Thin is in for contemporary Indonesian models

By Dini S. Djalal

JAKARTA (JP): Two models on a Jakarta catwalk, wrapped in slinky slips, are taking a bow. One, a full-figured twenty- something-year-old, wears a confident smile as she wiggles past agape admirers. Her colleague, barely out of her teens, struggles to keep her dress from falling off her tiny frame. A woman in the audience whispers, "That girl looks like you can break her bones like a twig! Thin may be in, but that just looks unhealthy."

But as the 90s waif phenomenon demonstrates, scrawniness sells -- at least for the dieting public. Kate Moss may have gained a few pounds on her hips since she burst on the scene as the Calvin Klein clotheshanger, but a glance at the modeling world's current supernovas -- six-foot Stella Tennant, rail-thin Shalom Harlow and Kirsty Hume -- prove the power of lanky limbs. "Brooke Shields in the 1980s was never as thin as Kate Moss. Even male models now are thinner too," said photographer Junarta Taufiq.

The emaciated look has been adopted not only by models, but by retailers. The collections of recent seasons show a major shift in proportions, as designers translate the supermodel uniform -- shrunken T-shirts, pencil-thin pants, see-through slips -- onto the catwalk and into the stores. Spending-spree times for the underweight, but slim pickings for hearty eaters.

Some designers say that models are now thinner because they are also younger. "I never had any problems fitting models before. Now, even size small doesn't fit some of these girls because their bodies are not developed. The clothes just fall off their skinny bodies," says designer Ghea Panggabean.

But now, Indonesian models being thinner is also a sign of changing times. "Models are basically presenters of clothes, not individuality. And the trend now is for slimmer clothes," said Junarta. As a photographer, Junarta admits that he prefers models with "good proportions". Junarta said: "Thin is definitely better than plump."

Unless you're a model who has to diet to stay thin, most models are naturally thin. But for those prone to weight gain, there are many ways to keep off the fat. The stereotype of the chain-smoking model is no myth. "Models smoke so they can avoid snacking," says 26-year-old Luna, a model-turned-actress.

Exercise regimes are a way of life for professionals, but some weight loss tactics are less conventional. Those desperate for slimmer thighs often turn to an acupuncturist. "Naturalist" Doctor Hembing, who uses "herbalist" science to shed fat off of insecure models, is a favorite.

With these less painful methods of weight loss, anorexia has yet to hit the model community -- at least not conspicuously. Models deny that their peers are anorexic, although designers murmur that some girls are too thin for their own good.

Bulimia is another matter. Extreme bulimics -- excessive bingers who vomit their feasts -- aren't acknowledged, but mild binges and crash diets seem to be an accepted lifestyle.

Even the thinnest models say they eat less before a show. "For the general public, we may be thin. But for models, the standards are different," says wafer-thin Luna. "I usually gain weight when I travel overseas, then diet when I return," she says. Luna explains that for catwalk models, their bodies are their most important assets. "Even if you don't have a pretty face, you can make yourself look better with nice hair and better clothes. But a good body is essential," she says.

Luna says the pressure to stay thin is worse for new models. She herself admits she was much thinner when she first started modeling. "The new girls are really thin because not only are they young, but they also try hard to look thinner so they can get in the shows. Once the designers like them, they can relax. But a lot of them are scared they won't be used," she says.

Reminders that a few extra pounds mean fewer jobs are ever present, from designers, show coordinators, and fellow models. "We say to each other sometimes, 'Hey, you're getting fat,'" says Luna. Santi, a 22-year-old veteran of the catwalk, confirms that, "Designers often say, don't get fat." A favorite of designers, Santi doesn't worry about jobs or her weight. "The constant shows keep off the weight," she says.

Yet the standard for thinness is less strict for those who have Caucasian faces. "It's easier for Indo (half-Indonesian, half-Caucasian). They don't have to make an effort to get jobs. Even if they have fat legs, they get catwalk jobs, because they can wear evening dresses that hide their legs," says Luna.

Veteran model Okky Asokawati, who now heads a modeling school and agency, agrees that Eurasian models now dominate the industry. "Look at all the ads. The models are all white and tall, with sharp noses. In my day, darker faces were more popular," she says.

It's these "Indonesian look" models who are struggling to compete. "Modeling is hard work. If you don't look good, designers won't use you anymore. There are always others," admits designer Ghea Panggabean.

Ghea says her criticism is strictly business. "Models sell products. They should have good bodies, good skin and nice hair because they sell our clothes," says Ghea.

It's all about the market, agrees batik designer Iwan Tirta. Designers with a younger market target prefer thinner models, but Iwan himself needs fuller-figure models. "My clients can't identify with these thin girls," he says. Iwan adds that when the models are too thin, "their thinness creeps onto their faces so they look old. They may think they look good, but I don't."

The problem in Indonesia, says Ghea, is not thin models, but unprofessional models. "Thin doesn't have to look unhealthy. In America and Europe, models really take care of themselves. They don't snack, they don't eat bad foods. Here the models are pretty and thin, but flabby," says Ghea. Ghea differentiates between the professional models and those who aren't so disciplined. "Look at Okky, Vera, and Wiwid. When they're working, they don't go out late at night, so they don't look tired. They take care of themselves," she says.

Okky Asokawati agrees that the problem with Indonesian models is lack of professionalism. They're thin, she says, but shapelessly thin. "When I see foreign models, they're thin, but with muscle. Our models should improve their professionalism, otherwise they can't compete with foreign models," she says. Okky notes that the peak of her modeling years coincided with the heyday of Indonesian designers. Now that international-name boutiques have flooded the market, Indonesian designers, and consequently Indonesian models, are stepping down.

This second-class slot won't improve unless the slack attitude, of both models and the industry in general, improves, says Ghea Panggabean. "Indonesian culture is quite understanding. In Europe, the agencies would scream at the girls if they start looking terrible. Maybe we need the same thing here in Indonesia," she says. Ghea apologizes if her comments may be too harsh, but continues her deadpan advice, "It's a tough world, but it's the truth."