preparing around 40 Barbie dolls to be dressed in traditional costumes from Asian countries as a representation of local culture.

It will be accompanied by a human fashion show to represent the global culture.

"I make my protests through fashion," she says with a chuckle.