The wine flows at intimate Vino Vino

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

Wine, wine and more wine. No, I'm not referring to Her Majesty's loyal subjects from Down Under (who reportedly "wine" even more than the Poms). But rather the fact that Jakarta seems to be chock-a-block at the present time with wine bars.

But that's not necessarily a bad thing (especially when one's gluttony for all things alcoholic is being bankrolled by The Jakarta Post!).

There was a time, however, when things were different, and this reviewer wouldn't be seen dead in such venues, associated as they were in his mind with nouveau riche vulgarity, pompous boors and large, well-nigh insurmountable bills.

But times change, and as one grows longer in the tooth comfort and ease begin to take on a new and deeper significance (and, dare we say it, perhaps one also becomes somewhat more pompous and boorish into the bargain).

Which all begs the question, where is one going to find this requisite degree of comfort and ease? Well, you could do a lot worse than the friendly and intimate wine bar and restaurant known as Vino Vino, which you'll find ensconced sensuously and invitingly on the ground floor, suite 101 of Plaza DM in Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 2S (Tel. 5203921).

Hours: 11:30 until 1 a.m. seven days a week, although don't be surprised if they ask you to vacate the premises a bit earlier on a quiet night.

What's it got?: Lots and lots of wine, obviously. In fact, the cellar is one of the biggest and best I've seen in the big smoke, which, given the competition, is not all that much of a recommendation, mind you. And there's also a well-stocked bar to keep the non-wine drinking contingent amused.

Interesting little bar trick employed here in the form of providing tiny fried, salted fish as bar snacks for the punters. Just the thing for raising up a thirst and keeping the till ringing.

Bill, please: As with all such establishments, you'll come brandishing your gold card if you know what's good for you. Otherwise you'll need a Weimar Republic-issue barrowload full of cash.

As for liquid refreshment, a bottle of Cullen Chardonnay from Australia will see you for Rp 760,000, while a Wolf Blass Yellow Label Cabernet Sauvignon (also from down under) can be yours for only Rp 475,000. Meanwhile, from France, a Pierre Dourthe Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon is good value at Rp 225,000 (or Rp 45,000 a glass). However, for me the best bargain on offer is the Long Mountain Chardonnay from South Africa at Rp 220,000 (or Rp 40,000 a glass).

There's also a great selection of wines from France, Chile, and Germany available.

As for the stronger stuff, a JW Black, Canadian Club, Jameson's or Jack Daniels will set you back Rp 40,000.

And if you can't hack any or all of the above, a deliciously cold glass of draft Bintang is to be had for Rp 18,000 (all prices excluding 10 percent tax and service).

Here's lookin' at you: Unlike many of its peers in the wine bar game, there's no way you could possibly describe Vino Vino as loud, brash or even, to use that awful Americanism, kitschy. Rather, this is a place that is understated throughout and tends towards the comforting and soothing end of the scale as opposed to the stimulating.

Only open since last November, it sits right in front of you as you enter Plaza DM, not so much like a tiger ready to pounce as a cat about to slink and purr its way round your ankles.

The sense of femininity increases as you walk through the vestibule into the bar to be greeted by dimmed lights, deep-pile carpeted pillars and the all-pervading color of black set off by white and red. The style seems to come somewhere between Art Deco and New Wave, with strong lines and colors predominating, but made eminently tolerable by the dimmed lighting, and the soft tones and rich fabrics and upholstery of the furnishings. A place full of contrasts, but certainly not discommoding ones.

Long and black with room for about 20 punters, the bar is pretty traditional. Bit of a problem with the view though -- the constant parade of cars entering the underground parking lot that can be seen 10 meters away through the floor-to-ceiling plate glass window would be enough to make even the most even-keeled punter's stomach churn. Not good after a few quick ones. So, make sure you get them to lower the bamboo screens if you don't want to end up seeing stars instead of cars.

Outside of the bar area, Vino Vino is large enough, and full of enough nooks and crannies, to go on a bit of a walkabout. Right at the back there's a pleasant-looking restaurant while as you leave the bar on your right, there's a comfy little lounge replete with sofas and bookshelves (with real, actually interesting books). So comfy, in fact, that after a liberal helping of the Long Mountain Chardonnay, yours truly was beginning to feel distinctly dozy. And despite the profuse assurances from the bar manager that mi casa es su casa and that the aim of the game is to make the punter feel completely at home, one nevertheless gets the distinct impression that falling asleep, or any other form of uncouth behavior, would go down something akin to a ton of bricks.

And therein lies one of the great unfathomable of wine bars -- they go out of their way to make you exceedingly comfy, drip feed you beverages that are guaranteed even in quite moderate quantities to send you straight into a profound stupor, and nevertheless insist on kicking you out promptly at locking up time. Shouldn't be allowed!

But thankfully, things didn't get to that stage. Not this time at any rate.

Verdict: Vino Vino has definitely got a whole lot going for it. Friendly and helpful staff, great interior design and lots of dark corners. Just the place to bring your date or go for a few quiet ones after work. Strongly recommended!