Sun, 13 May 2001

Thai atmosphere and flavors at Sukhothai

JAKARTA (JP): The first thing you notice when you enter the Sukhothai restaurant at Sheraton Media hotel is its distinct ambience. Then the spices on display tempt you to discover the original flavors of Thai cuisine.

The restaurant is located adjacent to the hotel's swimming pool, where you can hear children's laughter and catch a glimpse of people relaxing and taking in the invigorating sun.

Escorted by a hostess at the restaurant, visitors can view the original grains and spices, exotically arranged on display in the entrance hall. They serve as a gesture of welcome and an introduction to the cooking ingredients before the guest actually has a taste of them.

The restaurant's interior design offers quite a different atmosphere from its external surroundings. The setting offers a moderately formal and quiet ambience, embellished with Thai details: hanging carved wooden ornaments, pillows with a triangular back support and of course an elephant on every table while traditional Thai music adds weight to the atmosphere.

On to the meals. Thai cuisine uses many ingredients similar to the ones usually used in an Indonesian kitchen but sensitive taste buds would be able to tell that some of them, despite having a similar appearance, have a different taste. Thailand has a wider variety of particular herbs and spices, such as different types of basil leaves and chilies, among other things.

"Each has its own delicate flavor and color. This delicate difference will bring out distinctive scents and tastes to the final product," chef Iwan S. Utomo said.

The Thai restaurant was relaunched last week as a fine dining restaurant. With the restaurant's new position, the management are aiming to cater to businesspeople and working customers' demands for good Thai food in a conservative ambience.

"For the food, we use some local ingredients. But to maintain the original flavors and scents of each recipe, we have to buy some imported spices and herbs. We won't compromise the taste by substituting certain herbs for another," he added.

Its adherence to this principle has won the restaurant accolades. In November 2000, the Thai Embassy picked it as an "Authentic Thai Restaurant".

For the relaunching, the restaurant served Thai ice tea and its most popular soup Tom Yam Goong. This delicious and light soup is a combination of sour, hot and slightly sweet fresh prawns, accentuated by fresh scented herbs.

The main dish included three-flavored-fish, called Sam Root, which was an excellent complement to the soup. This crisp flour- coated fish went well alone or generously topped with an appetizing sweet-sour-salt sauce, just the way the restaurant served it.

Another dish was called Thai chicken curry or Kaeng Phed Gai. It was slightly sweet and spicy chicken pieces in thick coconut milk.

The meal was nicely wrapped up with Tako Ruam Mitr or sweet rice pudding with jicama (locally called bengkuang) and a cup of Pab Pim Krob or tiny morsels of flour-coated jicama in sweet coconut milk. (Maria Endah Hulupi)