The wine flows at intimate Vino Vino

The wine flows at intimate Vino Vino

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

Wine, wine and more wine. No, I'm not referring to Her Majesty's
loyal subjects from Down Under (who reportedly "wine" even more
than the Poms). But rather the fact that Jakarta seems to be
chock-a-block at the present time with wine bars.

But that's not necessarily a bad thing (especially when one's
gluttony for all things alcoholic is being bankrolled by The
Jakarta Post!).

There was a time, however, when things were different, and
this reviewer wouldn't be seen dead in such venues, associated as
they were in his mind with nouveau riche vulgarity, pompous boors
and large, well-nigh insurmountable bills.

But times change, and as one grows longer in the tooth comfort
and ease begin to take on a new and deeper significance (and,
dare we say it, perhaps one also becomes somewhat more pompous
and boorish into the bargain).

Which all begs the question, where is one going to find this
requisite degree of comfort and ease? Well, you could do a lot
worse than the friendly and intimate wine bar and restaurant
known as Vino Vino, which you'll find ensconced sensuously and
invitingly on the ground floor, suite 101 of Plaza DM in Jl.
Jend. Sudirman Kav. 2S (Tel. 5203921).

Hours: 11:30 until 1 a.m. seven days a week, although don't be
surprised if they ask you to vacate the premises a bit earlier on
a quiet night.

What's it got?: Lots and lots of wine, obviously. In fact, the
cellar is one of the biggest and best I've seen in the big smoke,
which, given the competition, is not all that much of a
recommendation, mind you. And there's also a well-stocked bar to
keep the non-wine drinking contingent amused.

Interesting little bar trick employed here in the form of
providing tiny fried, salted fish as bar snacks for the punters.
Just the thing for raising up a thirst and keeping the till
ringing.

Bill, please: As with all such establishments, you'll come
brandishing your gold card if you know what's good for you.
Otherwise you'll need a Weimar Republic-issue barrowload full of
cash.

As for liquid refreshment, a bottle of Cullen Chardonnay from
Australia will see you for Rp 760,000, while a Wolf Blass Yellow
Label Cabernet Sauvignon (also from down under) can be yours for
only Rp 475,000. Meanwhile, from France, a Pierre Dourthe
Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon is good value at Rp 225,000 (or
Rp 45,000 a glass). However, for me the best bargain on offer is
the Long Mountain Chardonnay from South Africa at Rp 220,000 (or
Rp 40,000 a glass).

There's also a great selection of wines from France, Chile,
and Germany available.

As for the stronger stuff, a JW Black, Canadian Club,
Jameson's or Jack Daniels will set you back Rp 40,000.

And if you can't hack any or all of the above, a deliciously
cold glass of draft Bintang is to be had for Rp 18,000 (all
prices excluding 10 percent tax and service).

Here's lookin' at you: Unlike many of its peers in the wine
bar game, there's no way you could possibly describe Vino Vino as
loud, brash or even, to use that awful Americanism, kitschy.
Rather, this is a place that is understated throughout and tends
towards the comforting and soothing end of the scale as opposed
to the stimulating.

Only open since last November, it sits right in front of you
as you enter Plaza DM, not so much like a tiger ready to pounce
as a cat about to slink and purr its way round your ankles.

The sense of femininity increases as you walk through the
vestibule into the bar to be greeted by dimmed lights, deep-pile
carpeted pillars and the all-pervading color of black set off by
white and red. The style seems to come somewhere between Art Deco
and New Wave, with strong lines and colors predominating, but
made eminently tolerable by the dimmed lighting, and the soft
tones and rich fabrics and upholstery of the furnishings. A place
full of contrasts, but certainly not discommoding ones.

Long and black with room for about 20 punters, the bar is
pretty traditional. Bit of a problem with the view though -- the
constant parade of cars entering the underground parking lot that
can be seen 10 meters away through the floor-to-ceiling plate
glass window would be enough to make even the most even-keeled
punter's stomach churn. Not good after a few quick ones. So, make
sure you get them to lower the bamboo screens if you don't want
to end up seeing stars instead of cars.

Outside of the bar area, Vino Vino is large enough, and full
of enough nooks and crannies, to go on a bit of a walkabout.
Right at the back there's a pleasant-looking restaurant while as
you leave the bar on your right, there's a comfy little lounge
replete with sofas and bookshelves (with real, actually
interesting books). So comfy, in fact, that after a liberal
helping of the Long Mountain Chardonnay, yours truly was
beginning to feel distinctly dozy. And despite the profuse
assurances from the bar manager that mi casa es su casa and that
the aim of the game is to make the punter feel completely at
home, one nevertheless gets the distinct impression that falling
asleep, or any other form of uncouth behavior, would go down
something akin to a ton of bricks.

And therein lies one of the great unfathomable of wine bars --
they go out of their way to make you exceedingly comfy, drip feed
you beverages that are guaranteed even in quite moderate
quantities to send you straight into a profound stupor, and
nevertheless insist on kicking you out promptly at locking up
time. Shouldn't be allowed!

But thankfully, things didn't get to that stage. Not this time
at any rate.

Verdict: Vino Vino has definitely got a whole lot going for
it. Friendly and helpful staff, great interior design and lots of
dark corners. Just the place to bring your date or go for a few
quiet ones after work. Strongly recommended!