Fri, 16 Feb 2001

The 'jilbab' a personal choice for Muslim women

JAKARTA (JP): It's not a case of everybody's doing it, and some Muslim women who make the intensely personal decision to wear the jilbab (head scarf) must deal with negative reactions from those around them, including members of their family.

Several woman who have made Muslim fashion part of their daily lives tell their stories.

Tika, 40, a married private company employee. The mother of two began wearing Muslim attire several months ago.

It was a hard decision, and it took a long time to make. I had a lot of things to consider, like my work and other issues, even things like the fact I would have to get rid of a lot of my clothes. Would I feel hot wearing the clothes, or unsure of myself? But all of those fears were lost when I decided to make the decision on the 10th day of the Ramadhan fasting month last year. I dreamed I was wearing the jilbab, and I was no longer hesitant about wearing the clothes.

My husband and my mother, who also wears the jilbab, were happy. Some others thought I was only doing it for the fasting month, and made comments like "When are you going to take it off? What, have you become bald?" But I knew they were only joking.

What I've found with the clothes is that it's a bit hard because my height (153 cms) and figure don't fit the usual sizes, and I have to have things adjusted. So I've been going to a seamstress for the clothes, using examples from magazines, but I'm buying the head scarves gradually because they are quite costly. I get my scarves in Tanah Abang Market. There is a lot of choice and the prices are reasonable. I would never go to a boutique, because they're too expensive.

For work, I usually wear pants because I commute to work on the bus, so it's easier getting on and off the vehicle.

Neno Warisman, 36, an actress and singer who now devotes most of her time to a foundation for the aged. She has three children.

I started wearing the jilbab in 1990. I had started thinking about the best way to better myself and it was a process of about two years before I made the decision. I felt many people didn't believe in me, and some of them felt it was a pity because they felt I was a talented actress and that I had lost my chance. Even members of my family regretted it because they thought my career was starting to take off. And others thought I must have suffered some kind of trauma -- why was I doing it?

Then it was hard, but once you've passed that it's easier.

But there are two sides to the development of fashion. Many women are wearing Islamic dress, so it has become common. And many are using my style. But there is still a lot of misunderstanding about the style and what follows religious dictates. And I also see that a lot of women who wear Muslim attire haven't really changed to a devout way of thinking.

Second, almost all of the Muslim clothes sold in the market are for parties, receptions. So it's difficult for women other than young women to find clothes which are right. I've been invited to be on different juries for Muslim fashion shows, and the majority of clothes are for parties. And the clothes we have are the really luxurious for the rich, and the really ugly for the rest.

I'm happy that women are wearing Muslim fashions, even if they are mixing jilbab with baggy pants, but we have to go further than just showing off. Wearing Muslim attire is not just about a show of faith for others, it's also from inside. But everybody has their own path.

Laras Suryo, the 51-year-old newly retired head of general affairs division from the Ministry of Manpower and Transmigration and a mother of four.

I've been wearing it for years, probably for the past 10 years. I've never felt that wearing Muslim attire hampers my desire to look fashionable. There are stores selling good-quality and trendy Muslim outfits so there is practically no problem for people in finding them, however the prices are quite expensive. Maybe the problem is finding reasonably priced garments with motifs that can be mixed and matched with other suits.

Rita, 42, a mother of four, she embraced Islam two years after marrying her Indonesian husband and began wearing the jilbab five years later.

I've been wearing it for 15 years. When you make that sort of choice, it is, of course, very monumental and very personal. I did not come from a society that "makes", for the want of a better word, its women cover up from the time they are young girls. I realized I would suddenly be putting myself out in the forefront because there were so few covered Muslim women in my area (Sydney) but I was already comfortable with the decision.

Fashion-wise, it was easier in Sydney as I could find my size over there. Here, I go to a seamstress. But I think I would have to do that anyway because what I see of the fashion here for Muslim women is, while flattering I guess, not suitable to go to the store in. It's either meters and meters of material in an outfit or it has see-through parts. I don't like the way designers here create most of the Muslim outfits. They're either all fluffy like Cinderella or you look like you're about to step into a board meeting.

The designers should be exploring who they are designing for, not just as women going to a party or meeting, and have millions of rupiah to spend, but as people who have to go shopping, ferry the kids around, exercise at the club or wherever, make a spur-of the-moment-decision to go out for nasi goreng with the family, a night out with hubby, whatever. Just don't make us look like Muslim Barbie dolls.

Ida Royani, 53, former actress and now a designer of Muslim fashion. She is the mother of seven children.

I've worn the jilbab since 1978, when it was still unusual here, what's more for young women. I used to wear crazy clothes, like hot pants which were really nothing more than panties. But then I started to study the Koran, and I realized the consequences of not following Islamic teachings.

I always liked fashion, and I had always designed my own clothes, so I think it was like Allah gave me a new path in life. I wanted Muslim fashion to develop, not just here but abroad. Now you can see a lot more women wearing the clothes.

You have the whole range available -- expensive, reasonable and inexpensive. I don't see any problem with people buying expensive clothes, as long as they are following the other obligations in Islam, like aiding the poor. I make expensive clothes, and people know me for that. The most costly outfit I make is about Rp 4 million. (brc/lup)