The wonders of Thai food served up at Grand Hyatt

The wonders of Thai food served up at Grand Hyatt

There is good news for connoisseurs of fine Eastern cuisine,
tired of Jakarta's local fare. Grand Hyatt Jakarta's Grand Cafe
is promoting Thai food, serving an array of authentic Thai food
prepared by guest chefs from Grand Hyatt Bangkok, led by
executive chef Mrs. Sirilak Lekkwan.

For Rp 52,500 ++ (US$21.50 ++) per person, one can enjoy this
sharply flavored and nutritious cuisine at its authentic finest.

It combines the best of several Eastern cuisines, the oriental
bite of Szechuan Chinese, the tropical flavor of Malaysian, the
creamy coconut sauces of southern Indian and the aromatic spices
of Arabian food, and fresh ingredients such as fresh coriander,
fresh basil, lemon grass, mint, garlic, chilies, onions, shallots
and citrus leaves. The result is like a cuisine minceur of the
Orient, with small portions of lean meat, poultry and seafood,
served with plenty of fresh vegetables and salads.

While it's not customary in Thailand to have starters at meal
times, the Thai people are inveterate snackers. At parties or
celebrations, much of the food served is snack food with piquant
sauces bound to tickle one's palate.

For those wanting to start with cold snacks, the selections
abound. Worth trying are the Yam Nua (Spicy Beef Salad), Yam Pla
Muet (Spicy Squid Salad), Som Tham Kalam Plee (Cabbage Salad) and
Chicken Glass-Noodle Salad. Made from mung-bean flour, glass
noodles are also referred to as cellophane noodles or bean
vermicelli and make for a particularly light and refreshing
appetizer. The dish combines diced raw onions, shallots, chili,
deveined shrimps and minced lean chicken with a delightful sugar-
and-vinegar based sauce with sliced chili, garlic, coriander
leaves, fish sauce and a dash of lemon juice.

The Scallop, Grapefruit and Avocado Salad doesn't fare so
well. The scallops, with a tofu-like texture, are too big and
tend to be dry and tough at the edges. They would have been
better paired with sweet-tasting fruits such as mandarin oranges
or cantaloupes because the grapefruit is too bitter-sour, failing
to compensate for the scallops' lack of softness.

Among the cold, fried dish varieties is the famous Tod Mien
Pla (Fish Fritters with Chili Sauce). Originally very spicy, the
fish fritters, on scrutiny, are only mildly spicy and, again, a
wee bit tough. This dish would have been ordinary, were it not
for the wonderful Nam Prik (chili-garlic sauce) accompaniment.

In fact, Nam Prik, with its numerous varieties, is as integral
to Thai food as fresh sambal (chili sauce) to Indonesian food.
Used as condiments or to add spice to noodles and rice, no
traditional Thai meal would be complete without it. A liberal
splashing of Nam Prik can go surprisingly far in remedying less-
than-perfect dishes.

While the popular Chicken in Pandan Leaves is missing, there
is Gai Daed Diew (Dried Chicken) to compensate. Fashioned like
chicken wings, it is simply delicious, especially when dipped in
its sweet-and-sour sauce.

For those favoring warm appetizers, try the savory Thai Beef
Salad or the Thai Chicken Salad, cooked and served on the spot by
a smiling lady in traditional Thai costume. With the chicken
salad being the lighter option, lean minced chicken is stir fried
in oil and vinegar with diced raw onions, shallots, chili,
coriander, bai horapa (Thai basil) and mint, served warm on
individual plates.

While most of the salad's ingredients are obtained locally,
some of the finer ingredients -- such as coriander -- have been
flown in from Thailand. Like Nam Prik, fresh coriander is
indispensable. Other than to flavor stir-fried dishes, it is
found in curries and sauces and used as a garnish on practically
everything.

Those who prefer soup should be forewarned. The queen of Thai
soups, Tom Yam Goong (Spicy Prawn Soup), is devoid of the biting
spiciness it is famous for. While generous in its champignon and
prawn contents, it is both too tangy and too salty from too much
citrus ingredients, lacking the heartiness of most Tom Yam Goong
found on the streets of Bangkok.

Another disappointing dish is the famous Phad Thai Kang (Thai
Fried Rice Noodles). A signature dish at Thai restaurants around
the world and a popular midday snack in Thailand, this version is
rather bland, with the noodles far too large and too thick,
making it more of an ordeal than a delight to savor. Personally,
I would have preferred more garlic or shallots and perhaps a tad
more sprinkling of sugar and lemon.

But, take heart, as the Khao Phad Maem (Thai Fried Rice with
Mixed Vegetables) is simply ambrosial -- light, with just a hint
of pineapple. Combined with (Phad Pak Ruanmitr (Mixed
Vegetables), a mixture of corn, black mushrooms, broccoli,
carrots and green beans stir-fried in oyster sauce, they must
qualify as one of the healthiest and tastiest meal imaginable.

The main courses are generally excellent and adequately
represent the Thai gastronomic repertoire. The curries served are
mostly of the spicy, sweet and red variety. The Gaeng Phed Ped
Yang (Roast Duck in Red Curry) tops the lot. The duck is so
succulent and the curry -- attractively garnished with grapes and
baby tomatoes -- is exceptionally fragrant.

The Gaeng Karge Kung (Lamb in Yellow Curry) and Sliced Beef in
Thick Red Curry are also exquisite, suggesting a delicately
proportioned combination of coconut milk and aromatic
ingredients. One of the wonders of Thai curries is its ability to
appear and taste full-bodied, yet remain somewhat light in the
stomach.

Even though the only Thai dessert available is the Sakhoo
Cantaloupe (Sago and Cantaloupe in Iced Coconut Milk), the Grand
Cafe still retains its standard dessert selection of Western
favorites. Similarly, the traditional buffet menu of
sushi/sashimi, roast lamb and beef, and steamed prawns with
assorted sauces is available for those who suddenly decide that
they have had enough of Thai food.

The Thai food promotion is on until March 4.

-- Epicurus