Tenganese strive to maintain traditional way of life
By Murdani Usman
CANDI DASA, Karang Asem, East Bali (JP): Located in a mountainous valley, Tenganan village is home to Bali's oldest pre-Hindu community whose traditions, way of life and religious customs differ from the modern Balinese.
The village is situated around 17 kilometers east of Karangasem.
They are often called the Bali Aga, which literally means the innermost mountain people or ancient Balinese. They have protected their territory, community and culture from the influence of the Javanese Hindus of the Majapahit kingdom.
The Tenganese still practice their archaic and exclusive traditions, rituals and follow their own customary laws called awig-awig which regulates all aspects of religious and societal life.
These people adopt very strict marriage customs, prohibiting the village members from marrying outsiders. They also retain the village layout, in which it is divided into different sections for its members, according to their social hierarchy.
They believe the laws were granted to them by the god Indra.
The origin of the Tenganese people is unknown. According to local legend, the villagers were the descendants of Rsi Markandya (a high Hindu-Buddhist priest) from East Java's Mountain of Aga. The priest and his followers later settled in Bali island and occupied the current Tenganan village territory. Yet, there are many other versions in legends and myths regarding the origin of Tenganan people.
A recent genetic study of the blood of Asians revealed that seventeen people from Tenganan have a very rare blood configuration. A similar blood configuration was also found in people in a village in southern India.
Up to the present, the Tenganese people have been trying hard to maintain their "purity." Only those who were born within the walls of the village are allowed to become full members of this exclusive community and take part in various rituals and take the village's social and religious duties.
People who are physically and mentally disabled are not allowed to stay in the village or take any social responsibilities.
This and certain rituals peculiar to both villages suggest the Tenganese culture had an Indian origin.
The Tenganese rituals are very unique. One of them is ritual battles in which male members fight using thorny pandanus leaves. The sacred ritual is usually a part of major ceremonies.
Dozens of male members take part in a two-day ritual battle. They hit each other's body with the thorny pandanus leaves. Some of them are badly wounded, but after applying traditional herbs and oil, believed to be potent medicine from the "upper" world, the injured feel no pain.