Tengger's hospitality a big boost to tourism

By Marina Kaneti

MT. BROMO, East Java (JP): Freezing cold, a moon-like landscape, and clouds of lava ash: This is the impressive and unforgettable sight of remote Mt. Bromo.

Despite its height, 2,392 m, Mt. Bromo and the entire Tengger caldera are easily accessible by jeep or horse.

Apart from the impressive view from the top of Bromo, the surrounding mountain slopes impeccably planted with vegetables also attract one's attention. From the very top to the very bottom of the slopes, corn, cabbage, and potatoes form neat rows wherever the ground can be planted. Occasionally, a man or a woman working in the fields turns around and waves "Hello" to the passerby.

The Bromo-Tengger region is not only the home of active volcanoes, but also of the hospitable and friendly Tengger people. Despite the remoteness of the area, which has allowed Hinduism to remain rooted here in Muslim Java, the Tengger people are open and hospitable to strangers. Locals are seriously considering the possibility of expanding tourism in the area.

There are many reasons why people in the Tengger-Bromo region are tourism-friendly. Soil erosion endangers farming, which is the major occupation of the local population. Thus, although blessed with nutritious soil from the volcanoes, which accounts for the fairly well-off villages in the area, people have started considering other means of income.

Tourism is also deemed attractive because it might bring about the revival of ancient customs and traditions. Although many criticize the commercialization of art throughout the country, particularly in Bali, in the Tengger region tourism and commerce might provide the link between past traditions and modern times. Along with accommodation and transportation to the volcanic areas, the revival of indigenous art traditions is being discussed.

The Tengger region is known as the last abode of Hinduism on Java and because of its relative isolation, Hindu beliefs and local folklore intertwine to create a unique blend. People in the region, for instance, do not have wayang kulit performances, so typical of the rest of Java, because the god of Bromo, Gusti, would be angry. There are, however, ceremonies and offerings to the volcano gods.

A sort of Hindu Renaissance began in the 1980s when the region was officially recognized by the government for its Hindu heritage. Many Balinese priests visit the area to participate in the local festivals and ceremonial offerings and priests from the region go to Bali to exchange customs and traditions with their Balinese counterparts.

The government itself has been supportive and encouraging of the revival of cultural traditions. Recently, for example, it arranged a tournament in Malang for a best traditional wedding ceremony, a model for wedding ceremonies in the region. The government also provided funds for the erection of the Sanduro temple, the biggest Hindu temple in the area.

The beauty and mystery of the Bromo-Tengger region explain why the Tengger people are so attached to their land and are so fervent about their culture and beliefs. Ibu Yoschi, who finds this place feels more like home to her than her native Bremen in Germany, shares the concerns and hopes of the local people.

Apart from Yoschi's inn in Ngadisari, 8 km from Bromo, which attracts scores of tourists, Ibu Yoschi has many other plans to support the development of the region. Formerly a music teacher and a diligent student of gamelan music, Ibu Yoschi is thinking about establishing a local gamelan orchestra.

"There is something about this place that makes you creative and full of inspiration," she says. "If you take the days as they are, anything can be possible and your dreams and hopes can come true."

In fact, the only thing that one can wish for after visiting the Bromo-Tengger region is to be immersed in its inspiring atmosphere and impressive sights just one more time.