The wonders of Thai food served up at Grand Hyatt

There is good news for connoisseurs of fine Eastern cuisine, tired of Jakarta's local fare. Grand Hyatt Jakarta's Grand Cafe is promoting Thai food, serving an array of authentic Thai food prepared by guest chefs from Grand Hyatt Bangkok, led by executive chef Mrs. Sirilak Lekkwan.

For Rp 52,500 ++ (US$21.50 ++) per person, one can enjoy this sharply flavored and nutritious cuisine at its authentic finest.

It combines the best of several Eastern cuisines, the oriental bite of Szechuan Chinese, the tropical flavor of Malaysian, the creamy coconut sauces of southern Indian and the aromatic spices of Arabian food, and fresh ingredients such as fresh coriander, fresh basil, lemon grass, mint, garlic, chilies, onions, shallots and citrus leaves. The result is like a cuisine minceur of the Orient, with small portions of lean meat, poultry and seafood, served with plenty of fresh vegetables and salads.

While it's not customary in Thailand to have starters at meal times, the Thai people are inveterate snackers. At parties or celebrations, much of the food served is snack food with piquant sauces bound to tickle one's palate.

For those wanting to start with cold snacks, the selections abound. Worth trying are the Yam Nua (Spicy Beef Salad), Yam Pla Muet (Spicy Squid Salad), Som Tham Kalam Plee (Cabbage Salad) and Chicken Glass-Noodle Salad. Made from mung-bean flour, glass noodles are also referred to as cellophane noodles or bean vermicelli and make for a particularly light and refreshing appetizer. The dish combines diced raw onions, shallots, chili, deveined shrimps and minced lean chicken with a delightful sugar- and-vinegar based sauce with sliced chili, garlic, coriander leaves, fish sauce and a dash of lemon juice.

The Scallop, Grapefruit and Avocado Salad doesn't fare so well. The scallops, with a tofu-like texture, are too big and tend to be dry and tough at the edges. They would have been better paired with sweet-tasting fruits such as mandarin oranges or cantaloupes because the grapefruit is too bitter-sour, failing to compensate for the scallops' lack of softness.

Among the cold, fried dish varieties is the famous Tod Mien Pla (Fish Fritters with Chili Sauce). Originally very spicy, the fish fritters, on scrutiny, are only mildly spicy and, again, a wee bit tough. This dish would have been ordinary, were it not for the wonderful Nam Prik (chili-garlic sauce) accompaniment.

In fact, Nam Prik, with its numerous varieties, is as integral to Thai food as fresh sambal (chili sauce) to Indonesian food. Used as condiments or to add spice to noodles and rice, no traditional Thai meal would be complete without it. A liberal splashing of Nam Prik can go surprisingly far in remedying less- than-perfect dishes.

While the popular Chicken in Pandan Leaves is missing, there is Gai Daed Diew (Dried Chicken) to compensate. Fashioned like chicken wings, it is simply delicious, especially when dipped in its sweet-and-sour sauce.

For those favoring warm appetizers, try the savory Thai Beef Salad or the Thai Chicken Salad, cooked and served on the spot by a smiling lady in traditional Thai costume. With the chicken salad being the lighter option, lean minced chicken is stir fried in oil and vinegar with diced raw onions, shallots, chili, coriander, bai horapa (Thai basil) and mint, served warm on individual plates.

While most of the salad's ingredients are obtained locally, some of the finer ingredients -- such as coriander -- have been flown in from Thailand. Like Nam Prik, fresh coriander is indispensable. Other than to flavor stir-fried dishes, it is found in curries and sauces and used as a garnish on practically everything.

Those who prefer soup should be forewarned. The queen of Thai soups, Tom Yam Goong (Spicy Prawn Soup), is devoid of the biting spiciness it is famous for. While generous in its champignon and prawn contents, it is both too tangy and too salty from too much citrus ingredients, lacking the heartiness of most Tom Yam Goong found on the streets of Bangkok.

Another disappointing dish is the famous Phad Thai Kang (Thai Fried Rice Noodles). A signature dish at Thai restaurants around the world and a popular midday snack in Thailand, this version is rather bland, with the noodles far too large and too thick, making it more of an ordeal than a delight to savor. Personally, I would have preferred more garlic or shallots and perhaps a tad more sprinkling of sugar and lemon.

But, take heart, as the Khao Phad Maem (Thai Fried Rice with Mixed Vegetables) is simply ambrosial -- light, with just a hint of pineapple. Combined with (Phad Pak Ruanmitr (Mixed Vegetables), a mixture of corn, black mushrooms, broccoli, carrots and green beans stir-fried in oyster sauce, they must qualify as one of the healthiest and tastiest meal imaginable.

The main courses are generally excellent and adequately represent the Thai gastronomic repertoire. The curries served are mostly of the spicy, sweet and red variety. The Gaeng Phed Ped Yang (Roast Duck in Red Curry) tops the lot. The duck is so succulent and the curry -- attractively garnished with grapes and baby tomatoes -- is exceptionally fragrant.

The Gaeng Karge Kung (Lamb in Yellow Curry) and Sliced Beef in Thick Red Curry are also exquisite, suggesting a delicately proportioned combination of coconut milk and aromatic ingredients. One of the wonders of Thai curries is its ability to appear and taste full-bodied, yet remain somewhat light in the stomach.

Even though the only Thai dessert available is the Sakhoo Cantaloupe (Sago and Cantaloupe in Iced Coconut Milk), the Grand Cafe still retains its standard dessert selection of Western favorites. Similarly, the traditional buffet menu of sushi/sashimi, roast lamb and beef, and steamed prawns with assorted sauces is available for those who suddenly decide that they have had enough of Thai food.

The Thai food promotion is on until March 4.

-- Epicurus